Ok what all should I change on my 2.5L with 130,000? I am going to do a little tune up this winter break. I am going to put new plugs in, wires, timing belt, hopefully ball joints, and even more hopefully a 4.10 rear end. What kind of plugs should I get for it? Anything eles engine wise that you think I should do?

 

air filter? PCV valve? thermostat? Coolant change? what have you done to it in the past?

Spark plugs, run the motorcraft ones or autolite, which are what ford runs stock.

 

The air filter is 2 years old. I checked the coolant the other day and it is -40 degrees. I was thinking about changing the thermo and water pump while I am in there.

 

Are you serious?? The air filter is that old, that thing must be black by now. I change mine every 6 months.

 

No, its not black at all. I just cleaned it the other day.

 

I don't see any need to change the water pump. Thermostat can't hurt for 3 dollars. I would definitely change the fuel filter, make sure you don't need the special tool to get it off. Timing belt is a good idea with the mileage, but start looking into what all that involves, it can be a good amount of work to change out.

 

Ya I know it is going to be fun

 

take some pics when you do the plugs .... cause it looks like we would have to remove part of the damn manifold to get to some of em ... gotta love the dual spark!

 

Oh I thought you were saying you haven't messed with it for 2 years.

 

Ya, I am going to remove the intake when I replace the plugs. Think I should do a how to on it for someone who might be scared at doing it?

 

No, I usually clean it about every other oil change.

 

yup ... cause i would be one of those people lol ... was going to pay someone if i couldnt figure it out.

i know my wires havent been replaced since 99 so god knows whats up with the plugs .... im thinking if i replace that stuff i could see an mpg increase.

 

Ok well I will take pics of what I do

 

I agree on what everyone said like thermostat and fuel filter etc.

Always a good idea to change all fluids too (trans, rear end) and grease up anything possible, like the carrier bearing (or whatever its called) on the driveshaft if it has one. caliper sliders. bearings.

No point in changing the ball joints if they are still good. Check em out, maybe tie rod or swaybar bushings or shocks or such need help too. Any weird tire wear--allignment? You;ll have to do an alignment anyway if you change any parts.

If your changing the gears, a great time to add a limited slip--same labor.

 

Oil
Power Steering Fluid Flush
Brake Flush
Coolant Flush (i know it is -40 but if it is more than 2 years old, do it)
Belts, Hoses, Tstat
does the water pump have to come off to do the timing belt? if you're over 100k do it
Plugs, Wires
Trans Service
Rear End (if you buy a jy 8.8 youll have to do it anyway)
Fuel Filter
Clean MAF, IAC, and TB, adjust TPS voltage

Just check over the ball joints, tie rod ends, u-joints, shocks etc.
If you have never checked your ball joints, you can not use the 12-6 method and the 3-9 method for tie rod ends, theres a write up on here i did on how to check them in someone elses thread.

 

Ya, I know I need ball joints. Mine are blown out. If I remember right, I have to take the water pump off to get to it.

 

I got my plugs changed in my 97 with all the intake on. Just have to be good with a swivel and have patience. Getting the wires back on the very front one and the very last one was the hardest part. It took me about 2.5 hours to change all 8, with a few breaks since it was still 95 outside then.

I changed my trans fluid at 110xxx, everyone called me crazy for changing it in my manual trans. My step dad (retired ase cert. mechanic) has never changed his in his 98 f150 f spd and its got 230xxx and still shifts fine, even has the clutch that came from the factory in it.

I agree with the shocks too. I changed my rear 2 and going to do the front 2 very soon, my back likes me better now.

 

I just changed my back shocks when I did my body lift a few months ago. One of them was starting to leak so I replaced them both.

 

as someone who formerly owned a 94 accord ex a/t and had the trans start slipping shortly thereafter changing the trans fluid at 153k miles **** changing the fluid!

 

manual trans dont slip, its just better on the gears and syncros. I changed mine because i was getting some metal to metal sound coming from underneath the shifter. Turns out it was the swing bearing. It welded itself to the race.

 

Yeah I have heard from a couple of trani guys that if you don't change the ATF for a long time, it can be bad to change it at all. But since you have a manual trani just change it anyway.

 

bumping an old thread ... ended up getting new plugs at the shop ... platinums and a tune up for $75 hard to beat.

 

ya for 75 bux it's not even worth messing with the plugs. just make sure they really did change them all. BTW do you have a K&N or are you cleaning the cheap paper air filters?

 

I just clean the cheap paper filter. I feel better though doing the plug job myself. I have always felt better with me working on my vehicles because I know it was done the right way and not half ***. I know you can't really screw up putting plugs in but I still feel better doing it myself. I am replacing other stuff why I am in there so it is not big deal to me to pull an intake to make it a little easier.

 

pretty much what Zabeard said....

you may even want to change the tranny fluid it its an auto