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Solid Axle Swaps General discussion of solid axle swaps for the Ford Ranger.

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Old 07-16-2010
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Couple SAS questions

My front end is in need of some repairs, so I might as well just go straight to a straight axle. I have a general idea of where I'm going but I have a few questions that I can't find in build threads.

1) Planning to go with a D44, not doing insane stuff so that works well for me, was wondering what vehicles I could get one off of that would keep about the same width as the stock IFS, as I am leaving the 31-spline 8.8 in the rear.

2) Vendors: Ballistic Fab, RuffStuff, I see alot of these company's mentioned but what do you guys grab from them. I'm going with a coilover setup up front no reservoir. Shock hoops, 3 link brackets, trac-bar brackets, etc. Or do I need to build most of the brackets myself?

3) The Yota box, I know I need it, I know what it looks like, and I know for sure I'm buying a rebuilt one, but which freaking Yota does it come off of?! lol

4) Last but not least, I was wondering if the 3-link bars, trac-bar, etc. where a part bought, or made. And if they are made I imagine I grab the piping (will let you guys give me the size lol), thread the ends, and voila?

It looks relatively simple, just like a major pain in the ***. So help is appreciated!
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Old 07-16-2010
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idk if this link will work but check this out.

on fordrangerforum ive been pretty much answering rangerluc's questions to my full extent. even if ur not going with leafs, its still got tons of info for you

edit, ok....guess i cant post it on here...but ya. not trying to rep a different site, just saying that ive answered tons of questions on there.
it might be worth your while to check it out.

but, to quickly answer your questions

1) off a waggy, the d44 is still wider but not that bad. both myself and a few guys on here have run/run them
2)sky offroad shock hoops are well priced, but ruffstuff, diy4x and sites like you mentioned are great if your able to do it on ur own.
3)like mid 90's 4runner. might as well start with a JY one...mines from a jy and 70bucks vs 200+ imo is worth it...and if it doesnt work out, its your core charge right there.
4) ususally made. DOM and weld in threaded inserts.
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Old 07-16-2010
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SEARCH

READ READ READ some more
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Old 07-16-2010
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there are no true Dana44s that match the width of the ranger and have a 5on4.5 bolt pattern. There is one that is close but I wouldnt even call it a D44, its off the newer jeeps.

I would run a 1976-1979 Ford F150 or Bronco axle, perfect width, nice fit and 5on5.5. You can buy some 1" spacers/adapters for the rear and the width will be close. You want the front wider than the rear anyway.

As for the yota box, its off a 1990-1994 4Runner, 4WD version preferibly. Its the strongest and better of the Yota boxes like most people use. There is another box that is a better yota box but its pricey and hard to come by.

As for the links, for most builds they are one off Link bars. You can buy the joint ends and tube adapters from Ballistic or Poly Performance. That would be my recommendation. Then all you need to do is get some DOM, the lowers are usually 2" 1020 DOM with .25" wall. The uppers can vary I used a 1.75" 1020 DOM with a .25" wall. I build my Panhard(aka trackbar from 1.75" 1020 DOM with a .120" wall) some build it with heavier. I just did it with what I had. Steering should always be made out of 1.5" 1020 DOM with a .25" wall or larger.

As for links that mentioned you buy...

I run the Ballisitic 2.63" Johnny Joint with a 1.25" shank, so that would require a 2" tube adapter with a 1.5" inner and a 1.25-14 thread pitch. ( I run those on one end and the other end of the link is a weld on 2.63" Joint)

The 3rd link can be done with heims or JJ. I have a JJ on the axle end and a 5/8" heim on the frame end. buy the correct corresponding tube adapters. (One end can be weld on but I did tube adapters on both ends)

Steering IMO should be done with 1ton chevy tierods or 3/4" or 7/8" high quality heims
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Old 07-16-2010
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a 1976 D44 from a Ford F150 would be a perfect axle for a 3 link. You can grind the wedges off the axle and make it a clean axle tube. 77-79 were all cast in which case I might just run a radius arm setup.
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Old 07-16-2010
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Wagoneer D44 (non vacuum disconnect) are good too. Width is great and the bolt pattern is also a common 6x5.5 (Toyota & Chevy) 1980-1992 are driver drop years, and around 1982ish-1984ish are years when they have vacuum disconnect.
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Old 07-16-2010
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Wow thanks guys! I'll try to get all the parts finished up so when I get to the install it will be "bolt-on" to make the process as fast as possible as this is a DD.

One more question, I dont plan on having it sky high, I want low CG, but still be able to run and flex 35's eventually. I know I want it 50/50 for up-travel/down-travel with the shock, but I don't know what length coilovers I should get...
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Old 07-16-2010
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14"

Waggy axle is Low pinion!
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Old 07-17-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seb_L View Post
One more question, I dont plan on having it sky high, I want low CG, but still be able to run and flex 35's eventually. I know I want it 50/50 for up-travel/down-travel with the shock, but I don't know what length coilovers I should get...
so like outdoorsman/my height?

or zabeard height?.........lol
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Old 07-17-2010
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Originally Posted by zabeard View Post
14"

Waggy axle is Low pinion!
He didn't say he doesn't want a low pinion. It isn't as bad as people make it sound. Angles are good and it drags over rocks like a dream
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Old 07-17-2010
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I dont care about the angles or the dragging as much as high pinion gears are naturally stronger than low pinion.

btw my truck isnt that tall.
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Old 07-18-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zabeard View Post
I dont care about the angles or the dragging as much as high pinion gears are naturally stronger than low pinion.

btw my truck isnt that tall.
for 35's it would be.
but really it is pretty damn low...
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Old 07-18-2010
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yeah the 42s make it huge. but it is actually pretty low when its not on the huge tires.
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Old 07-19-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rstangboi View Post
so like outdoorsman/my height?

or zabeard height?.........lol
Well like yours and Zach's (Low for the size tire he has lol).

But I think for now I'll run on leafs, since it would be easier and quicker. Then build around that to eventually get to coils.

I have a lot of research left to do but I also have a crap load of time. I'll get the axle first, rebuild it from internals to externals and get an e-locker or something that I can turn on and off. Then buy leafs, U-bolts, shackles, shock hoop. Then Yota box. Most likely in that order.

I plan on running 35's to MAYBE 37's if the price is about the same, so I'm thinking of 5.13 gears, or maybe just 4.88's since they would work well with both sizes. That's another thing I have to think about. But before the truck goes under the knife, I would get some matching gears and a locker for the rear.

As for the locker for the 31-spline 8.8, I heard you have to switch to an open diff then install the locker, more info on that would be cool lol
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Old 07-19-2010
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id do 5.13's if i had the choice.

dont forget driveshaft, steering shaft, possibly your tranny crossmember, leaf hangers and etc.
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Old 07-19-2010
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5.13's rock!!!
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Old 07-19-2010
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5.13s!
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Old 07-21-2010
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Haha we shall see
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Old 07-21-2010
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u only have to replace ur carrier in ur 8.8 if u do a lunch box locker.....but if i were u id get a full carrier locker like a detroit...then u dont have any thing to worry about...
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Old 07-22-2010
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5.38's !!
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Old 07-22-2010
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u only have to replace ur carrier in ur 8.8 if u do a lunch box locker.....but if i were u id get a full carrier locker like a detroit...then u dont have any thing to worry about...
Thanks for the info man

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5.38's !!
Sure thing lol
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Old 08-04-2010
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check out my truck
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Old 08-14-2010
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keep us posted Seb... very interested to see how everything goes for you!!!
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