Changing Fuel Injectors - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


SOHC - 2.3L & 2.5L Lima Engines Discussions and Topics specific to the Lima 4 cylinder engines

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  #1  
Old 08-01-2006
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Changing Fuel Injectors

I've been looking all over the Internet and have not found any info on how to actually change the fuel injectors in a 2.5L Ford Ranger engine.

Has anyone performed this proceedure and is it overly difficult?

Any info would be helpful and gratefully received.
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Old 08-01-2006
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Ok...I'm not sure what I'll accomplish with this posting...BUT...FYI

I have a 1997 Ranger that HAD a 2.3L engine. At some point it was swapped out with a 2000 2.5L engine.

Now, I've been having some Fuel Injector issues of late and here is where I'm at.

CAUTION: Before you read this, clear your mind...your going to need the space...at least I have.

2.3L engines have a specific Injector Part number. They also have the Fuel Regulator and the Fuel Dampener located ON the Fuel Rail at the intake.

2.5L engines have a different Injector Part number. They also have the Fuel Regulator and Fuel Dampener located IN the Fuel Tank. This is the reason the fuel filter for a 2.5L engined Ranger has 3 tubes out of it...one is for the return flow for the regulator.

Anyway, I'm having Injector issues and I find out 2 injectors are toast. So, why not just replace the injectors?!?!?!

Well...tomorrow I'll find out what kind of injectors I'll need...2.3L injectors (if they will work in a 2.5L) or 2.5L injectors...

Since only the engine was swapped out, I am assuming that the 2.3L 1997 Fuel Rail was mated to this 2.5L engine. If this is the case then I may have been doomed from day one.

I'll let you all know!
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Old 08-01-2006
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Oh yeah, if I indeed do have a 1997 Fuel Rail and cannot upgrade the Fuel Regulator and Dampener to match the 2.5L Injectors, then I'll have to install a new Fuel Rail, Injectors, and, in the gas tank a new Sending unit with the integrate Regulator and Dampener as well as additional fuel line to provide the flow back.

Ugh. :(
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Old 08-02-2006
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Well I just ordered 4 new injectors and a new fuel regulator from Rock Auto.

Hope to get them tomorrow or Friday and put the whole thing together on Saturday.

I'll try to document with pictures and maybe we can have a nice How-To out of it.
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  #5  
Old 08-02-2006
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sorry no one helped you! i would of if i knew how! good lick with it!
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  #6  
Old 08-02-2006
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No big deal...I don't know how either...BUT...hopefully after this weekend we can all know how. :)

It will be an honor to provide a How-To if it's accepted...paying back for all the info you all have given me.
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Old 08-02-2006
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ummm, if you have the 2.3 fuel rail and injectors in there now, and only 2 of the injectors are bad, then you should just get 2 more 2.3 injectors. the 2.3 uses 14lb injectors and i beleive the 2.5 also only uses the little 14lb injectors, the only difference is where the pressure regulator and dampener are on the newer engines, and if your regulator is on the fuel rail now and you wanted to switch it to the newer fuel rail you will have to change over to the entire newer fuel system with the intank parts and all the correct lines. when it comes to things like fueling and stuff, go with what year parts are currently on the engine, like if the parts are from the 97, then get new parts that would be for the 97. the 2.3 and 2.5 are the same block and head, so mechanically they use the same injectors.
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Old 08-03-2006
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Yep, that is what I'm doing for sure. I had to wait until yesterday morning to see my truck again and verify which fuel rail I had on this truck. I also got the particular part number off of the current injectors so I could get direct replacements. However, I am replacing all 4 as these injectors have 140,000 miles on them and I don't really want to have to do this again for a while...but I will be keeping the two that work around in my shop for just such a repeat occasion.

Oddly enough, I have not been able to find anyone or anywhere that could tell me what pound'age these injectors are. Not the Ford parts guy, not the Ford mechanic, not any of the parts shops, not Rock Auto, and I can't seem to find the info online. Where did you get the info?
Rather frustrating when everyone pleads the 5th.

I'll photo-document my work and post it here. It really doesn't look like that big a deal; I'm rather looking forward to it!!!!
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Old 08-07-2006
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Injectors Changed!!!! But, like a knucklhead I didn't take any darn pictures!

However, I can easily describe the process and take some pics with nice circles and arrows to walk you through it.

Quite an easy process actually. Took 3 hours not including a few trips to the store to get various special tools (fuel line release tools and a U-joint for my ratchet).

Anyone interested?
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  #10  
Old 08-07-2006
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as for the poundage of them, what color is the top? they are all color coded, i dont remember off the top of my head what the colors are, but i know the factory 2.3 injectors are 14# injectors.
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  #11  
Old 08-08-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TireIron
as for the poundage of them, what color is the top? they are all color coded, i dont remember off the top of my head what the colors are, but i know the factory 2.3 injectors are 14# injectors.
Well where do you find this color code chart? The tops are a dark red, but the tips on the old ones are orange but on the new ones they are light blue. Also, the new ones are Borg Warners and the old ones are Denso's.
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  #12  
Old 11-28-2010
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hey wondering about how a bad injector would make my 2.3 run, i have gone threw everything, and 3 head gaskets, i did a compression check and plug, 1,2,3 were wet with raw fuel when i was turning it over, #4 was dry??, could of that been why my truck has been running so rough? thanks
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Old 11-28-2010
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Don't know about colour or poundage, but ~20 lbs/hr should be more than adequate. Fuel injectors themselves are simple to do, probably about as difficult/easy as changing sparkplugs. Common rail is simplest, basically unbolt the rail (should be 3 or 4 small bolts) and the rail and injectors come off. The rest should be pretty straight forward. Cheers

Edit: if #4 was dry, that means no fuel in the #4 hole and yes it will cause rough idling and lack of power.
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  #14  
Old 11-28-2010
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ya its 2 bolts that hold the fuel rail, love working on it, just wish i could find the true problem, fuel injectors and the ECM our the only things left i can think that could be bad that i haven't replaced already, its only got 90k on it, gone threw 2 turbo's, 3 head gaskets, and alot of time lol
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  #15  
Old 11-30-2010
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well i new injectors and ecm for laughs, end still no change.., everything on my truck has been replaced now, just to make sure im rite, the timing marks on the cam gear and oil pump gear our suppose to be facing north right??? and the crank lined up with the 'tc' mark on the timing plastic?
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Old 12-07-2010
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hey everyone i found out what it was, when i went to change the timing belt, i had held a crow bar to the timing gear so it wouldn't move, and had a breaker bar and a cheater pipe to break the bolt loose on the harmonic balancer , and cam to that i moved the part where the timing mark is on surpertin belt goes, about 2 inches counterclockwise from where it was suppose to be, so every time i thought it was timing marks were lined up, its was really about 30% before top dead center cause of rough or no idle, I Replaced the balancer and it runs so great~! good luck everyone, and thanks for your inputs
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  #17  
Old 12-14-2010
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my truck when it was turbo

YouTube - 1997 Turbo Ranger......
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