Ranger 2.3l idles and runs rough
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 8
Likes: 2
From: LYNCHBURG
Ranger 2.3l idles and runs rough
I have a 1992 Ford Ranger 2.3 l That runs great all day except for the 1st start of the morning it stumbles boggs down and falls on its face until warmed up. I have to drive it hard before it starts running normal then it's fine the rest of the day. I have given it a full tune up oil change spark plugs wires etc. The o2 sensor is disconnected, I don't know if this affects it in any way.. Also the egr is deleted.Any help would be greatly appreciated I am new to the forms thank you.
Welcome to the forum
You need to get a new O2 sensor and connect it, you are just throwing money away without it(wasting fuel), O2s need to be changed ever 100k miles or 12 years which ever comes first
But not related to the problem you describe
What you describe reads like there is no CHOKE being set on Cold Start, all gasoline engines need to be "choked" when cold
The computer runs Choke Mode until engine warms up, same as choke on the old carb setups
Choke is based on ECT sensor temperature
ECT sensors is a TWO WIRE sensor only used by the computer, no connection to dash board temp gauge, that uses a 1 wire Sender
Ford moved this sensor around over the years
Might be on a heater hose like this: https://www.route66hotrodhigh.com/im...orLocation.jpg
Replace that sensor so computer will set Choke on cold start
When choke is set you should have High Idle, 1,100rpms or so, on start up, and that will drop as engine warms up
You need to get a new O2 sensor and connect it, you are just throwing money away without it(wasting fuel), O2s need to be changed ever 100k miles or 12 years which ever comes first
But not related to the problem you describe
What you describe reads like there is no CHOKE being set on Cold Start, all gasoline engines need to be "choked" when cold
The computer runs Choke Mode until engine warms up, same as choke on the old carb setups
Choke is based on ECT sensor temperature
ECT sensors is a TWO WIRE sensor only used by the computer, no connection to dash board temp gauge, that uses a 1 wire Sender
Ford moved this sensor around over the years
Might be on a heater hose like this: https://www.route66hotrodhigh.com/im...orLocation.jpg
Replace that sensor so computer will set Choke on cold start
When choke is set you should have High Idle, 1,100rpms or so, on start up, and that will drop as engine warms up
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 8
Likes: 2
From: LYNCHBURG
Welcome to the forum
You need to get a new O2 sensor and connect it, you are just throwing money away without it(wasting fuel), O2s need to be changed ever 100k miles or 12 years which ever comes first
But not related to the problem you describe
What you describe reads like there is no CHOKE being set on Cold Start, all gasoline engines need to be "choked" when cold
The computer runs Choke Mode until engine warms up, same as choke on the old carb setups
Choke is based on ECT sensor temperature
ECT sensors is a TWO WIRE sensor only used by the computer, no connection to dash board temp gauge, that uses a 1 wire Sender
Ford moved this sensor around over the years
Might be on a heater hose like this: https://www.route66hotrodhigh.com/im...orLocation.jpg
Replace that sensor so computer will set Choke on cold start
When choke is set you should have High Idle, 1,100rpms or so, on start up, and that will drop as engine warms up
You need to get a new O2 sensor and connect it, you are just throwing money away without it(wasting fuel), O2s need to be changed ever 100k miles or 12 years which ever comes first
But not related to the problem you describe
What you describe reads like there is no CHOKE being set on Cold Start, all gasoline engines need to be "choked" when cold
The computer runs Choke Mode until engine warms up, same as choke on the old carb setups
Choke is based on ECT sensor temperature
ECT sensors is a TWO WIRE sensor only used by the computer, no connection to dash board temp gauge, that uses a 1 wire Sender
Ford moved this sensor around over the years
Might be on a heater hose like this: https://www.route66hotrodhigh.com/im...orLocation.jpg
Replace that sensor so computer will set Choke on cold start
When choke is set you should have High Idle, 1,100rpms or so, on start up, and that will drop as engine warms up
Yes, ECT = engine coolant temp
Yes, you can test it with an OHM meter, cold and then after engine is warmed up, unplug it both times, engine off
What you show see here: https://www.explorerforum.com/forums...art.24365/full
70degF outside temp(cold engine temp) should read 37,000 ohms, 37.00k ohms
After full warm up, 190degF should see 2,500 ohms, 2.50k ohms
My guess would be it will show 5,000(5k) ohms cold, or less so computer "thinks" its just a re-start after engine is already warmed up, even when engine is stone cold
Which is why there is not an issue during the day when engine is already warm on a re-start
Yes, you can test it with an OHM meter, cold and then after engine is warmed up, unplug it both times, engine off
What you show see here: https://www.explorerforum.com/forums...art.24365/full
70degF outside temp(cold engine temp) should read 37,000 ohms, 37.00k ohms
After full warm up, 190degF should see 2,500 ohms, 2.50k ohms
My guess would be it will show 5,000(5k) ohms cold, or less so computer "thinks" its just a re-start after engine is already warmed up, even when engine is stone cold
Which is why there is not an issue during the day when engine is already warm on a re-start
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 8
Likes: 2
From: LYNCHBURG
Yes, ECT = engine coolant temp
Yes, you can test it with an OHM meter, cold and then after engine is warmed up, unplug it both times, engine off
What you show see here: https://www.explorerforum.com/forums...art.24365/full
70degF outside temp(cold engine temp) should read 37,000 ohms, 37.00k ohms
After full warm up, 190degF should see 2,500 ohms, 2.50k ohms
My guess would be it will show 5,000(5k) ohms cold, or less so computer "thinks" its just a re-start after engine is already warmed up, even when engine is stone cold
Which is why there is not an issue during the day when engine is already warm on a re-start
Yes, you can test it with an OHM meter, cold and then after engine is warmed up, unplug it both times, engine off
What you show see here: https://www.explorerforum.com/forums...art.24365/full
70degF outside temp(cold engine temp) should read 37,000 ohms, 37.00k ohms
After full warm up, 190degF should see 2,500 ohms, 2.50k ohms
My guess would be it will show 5,000(5k) ohms cold, or less so computer "thinks" its just a re-start after engine is already warmed up, even when engine is stone cold
Which is why there is not an issue during the day when engine is already warm on a re-start
Good stuff
Odd it didn't turn on the Check Engine light(CEL) and set a code, it's an important sensor
21 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor out of range - ECT
Let us know, good to "solve a problem" it this works
Odd it didn't turn on the Check Engine light(CEL) and set a code, it's an important sensor
21 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor out of range - ECT
Let us know, good to "solve a problem" it this works
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 8
Likes: 2
From: LYNCHBURG
ok I have another issue I just found, The guy who owned it before me installed a new crank His shaft position sensor and hacked up the wiring. On the new sensor wiring it's a wiring there is one plug that is separate from the main plug and it's plugged into nothing also on the engine horn aside there is a stray cut Orange wire with a red tracer right by wear the crank shaft position sensor plug is. Can someone help me shine some light on this so I can figure out what's going on. I don't know if I need to make a new thread for this or not let me know.
Its YOUR thread so you can ask any new questions you want to
New Crank position sensor comes with wiring attached, like this: https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/..._AC_SY355_.jpg
The separate black plug-in is a ground wire that is often left unplugged, even by Ford, lol
To install new crank sensor you need to run the new wire loom BEHIND the engines front cover plate so more disassembly is required, like this: https://www.2carpros.com/images/ques...3/original.jpg
Some people just cut the wires and slide them thru the hole then splice them back together, not recommended but does work if splices are good
The Orange/red wire is important, it runs from crank sensor to ICM(spark module) but........its also spliced to with another orange/red wire that runs to engine computer(EEC)
Wiring diagram here: https://www.therangerstation.com/tec...m_1990_2_3.JPG
Crank sensor is in the middle
Spark module is at the bottom
Engine computer is at the top
O/R = orange/red wire, this is the ignition ground reference wire, its not "a ground" like battery negative, its for timing of the spark pluses
New Crank position sensor comes with wiring attached, like this: https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/..._AC_SY355_.jpg
The separate black plug-in is a ground wire that is often left unplugged, even by Ford, lol
To install new crank sensor you need to run the new wire loom BEHIND the engines front cover plate so more disassembly is required, like this: https://www.2carpros.com/images/ques...3/original.jpg
Some people just cut the wires and slide them thru the hole then splice them back together, not recommended but does work if splices are good
The Orange/red wire is important, it runs from crank sensor to ICM(spark module) but........its also spliced to with another orange/red wire that runs to engine computer(EEC)
Wiring diagram here: https://www.therangerstation.com/tec...m_1990_2_3.JPG
Crank sensor is in the middle
Spark module is at the bottom
Engine computer is at the top
O/R = orange/red wire, this is the ignition ground reference wire, its not "a ground" like battery negative, its for timing of the spark pluses
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 8
Likes: 2
From: LYNCHBURG
Its YOUR thread so you can ask any new questions you want to
New Crank position sensor comes with wiring attached, like this: https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/..._AC_SY355_.jpg
The separate black plug-in is a ground wire that is often left unplugged, even by Ford, lol
To install new crank sensor you need to run the new wire loom BEHIND the engines front cover plate so more disassembly is required, like this: https://www.2carpros.com/images/ques...3/original.jpg
Some people just cut the wires and slide them thru the hole then splice them back together, not recommended but does work if splices are good
The Orange/red wire is important, it runs from crank sensor to ICM(spark module) but........its also spliced to with another orange/red wire that runs to engine computer(EEC)
Wiring diagram here: https://www.therangerstation.com/tec...m_1990_2_3.JPG
Crank sensor is in the middle
Spark module is at the bottom
Engine computer is at the top
O/R = orange/red wire, this is the ignition ground reference wire, its not "a ground" like battery negative, its for timing of the spark pluses
New Crank position sensor comes with wiring attached, like this: https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/..._AC_SY355_.jpg
The separate black plug-in is a ground wire that is often left unplugged, even by Ford, lol
To install new crank sensor you need to run the new wire loom BEHIND the engines front cover plate so more disassembly is required, like this: https://www.2carpros.com/images/ques...3/original.jpg
Some people just cut the wires and slide them thru the hole then splice them back together, not recommended but does work if splices are good
The Orange/red wire is important, it runs from crank sensor to ICM(spark module) but........its also spliced to with another orange/red wire that runs to engine computer(EEC)
Wiring diagram here: https://www.therangerstation.com/tec...m_1990_2_3.JPG
Crank sensor is in the middle
Spark module is at the bottom
Engine computer is at the top
O/R = orange/red wire, this is the ignition ground reference wire, its not "a ground" like battery negative, its for timing of the spark pluses
You can see the little Orange wire with red tracer After the plug where does that need to go it's just cut off
Yes looks like a real mess
Not sure what that other wire is for
Ford does use the same color code wires in other systems, so orange/red stripe wire could be used for lights, or any other system
There is an oil pressure sender and coolant temp sender back in that area, each just has 1 wire connected
Not sure what that other wire is for
Ford does use the same color code wires in other systems, so orange/red stripe wire could be used for lights, or any other system
There is an oil pressure sender and coolant temp sender back in that area, each just has 1 wire connected
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 8
Likes: 2
From: LYNCHBURG
Yes looks like a real mess
Not sure what that other wire is for
Ford does use the same color code wires in other systems, so orange/red stripe wire could be used for lights, or any other system
There is an oil pressure sender and coolant temp sender back in that area, each just has 1 wire connected
Not sure what that other wire is for
Ford does use the same color code wires in other systems, so orange/red stripe wire could be used for lights, or any other system
There is an oil pressure sender and coolant temp sender back in that area, each just has 1 wire connected
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
TonyT
General Technical & Electrical
4
Feb 13, 2017 12:41 PM
