Ok easy stuff is '94 Ranger XLT 4-banger. 134,000 miles. Just bought this last weekend, and about 2 days after I got it the Check Engine Light came on. The first couple times it happened was soon after I started it cold, and only stayed on for a couple seconds. Today that's changed to it came on after I had been driving for 20 minutes, and it stayed on for the rest of my 35 minute drive. On the way home it wasn't on right away, but came on and stayed on after that.

Now, I've done nothing to this truck and don't really know its history, and nothing of this was mentioned when I bought it, I just haven't had a chance to ask the past owner yet. I'm pretty new to this mechanical thing, but am learning. What would I check first here? Does my '94 even have a place to hook up a code reader if I could get it to stay on when I got to a autozone?

Thanks for any help.

 

You don't absolutely need a code reader for a 94 Ranger. Try this method to get the code:

http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/

You'll need to locate the odd shaped trapezoidal connector under the hood or dash - the OBD connector location wasn't standardized until 1995-on.

After you get the code, look up its definition further down on that same link.

Good luck.

 

Does it ever have problems starting? My light did that when the fuel pump started going bad.

 

No troubles at all starting. It is so random when it comes on too. Hasn't really stayed on long enough for me to get to an autozone. I'm confused, is there a problem or not? and how severe?

 

check the code and let us know what it is, then we can tell you where to go from there. the code will still be stored in memory even if the light is not currently on. this is a good write up about reading your codes. the test connector is right by the power distribution box under the hood (if my memory is correct, ill take a look at mine tomorrow) but check the codes and let us know what they say and I'll let you know where to go from there.

 

Ok update time. I had to just take it in to a shop and get the code read. Plus I just had them give everything a look over since I've recently bought this thing. Here's what they said:

Your EGR system has a problem because of carbon buildup. Because of that they want to replace EVERYTHING that has to do with the egr, solenoid, dpce (?), valve, sensor, hoses and then clean it out. I talked to the past owner and a mechanic friend, he said screw that. Past owner said the egr vavle is fairly new, and they both think it may just need cleaned out.

I'll do this, but I need help! I'm not positive where all the components of the egr system are located, so if someone could help me out with that, that would be great. Pictures are best

They didn't tell me the exact code, so I think I'll call them up today to get that for you guys. On the bright side of things, the only other thing they said needed attention was the serpentine belt, which they were real eager to charge me like over $50 with parts/labor... Obviously I said no to that, as it is one thing I can figure out. Anyway thanks anybody for any help!

 

well, the normal part of the EGR that plugs up on these things is the passage i the intake manifold. the best thing to do to clean that out is to take the EGR valve off the intake manifold, and actually, if you pull off the upper intake manifold you can run a 1/2" drill bit into the port and get all the carbon cleaned out of it. if you dont want to take the upper manifold off, just take the EGR valve off of the intake and disconnect it from the exhaust tube, then clean out the port in the intake manifold as good as possible. a little trick if you wanted to clean out the tube running from the exhaust to the EGR is to get a bicycle brake cable and stick it in a drill, untwist the metal strands and run them down in the tube, then spin up the drill and slowly pull it out and the metal strands will clean out the inside of the tube, jsut be careful not to pull it all the way out, you wouldnt want those things whippin around your engine bay or you.