Which motor oil to use?
#1
03-01-2008
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#3
03-01-2008
#4
03-01-2008
Every mechanic I've asked has said that there is absolutely no difference in regular motor oil and high mileage oil except the price tag. I don't have a single clue when it comes to the internal workings of vehicles so I just go by what I've heard.
From experience though my '95 2.3L automatic Ranger with 210,000 miles runs like a charm and I use the cheapest 5w-30 oil I can find. I do baby it and drive for good gas mileage so that may be a factor
From experience though my '95 2.3L automatic Ranger with 210,000 miles runs like a charm and I use the cheapest 5w-30 oil I can find. I do baby it and drive for good gas mileage so that may be a factor
#5
03-02-2008
You know, that's what I believe myself. The only difference is the price tag UNLESS..............................you're buying synthetic. I believe there is a difference there.
I've put over 300,000 miles on a vehicle running the cheapest Wal-Mart brand there is (blue bottle) and as long as you change your oil at recommended intervals you'll be fine. I changed mine every 3,000-5,000 on regular oil and about 10,000 on synthetic.
I know there's laboratory tests showing which is better or has better ingredients but the #1 function of oil is lubrication and the #1 reason for failure is dirtiness (and thermal breakdown). Synthetic is manmade and can go longer because it hardly breaks down (if at all), but it does get dirty.
Allen
I've put over 300,000 miles on a vehicle running the cheapest Wal-Mart brand there is (blue bottle) and as long as you change your oil at recommended intervals you'll be fine. I changed mine every 3,000-5,000 on regular oil and about 10,000 on synthetic.
I know there's laboratory tests showing which is better or has better ingredients but the #1 function of oil is lubrication and the #1 reason for failure is dirtiness (and thermal breakdown). Synthetic is manmade and can go longer because it hardly breaks down (if at all), but it does get dirty.
Allen
#6
03-02-2008
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: clymer, pa
Posts: 100
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#7
03-02-2008
#8
03-02-2008
#10
03-02-2008
#11
03-02-2008
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Fitchburg,MA
Posts: 137
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#12
03-02-2008
#13
03-02-2008
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Fitchburg,MA
Posts: 137
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#14
03-02-2008
There's nothing wrong with changing it the way you do, and you're definitely ensuring clean oil by doing so. Your internal engine components will bless you FordRangerXLT!
Allen
#15
03-02-2008
Exactly right! Oil is going to get dirty at the same rate whether it's dino, or synthetic! Matter of fact, only Scamsoil recommends such long oil change intervals just to justify the highly inflated price for their products due to the MLM (pyramid) structure!! Even REAL oil companies recommend following the vehicle manufacturer's oil change interval with their synthetics!!!
#16
03-02-2008
I've had my oil tested when I take it out and it's still useable.
The dirt problem is not as much as you think -- especially with a "real" filter of which there are many.
Another advantage if you're a "green" type is that you're not generating as much waste oil.
I get about 20K out of mine with not deterioration of the oil and VERY little metals in it. It works.
But if you doubt, try it once then get the oil tested. It made a believer out of me.
Running oil for 3K to 5K is thowing away money and petroleum.
But if you're afraid to make the switch, I understand -- I was once also.
As far as when to switch, you can switch any time. Today's synthetics are compatible with cracked petroleum oils so you don't have to flush or anything.
I did change my filter several times (every 6-8K) over the course, and topped off the 1/2 quart or whatever it takes when I do. Lately with the microfiber filters I run them 10K and only do one filter change between oil changes and it still works great. Even less work and extra oil.
The dirt problem is not as much as you think -- especially with a "real" filter of which there are many.
Another advantage if you're a "green" type is that you're not generating as much waste oil.
I get about 20K out of mine with not deterioration of the oil and VERY little metals in it. It works.
But if you doubt, try it once then get the oil tested. It made a believer out of me.
Running oil for 3K to 5K is thowing away money and petroleum.
But if you're afraid to make the switch, I understand -- I was once also.
As far as when to switch, you can switch any time. Today's synthetics are compatible with cracked petroleum oils so you don't have to flush or anything.
I did change my filter several times (every 6-8K) over the course, and topped off the 1/2 quart or whatever it takes when I do. Lately with the microfiber filters I run them 10K and only do one filter change between oil changes and it still works great. Even less work and extra oil.
#17
03-02-2008
I've had my oil tested when I take it out and it's still useable.
The dirt problem is not as much as you think -- especially with a "real" filter of which there are many.
Another advantage if you're a "green" type is that you're not generating as much waste oil.
I get about 20K out of mine with not deterioration of the oil and VERY little metals in it. It works.
But if you doubt, try it once then get the oil tested. It made a believer out of me.
Running oil for 3K to 5K is thowing away money and petroleum.
But if you're afraid to make the switch, I understand -- I was once also.
As far as when to switch, you can switch any time. Today's synthetics are compatible with cracked petroleum oils so you don't have to flush or anything.
I did change my filter several times (every 6-8K) over the course, and topped off the 1/2 quart or whatever it takes when I do. Lately with the microfiber filters I run them 10K and only do one filter change between oil changes and it still works great. Even less work and extra oil.
The dirt problem is not as much as you think -- especially with a "real" filter of which there are many.
Another advantage if you're a "green" type is that you're not generating as much waste oil.
I get about 20K out of mine with not deterioration of the oil and VERY little metals in it. It works.
But if you doubt, try it once then get the oil tested. It made a believer out of me.
Running oil for 3K to 5K is thowing away money and petroleum.
But if you're afraid to make the switch, I understand -- I was once also.
As far as when to switch, you can switch any time. Today's synthetics are compatible with cracked petroleum oils so you don't have to flush or anything.
I did change my filter several times (every 6-8K) over the course, and topped off the 1/2 quart or whatever it takes when I do. Lately with the microfiber filters I run them 10K and only do one filter change between oil changes and it still works great. Even less work and extra oil.
#18
03-02-2008
Not really. Even with the oil test I come out ahead -- and I get the lower wear properties of a synthetic.
Your analysis only holds is synthetic is no better in the first place -- but it is.
This debate goes on forever. The ones who haven't tried it knock it, and the ones who've done it with no problems and documented results talk from experience. Everyone makes his own choice, but at least those of us with extended drain experience know exactly what we're talking about.
Arguing for constantly throwing away inferior oil as if somehow it's a "better idea" or "safer" just doesn't wash.
But I'll quit. I know what I'm experiencing and you don't so there's no further room for discussion lol. Try it and see.
At this point I only test my oil every other year. This is a test year. If this year shows no problems I'll probably stop testing entirely and just do 1 year changes with an oil I now know works as designed.
Your analysis only holds is synthetic is no better in the first place -- but it is.
This debate goes on forever. The ones who haven't tried it knock it, and the ones who've done it with no problems and documented results talk from experience. Everyone makes his own choice, but at least those of us with extended drain experience know exactly what we're talking about.
Arguing for constantly throwing away inferior oil as if somehow it's a "better idea" or "safer" just doesn't wash.
But I'll quit. I know what I'm experiencing and you don't so there's no further room for discussion lol. Try it and see.
At this point I only test my oil every other year. This is a test year. If this year shows no problems I'll probably stop testing entirely and just do 1 year changes with an oil I now know works as designed.
#19
03-02-2008
Not really. Even with the oil test I come out ahead -- and I get the lower wear properties of a synthetic.
Your analysis only holds is synthetic is no better in the first place -- but it is.
This debate goes on forever. The ones who haven't tried it knock it, and the ones who've done it with no problems and documented results talk from experience. Everyone makes his own choice, but at least those of us with extended drain experience know exactly what we're talking about.
Arguing for constantly throwing away inferior oil as if somehow it's a "better idea" or "safer" just doesn't wash.
But I'll quit. I know what I'm experiencing and you don't so there's no further room for discussion lol. Try it and see.
At this point I only test my oil every other year. This is a test year. If this year shows no problems I'll probably stop testing entirely and just do 1 year changes with an oil I now know works as designed.
Your analysis only holds is synthetic is no better in the first place -- but it is.
This debate goes on forever. The ones who haven't tried it knock it, and the ones who've done it with no problems and documented results talk from experience. Everyone makes his own choice, but at least those of us with extended drain experience know exactly what we're talking about.
Arguing for constantly throwing away inferior oil as if somehow it's a "better idea" or "safer" just doesn't wash.
But I'll quit. I know what I'm experiencing and you don't so there's no further room for discussion lol. Try it and see.
At this point I only test my oil every other year. This is a test year. If this year shows no problems I'll probably stop testing entirely and just do 1 year changes with an oil I now know works as designed.
I'm sorry to hear you have been so brainwashed by Scamsoil! But this is a characteristic of most MLM companies! Their website is full of lies and deceit,
just look at how they try to make you believe that all their oil products are
are API certified, and only 2 are, PCO, and XL.
Scamsoil is only a blender and packager, they buy all of their base oil stock from REAL oil companies.....
Just my $0.02........
#21
03-02-2008
#22
03-02-2008
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Riverside, CA
Posts: 327
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#23
03-02-2008
#24
03-03-2008
This is the results I got with Mobil 1. The oil is almost like new.
http://www.freewebs.com/arizonariders/oilanalysis.htm
Can you post your UOA results so I can compare them to Mobil 1?
http://www.freewebs.com/arizonariders/oilanalysis.htm
Can you post your UOA results so I can compare them to Mobil 1?
#25
03-10-2008
Mobil 1 here. The factory recommends, "Every 5,000 miles or six months whichever comes first." This week was my 6 month change date and only had about 2,000- 2,500 miles on it but I changed it anyway, because over time, oil can collect a lot of dirt and condensation, so I change it. The truck runs like new and sounds great, even though it has 35,500 miles on it.
