1993 | Manual | RWD

I am having starting issues with the truck. It seems I have to give it gas in order for it to start. Does not start right away unless I turn it off and then turn it right back on. When it does start when it is cold, I have to keep revving do that it doesn't die. Once warmed up, doesn't really have an issue (sitting at a stop light).

I have shot the parts cannon at it. Could the injectors be bad? ICM? Crank position sensor?

NEW
plugs
plug wires
battery
fuel filter
coil packs
fuel pump

 

The ECT(engine coolant temp) sensor is the most likely issue, it sets the CHOKE that all gasoline engines need to start and run cold

Should be located on the front of the engine on a Coolant fitting, has 2 wires
This sensor has nothing to do with dash temp gauge, that use a sender at the back of the engine

The computer will choke a cold engine and also set a high idle, above 1,000rpms, when engine is cold
If that's not happening then computer doesn't :know" engine is cold, it thinks is warmed up already, ECT sensor is what computer uses/needs to "know" the temp

Just FYI, you can't give a fuel injected engine gas, using the gas pedal, its actually an "air pedal" on fuel injected engines
Only the computer can "give it gas"

You may also have an unrelated issue with fuel pressure dropping to 0 when engine is off
Cycle key on and off 3 times and then try to start engine, that will build up fuel pressure in the system

 

I did not know about the ETC. Thank you for that RonD.

Mine was throwing a hissy fit until I replaced the Mass Air Flow Sensor. Now it purrs like a kitten. I got the sensor only (Walter) from rockauto for a reasonable price. YMMV
That is of course after first getting new Plugs/Wires, Packs, and an ICM.

On the ICM. The new one solved the "Limp Home" garbage. AFTER getting two new packs. Still a bit peeved about that.
.

 

@RonD Idles much better now. Takes about 20-30 seconds before it hovers around 900 rpms, but it defiantly doesn't die on me. Still having the long cranky issue, even after I tried turning the key on/off 3x.

 

On the 1993 2.3l it might be ICM(ignition control module), it starts Spark and fuel flow

If it for sure does fire up within 2 seconds when cranking then try 50/50 test
Take off the air tube on intake, you can leave it off for the test
Spray fuel into the intake
Crank engine over, should fire right away\
If it starts and then dies SPARK is working but fuel flow is delayed
If it doesn't start instantly then SPARK is delayed
50/50 instant results

ICM gets spark signal from Crank Sensor, ICM then sends that signal to computer to start injectors

ICM is hooked to both coil pack and starts spark as soon as it gets the timing signal from crank sensor
There is about a 1-2 second delay for fuel startup, thats normal

 

The engine is now not turning over at all. There’s an intermittent terrible grinding sound when crank the car.

I took the starter off to get it tested at the out to get it tested at the auto parts store. There were a lot of metals shavings inside.

The starter tested fine. The flywheel is less than 6 months old. Is it already worn down? Was there a miss match between parts?

I'm about to take this thing to the scrap yard. I can't get it reliable to save my life.

 

The starter gear is suppose to be softer metal than the ring gear(on flywheel) so if there is a mismatch the starter gear wears down not the ring gear

So not sure why the ring gear would be wearing out?

What was the source of the new flywheel?
And why was it changed?

And do you know if the Block Plate was reinstalled when flywheel was changed?
Block plate is a thin metal plate between engine and bell housing, its a spacer and also aligns starter motor to ring gear, example here: https://images.holley.com/rm-6016.jpg

 

@RonD Well I hope that works because I really don't want to pull the transmission again. The starter is working (according to autozone), but the gear may be worn down. I have a new one being shipped to me.

The flywheel was replaced when I changed out the clutch.

LuK LFW142 Flywheel

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

LUK is a good brand, so I am sure the ring gear is hardened steel , but have a look at it, take pictures where you can see the gear, to make sure its not showing wear

And what about the block plate?
Do you remember it being there?

 

@RonD Yes, The block plate is there.

 

Good, then make sure the new starter isn't sloppy in the hole, should be a tight fit, NO wiggle room, lol

 

Went and got a junkyard starter while the one under warranty arrives. Checked out the flywheel and there is some wear, but not enough to do anything. The metal shavings were all coming from the starter.

Replaced the MAF sensor and the ICM. The truck is a little more zippy with those new parts.

The truck started, but not without significant cranking and gas pedal pumping.

Will try the 50/50 test this weekend to narrow down either spark or gas.

@RonD @Three5Nines

 

Did you try cycling the key on and off 3 times before starting?

 

@RonD Yes, it did try to cycle the key.

 

OK

Just FYI, pumping gas pedal on a fuel injected engine just lets in more air, on a carb engine extra gasoline would be pumped in, but not on a fuel injection engine, its an "air pedal" not a gas pedal, computer doesn't respond to pedal until engine is above 400rpm, started

Just try cranking, and do 50/50 test to see if its a lack of fuel or lack of spark that's causing the long cranking

 

@RonD How long does it take for the computer to relearn the new parts? ICM, MAF, etc.

 

ICM and MAF would be 0 time, no real learning, computer takes their data as gospel
TPS is about the only sensor that is "learned", and Cam sensor as well, if so equipped
New IAC Valve can take a few drive cycles, idle will wander just a bit

Cutting all power to computer, i.e. disconnect battery for a few minutes, will cause it to "relearn" system parameters

 

@RonD now it isn’t turning over at all.

Did the 50/50 test and still not starting. I have newish plugs, wires, coil packs, and ICM.

Gonna pull the plugs to check their gap. Any other suggestions?


Left side 1 was wet; right side 3 was wet.
All were gapped correct. The plug wires may have been a little loose on some.

 

Cleaned the plugs and put them back in. Still no start right away. Also I think the flywheel is done. It sounds terrible when trying to start.

Could it be the timing?

 

There is no way for user to time the spark
If plugs were wet then crank sensor is working

1989-1994 2.3l only uses the exhaust side 4 spark plugs for starting, the intake side only works after engine is above 400rpms, so started
Just FYI

If engine doesn't start with 50/50 test then Spark is the issue
Focus on the exhaust side coil pack and plugs

Test battery voltage while cranking, if it drops below 9.5volts there won't be enough voltage for good spark

 

Is there a reason why when I do crank the engine, it is grinding. It seems the starter and flywheel hate each other. I think the second starter is done as well.

I really don’t want to replace the flywheel and drop the transmission again. Do I have any other choice? I think originally the starter was loose which was causing the issue.

**added some shims that seem to help a little bit.**

 

@RonD Swapped the coil packs to see if one was bad. No change. Should I get new plug wires? The ones that are on it are from a tune up kit from Rock Auto. A better brand maybe?

 

Hard to say
So 50/50 test was also a no start with coil packs swapped?

Kinda of stuck here, as to what might be the problem

The 1989-1994 2.3l spark system is pretty simple

Crank sensor-------------ICM----------------coil pack

It doesn't need the engine computer, just 12v and ground and it should spark when crank shaft is turning

The ICMs did have a questionable ground set up, the two passenger side screws that hold it to the intake are its grounds, and Ford usually only installed 1 of them, and it could become an intermittent ground, try loosing all the screws and retightening to see if spark becomes more reliable, or at least works

 

Ok, now on the third starter. It still started grinding on the flywheel. Took it off again to inspect. It is defiantly chewed up.

Now which is less terrible? Remove the trans or the engine?

I do have an oil leak from the oil pan which probably needs to be addressed, which would mean to pull the engine. However, I don't have a cherry picker so would need to tackle that.

Guessing that if I paid a mechanic to change the flywheel it would be several hundred dollars.

Advice?

 

Transmission has way less wiring to deal with, so drop trans to change flywheel

With trans out, you "may" be able to lift engine up enough to do oil pan, MAY is the operative word