Hey everyone, I'm looking for some help.

I recently had an issue with my fuel pump and it kept blowing and I had to replace it. So eventually what happened is a P1443 engine code came up. I recently took the vehicle to a local franchise mechanic shop and they replaced a hose, which didn't fix the issue and so I brought it back, and now they replaced the vapor canister purge valve. And just to side track for a second they charged me $262.50 for the vapor canister purge valve, and I've emailed corporate because yeah that's unacceptable for an 80-100$ part..

So now I looked under the hood of the car and the hoses they used to replaced the purge valve are like three feet longer than they need to be.

So here is what's happening now, when I drive the vehicle, each of the gears feels like it has no power at lower rpms. I haven't drove the vehicle more than 30 miles so I am not sure if the check engine light could come on again yet. Can someone help and tell me why I've now lost power at lower rpms?

 

P1443 Evaporative Emission System Control Valve (low/no flow)

EVAP system for short, it sucks the gasoline fumes out of the gas tank while driving around and burns the fumes in the engine
When driving the gas sloshes around quite a bit so lots of fumes that used to pollute the air, really bad in the summer months, but I am old so most never experienced that smell, lol

Anyway, what did you mean the fuel pump kept "blowing"?
The pump itself or just the fuse for it?

And who did the fuel pump work?

The EVAP system is connected to the gas tank which is why I ask
And if the P1443 code came up AFTER that work then it would be related to that work

The thing about OBD2 codes is that the computer has many codes for same system and even same sensor
P1440 Purge Valve Stuck Open
P1442 Evaporative Emission System Control Leak Detected
P1443 Evaporative Emission System Control Valve (low/no flow)
P1444 Evaporative Emission System Purge Flow Sensor Circuit Low Input
P1445 Purge Flow Sensor Circuit High Input
P1446 Evaporative Vacuum Solenoid Circuit

This is just a few for EVAP
Wouldn't be a bad GUESS to change purge valve but you can test it, and the vent valve, but would expect Pro Mechanics to do that not just replace something with out testing


Back to the question, yes if they have caused a vacuum leak, that can lower power at lower speeds

 

So I just want to make sure we're on the same page, Meineke which is a professional mechanic replaced the purge valve, now their work was crap and they charged me 300$ for a 100$ part, but the purge valve has been replaced.

Also, the light just came back on this morning with the same P1443 code..

Now in terms of who replaced the fuel pump, long story short my wife bought the truck and when she came to pick it up mice had eaten the fuel lines so they replaced the fuels lines and the fuel pump. What I mean by the fuel pump kept blowing is the actual pumps went into failure. I have driven this truck under 200 miles and have replaced the fuel pump 3 times.

 

so i had a low rpm when i was driving and i also put a new fuel pump in but we found out its the mass air flow sensor that went bad and it made my truck run with like no power

 

I get it but I def have a P1443 code that I have to get rid of

 

OK, simple test for EVAP system to see if its air tight
Open the hood
Remove gas cap
Get a wet/damp rag and a short hose
Wrap the rag around the hose and put hose in filler opening, hold rag in place to SEAL the tank opening
Blow into the hose
Human lungs can on generate maybe 2psi pressure so you can not blow fittings off, NEVER USE an air compressor for this test as YOU WILL blow off fittings

Tank should hold pressure, if so then "barking up the wrong tree"
If tank doesn't hold pressure then find the leak, listen for it
i.e. above the tank, the filler hose, behind the tank, under the hood, ect...................


Just a heads up for fuel pumps
Motorcraft is what you should use, stupid expensive compared to 3rd party brands, but there are more posts than I can count on having to replace 3rd party pumps repeatedly to find one that last longer than the warranty, lol

Alternators as well, been quite a few posts of having these "bad out of the box" and having to replace them 2 or 3 times to get a good on

 

Thanks, I'll try it now. I just took a couple photos and here are somethings I found interesting, I'm not sure if they are the problem or if they are a problem.

In this image both of these appear to be open, I'm not entire sure what this is called.



In this image there appear to just be something open and nothing attached to it? I'm not sure what this is for.

 

I just had a buddy come by and he took some carb cleaner and started spraying into the hoses, what he found was the "cap" is missing from the throttle body, and he also didn't know if canister witht he 2 open tops needed to be replaced.

Can I just replace the cap? Or do I need a throttle body?

 

You circled a Schrader valve in last picture, same as a tires air valve, that a fuel pressure test port, should have a cap on it same type of cap as tires air valve

The 2 open canister ports should be open but they did have vented caps on top, not sealed, its the Charcoal Canister for the EVAP system
The open ports pull in "fresh air" when the system is working

The open port on the Throttle body is a Ported Vacuum, between air cleaner and throttle plate there is ported vacuum
At idle intake vacuum is high, ported vacuum is low
When driving, as more air is pulled into the engine, ported vacuum will go up, its not much, but it will go up

The EVAP canister is connected to a vent on the top of the gas tank
In the "old days" that ported vacuum hose was just connected to Charcoal Canister and as you drove gasoline vapors would be pulled out of the gas tank, thru the charcoal filter and into the engine to be burned
But "they" start to add things to the EVAP system, Purge Valves and vent valves, and even an air pressure sensor in the gas tank to make sure EVAP was working

Every year will be slightly different as they got more and more complicated/efficient, thank goodness for emissions standards, lol

There should be a diagram on your rad support for EVAP/vacuum system

 

So one thing we did was spray carb cleaner from the end of the hose that ran into the throttle body part and the engine didn't change at all in idling. When we spray the carb cleaner in the hose it would just leak out that opening on the throttle body. If we sprayed directly into the throttle body then some of the carb cleaner got through and the engine slowed down.

When we took off the hose that went to the throttle body there was no sucking at all coming through the hose, he initially thought there was a blockage from the hose to the throttle body.

Does this make sense?. Do you believe there is an issue at the throttle body?

 

From the throttle plate to the intake valves in the head is where there is Vacuum with engine running, 18-21"

From other side of throttle plate to air cleaner is "ported" vacuum which at idle is almost 0"

Throttle body is between throttle plate and air cleaner, so any ports on it will have 0 vacuum at idle, there would be no suction, well very very little, that is correct
At higher RPMs the air rushing in thru an open throttle plate will create a suction at throttle body ports, but ain't much, often used for EVAP system

 

So the Ford dealership is recommending I replace fuel pressure regulator and the fuel filter for P1443, i'm about to lose my mind because I know that can't be right.

 

They might recommend replacing those for the Low Power issue, for sure not the P1443 issue, even newbee mechanics wouldn't suggest that

P1443 Evaporative Emission System Control Valve (low/no flow)
As said EVAP system has no connection to engine operation except it uses a SMALL bit of vacuum but not enough to effect engine