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  #1  
Old 06-02-2015
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Fuel pump replacement?

I have been having problems with my 1992 Ford Ranger Standard Cab 2.3 4 cylinder truck. After replacing several things, ICM, plug wires, coil, fuel filter it looks like my problem is that the furl pump is weak on it. What is the best way to replace it. Should I drop the tank or remove the bed and replace it from the top. I just purchased a new pump from Rock Auto a few minutes ago. I can spray starting fluid into the intake and it will run all day. The next morning though it will crank but not turn over. I replaced the fuel filter yesterday and it ran okay with a slight but normal miss once in a while. The old fuel filter looked as if it had never been changed before. That is why I am leaning toward the pump being the problem. As I say, prime it with carb spray and it will start normally and run all day. The next morning though I have to prime it again. Does this sound like a bad or going bad fuel pump? It is cheap enough that I am going to replace the pump. I guess I just need some advice on the problem and the best way to change out the pump.

I hate just parts changing but I am not a mechanic. My elderly father in law who is a long retired mechanic is. He will be helping me. He believes that it is the fuel pump.

Thanks for the help. I really appreciate it!
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Old 06-02-2015
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It doesn't sound like fuel pump, pumps just die usually, no start/no run.
Could be the check valve in the fuel pump though

A little background:
For safety reasons Ford only runs the fuel pump for 2 seconds when engine RPMs are 0
If fuel line should break the engine would stop and so would the fuel pump, so it would prevent a fire, or not make it bigger, in case of an accident, or roll over.

When you turn on the key the computer runs the fuel pump for 2 seconds then shuts it off, it will not come on again until RPMs are above 500.
The 2 second run time equals about 10-15psi of fuel pressure.
Your 1992 Ranger needs 35-40psi fuel pressure, to run and start

So try this:
Turn key on and count to 3, turn key off
Repeat this 2 more times
Now try to start the engine
You have Primed the pressure 3 times so should have at least 30psi now.

If this works it means you have a pressure leak, and since you don't smell gas and didn't complain about bad MPG then it could only be two things.

On the fuel rail, with the injectors, is the Fuel Pressure Regulator(FPR), it is a vacuum controlled valve connected to the fuel rail and the Return fuel line, return line sends un-need fuel back to the tank, when engine is off this valve should close all the way and hold pressure in the system.

In the fuel tank on the fuel pump is a check valve, fuel can flow out but not back in, so it holds pressure in the system when pump is off.
There is also a short fuel line from pump/check valve to access hatch on tank, where the engine fuel line connects, it can leak.
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Old 06-03-2015
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Thanks for the info. I really appreciate it. I will try to start it as you suggest in the morning. Is the FPR something I can do myself ot is it a big job? I do not smell gas and the gas mileage has not seemed to change. I live in a very rural area so I use this truck to go to town, Walmart and such. I have a late model Suburban that I drive when I am going to Dallas, etc. I drive the Ranger locally more than I do the Suburban as it is much better on gas being a 4 cyl.

Since I have ordered the fuel pump, should I get the FPR as well and see if that is my problem before I go to the major hassle of dropping the tank or removing the bed to get to the fuel pump?

The problem started a couple of weeks ago. The truck had been starting fine but one morning I was going to town and it would crank butnot turn over. My stepson checked it with a meter and thought one of th coil packs was bad. I bought a new coil pack from the local O'Reillys. Hooked it up but didnot install, same problem still. He then tested the ICM with his meter and decided that was it. Bought that from Rock Auto cheap and I installed that myself. Still have the same problem, won't start. I put on new plug wires as the old ones were probably original. Still won't turn over. My father in law thought it might be fuel related so he sprayed carb cleaner into intake, the truck started but was not running as well as it should that day. Next morning it would not start again without priming with carb cleaner. I replaced the fuel filter yesterday and it ran much better. This morning I tried to start it and once again it cranks but won't turn over. I just drove the Suburban today.

Any additional thoughts and or help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you!

Last edited by fmitchelltx; 06-03-2015 at 02:22 AM. Reason: I just changed my Rock Auto order and added the FPR to the order. I will now receive the fuel pump and FPR.
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Old 06-03-2015
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I just changed my Rock Auto order to include the fuel pump and FPR. They were both pretty cheap. Is there anything else I should order? I will return the pump if the FPR fixes the problem. The FPR looks to be pretty easy to replace. Am I correct in that thought?

Thank you so very much. I really appreciate the help!
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Old 06-03-2015
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I tried doing as you suggested a few minutes ago,

So try this:
Turn key on and count to 3, turn key off
Repeat this 2 more times
Now try to start the engine
You have Primed the pressure 3 times so should have at least 30psi now.

The truck engine did not turn over. It just cranks as it usually has done but not turn over and start.

Is there anything else I can try before the new fuel pump and FPR arrive in the mail in a few days?

I will spray carb cleaner into the intake and start the truck if I need to use it for the next few days until the parts arrive.

Thank you for all of the help!
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Old 06-03-2015
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When you turned the key on, did you hear the fuel pump come on for 2 seconds?

It is not quiet you can usually hear it in the cab, a "hum" and then a "click" when the fuel pump relay opens and pump shuts off.

If you don't hear it come on each time the key is turned on then it could be the fuel pump relay is not closing as it should.
Not sure on the 1992, but fuel pump relay should be in or under the engine compartment fuse box.
Have a look here for under: How To: Change A Fuel Pump Relay-91-94X - Ford Explorer and Ranger Forums "Serious Explorations"

Green base is FP relay, Brown base is EEC relay, Black base is WOT(wide open throttle) relay, you can swap FP relay and WOT relay they are the same.
WOT relay is only used to turn off AC when throttle is wide open and you need extra power

But FIRST..........there is another test, in the engine compartment usually on drivers side near firewall is the OBDI test port.
Have a look here for what it looks like: Ford Ranger - Testing EEC-IV Equipped Engines
It is usually just loose hanging near power brake booster, gray or black plastic

In the second drawing down you will see the "Fuel Pump" slot IDed
That slot's wire is connected to the computer wire and Fuel Pump Relay wire, that wire used to turn on the fuel pump relay(close it), this is done by Grounding the fuel pump relay.
If the key is ON and you use a Grounded jumper wire in that slot you should hear the FP relay "click" and then the "hum" of the fuel pump.
If you hear the click and hum leave jumper wire connected and try to start engine.


It could be fuel pressure regulator is not closing and system can not build up enough pressure in the 2 seconds the fuel pump comes on, even if you Prime it multiple times, only when you get engine to start, with brake cleaner and above 500 RPMs, does the fuel pump come on full time and system has enough pressure to continue to run.

But same could be said for fuel pump check valve.

You could try loosening the FPR's return fuel line, put a towel under it, then turn on fuel pump and see if alot of fuel flows out of it, if so then it would most likely be the problem.
It should be closed tight with no vacuum pulling it open.
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Old 06-03-2015
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Thank you very much. I have never heard the fuel pump relay ever kick in on this truck. It is not something that I would normally pay attention to anyway. The radio is usually on when I start the truck. I will take this info and see what I can do. I will make hard copy of it and get my father in law, if he feels up to it, help me go through your suggestions. I think I can find the fuel pump relay and swap it out with the other one and see what happens. It is an old truck so I expect things to start breaking down on it. As I say, most everything seems original and has probably never been changed outside of oil, plugs, etc.

I will let you know what happens.

Thanks again!
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  #8  
Old 06-03-2015
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I just went out to the truck and removed the fuse block from the firewall to check the fuel pump relay. There is a relay there, but there is no harness connected to it. I looked all around for a loose harness to connect to it but do not find a harness that is loose. All of the wires here are already attached to their proper locations. I just do not feel or see a harness to connect to the fuel pump relay. I have pulled on the harnesses in this area and find nothing loose or hanging free.

I just took pictures of what I am seeing right now. (See attached pictures) I have not done anything other than bolt the fuse block back to the firewall.

What is the light grey piece that are plugged into the harness. This can be seen in the last couple of pictures. I am guessing a fusible link. Is that correct? Could one of those be bad?

The 30 amp fuse above the fuel pump relay is good.

Where do I go from here?

Thank you again for all of your help. I really appreciate it!
Attached Thumbnails
Fuel pump replacement?-2015-06-03-13.18.09.jpg   Fuel pump replacement?-2015-06-03-13.17.51.jpg   Fuel pump replacement?-2015-06-03-13.18.22.jpg   Fuel pump replacement?-2015-06-03-13.24.15.jpg   Fuel pump replacement?-20150603_132416.jpg  

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Old 06-04-2015
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Looks like FP relay was already replaced, in the first pic there is a relay at the bottom of the pic.

Check its wire colors
Red
Black/yellow stripe
Green/yellow stripe
Light blue/orange stripe
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  #10  
Old 06-04-2015
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That is my problem. There are no wires goingto the relay. I am not finding any that are free to hook up to the fuel pump relay. Apparently the truck has never had the fuel pump relay hooked up here. What do I need to do? : =RonD;2092573]Looks like FP relay was already replaced, in the first pic there is a relay at the bottom of the pic.

Check its wire colors
Red
Black/yellow stripe
Green/yellow stripe
Light blue/orange stripe[/QUOTE]
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Old 06-04-2015
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I took the truck to a local shop today and the mechanic there believes the mass air flow sensor may be dirty and causing the problem. I went bu Autozone and got a can of mass air flow sensor cleaner. I got home, took it off, sprayed it down, and reinstalled it. It did not look dirty but I will try and start the truck again in the morning. Hopefully that fixes the problem, I hope.

The mechanic showed me that someone had put a new fuel pump relay on but never mounted it to the fuse block. They just connected the new relay and left it hanging, never taking the old one out from under the fuse block.

I am going to just have to take it into the shop to see what's wrong if this does not fix it. He does not think the fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator are the problem but doesn't know without leaving the truck with him for overnight or for a couple of days.
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Old 06-04-2015
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There are no wires going to the socket..........now, but there were wires going to the socket, they have just been moved and used for a new fuel pump relay at a different location.
Look at the other relays, I see a few in the pics, and see which one has those wire colors, that will be your fuel pump relay.

OOPS, I see the mechanic saw what I saw.
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Old 06-04-2015
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Thanks. I am hoping that cleaning the Mass Air Flow Sensor will fix the problem. I cleaned it but am not holding out much hope. Is there a way for a parts house or repair place to plug in one of the small computers to get codes? Autozone says the truck is too old and they do mot have a way to read the codes.
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Old 06-05-2015
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You can do it yourself with a test light, analog volt meter, or on a '92 the CEL(check engine light, MIL) method may work.

Read here: Ford Ranger - Testing EEC-IV Equipped Engines
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