was wondering if anyone has ever relocated a clutch master cylinder i have a 94 ranger 2.3 and its bagged and when i slam down the tire gets very close to it and i have broke it twice and didnt know if anyone had ever had this prob

 

If your tire is hitting the bottom of the clutch master clyinder located in the firewall I would say the vehicle is unfit to be on the road and could hurt or kill someone. If bagged means rusted out please remove it from service.

 

Well if anyone has any helpful advice would be appreciated some people just
Assume it's on the road it's a project and sits it the driveway idiot

 

Should be able to just drill a couple new holes and raise it up a inch or so.I know you probably don't want to get a size smaller tires but maybe you could put a stopper on the I beam to keep it from dropping that low.Larry,just because it is bagged doesn't mean he drives it there.When the guys drive them around,they usually have a little air in the bags.You need to know a little bit what you are talking about before you criticize.

 

Sounds like you get that thing LOW…

Since the Clutch Master Cylinder is actually attached to the Clutch Pedal/Rod system moving the Clutch Reservoir is not problem other than as stated above, new holes.
Just make sure you do not "over stretch" the lines and if there is a strain relief in the line (I think it is rubber anyway ?) keep as much of it as possible and keep it above the Pedal Master Cylinder to keep the flow going in the correct direction.

 

Yea, How low are we talking here man.
Not to bash you or anything, but i've NEVER seen that happen, and i've welded in tubes for frames on trucks.

In theory you could move it. Just make sure your have enough lines to move it up that few inches or whatever you need.

 

if you do mean moving the master cylinder (not the reservoir guys) then drilling new holes and moving it up will also move the clutch pedal itself since they are attached through the firewall via a linkage. you might be able to move it up a bit and extend the clutch pedal so it still sits in a comfortable position. you may also be able to make an angled block to change the angle the master sits on when bolted to the firewall so the side of the master closest to the tire is angled higher than the front to help with clearance. just make sure what ever you do the clutch pedal moves smoothly and still operates properly.

 

Sorry about that, moving the master cylinder means remounting so the pedal can actuate it, will it have enough travel to fully actuate the slave and what will it do to the pedal pressure.

Almost easier to put in the bump stop mentioned in above postings.

 

when dropped all the way theres mayne a millimeter in between the tire and rubber hose and my truck has alittle bumpsteer so when i raise and lower the wheel turns alittle unless im holding it and thats what scares me and i wanna be able to not worry at all cause in the future i would like to drag and not worry bout the truck breaking

 

when i bought the truck the suspension was already done and the front is bagged without i beams so kind of leads me that i had a different setup than stock like a yota swap or something just cant tell cause when i bought the breaks for the front nothing fit and couldnt figure out why tell i researched alittle and noticed that alot of rangers were going that route

 

but for some reason the wheels do stick in alot more than the back it seems cause with the upper and lower control arms i noticed i coudlnt mount anything smaller than 20's or the rim would rub on the control arm so ive been kinda stuck and havent seen the previous owner at all since i bought it

 

Maybe you need to put stops in place just before the sticking point ?
I have never worked on a DROPPED vehicle so I do not know for sure but it would seem logical to stop the drop before the sticking point.

Anyway, on my Jeep I used a Ford truck Master Cylinder/Reservoir Unit and plumbed in the linkage to make it work. Since your pedal should still swing if you remove the existing Master maybe a new unit like I used would work mounted higher and new linkage made.

Just thinking out loud...

 

If you have stock beams without some drop in them,you must be getting some awful camber gain when dropped.Is it the tire at this angle is when it is hitting the master cyl?