as far as gearing, you WILL have to have a 5 series gear.....a 5.13 is all you can get for the 8.8 rear end......and you don't even have an 8.8 rear end.....you have the 7.5 rear end, which will not support 35" tires for very long....

 

thats why I was throwing him the ideas for 32's or 33's

 

you can get a taller gear than a 5.13 for an 8.8, you can go all the way to 6.14.

 

x2

http://randysringandpinion.com/Produ...px?ProdID=1956

 

ahhh all i have seen was the 5.13 for the 8.8....

 

A 6.14 gear would be wild.

 

good luck finding a matching gear set for the front though.

 

.. for the front?.. so i have gears to change other then the rear end?.
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THIS IS TOO ALL OF YA!..
ya are on top of the game with information on this lift... and thats awsome!...much thanks!!!
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lol, your 2wd, your fine. its the 4wd people who need to worry about the front.

 

... no i wont be.. but i got a brother who mite ...

 

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so dose this mean i need to get a ranger rear end with a 8.8 rear end and redo the gears in it?
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if that can not be done... what gear would be best for the 7.5's?.. thats if 5.13 gears will only work in 8.8 rear ends

 

... wooo.. got worried there for a whole min.!

 

if you plan on running any tire larger than a 33" tire, you need to upgrade to a 8.8 rear axle.....dont waste your money on a 7.5 axle that WILL break on ya....

get a 8.8 out of an Explorer...

 

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naa im pretty sure that im going 33's now.
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anything i need to worrie about or look for with a rear end swap?
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BTW... NICE RANGER BRO

 

You guys are rough on the kid...

Take a look at pro-comp, rough country, and superlift. They all make kits for the I-beam rangers. They're all drop down kits, but they'll work ok for you I think. Grab yourself 4-6" of lift, stuff some 33's in there, regear with some 4.10's and you'll be good to go.

I'm a '96, 2.3L, 5-speed running a mid-travel kit from Camburg (5" of lift) and 31's with 3.73's... she's a little sluggish, but she get's the job done.


Lift shackles in the rear









A set up like this will get you through quite a bit.

That link someone posted on page one, whining about not searching... was for 2001+ 4wd rangers... not 92-97 2wd trucks...

 

I just found this thread, but my input is this.

If you are hell bent on lifting your truck (which don't get me wrong, I can completely understand, my friends told me the same thing when I wanted to lift mine) it's not going to be even close to 1800 for what you are talking (in terms of putting 38's on there).

If you are getting new everything, new gearing would probably run you 500'ish for install and parts since it's only a 2wD (and yes they do make a 5.13 gear for a 7.5" axle [http://www.ringpinion.com/ProductDet...x?ProdID=1026]).

New tires and wheels would run you probably 900-1000 assuming you go with something like a 33x12.5x15.

A suspension lift that will get you 6" will be over well over 1000 for just parts. Install will probably be 500 ish more (no idea just rough guessing based on what shop around here would charge).

So your looking at least (probably well more then) $3000 grand just to fit 33's.

Not to mention even with all that, daily driving that will be not so much fun, as I think it would start to get real bogged down.

My advice is this, stop and think about what you want. If you after awhile of thinking, it truly is a lifted 95 Ranger, then what do you want to do with it? If you want this thing to be off-roader, you may want to go the route of looking for a 95 4wD to start as a project bogger (or an 80s as it would be cheaper). If you want this to just look mean, and be more of street queen, and you want it to be that big, you will probably want to look for a either a donor engine (be it the 4.0 or the 5.0 for example) and then go from there. I just think that 2.3 would be a dog for a daily driver with 33's, but you guys with the 2.3's can correct me if I'm wrong.

Now, I'm not trying to come down on ya. Just trying to give you some advice based on what I know. Wish ya the best man.

 

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thanksthis post help alot.. as long as the motor can probally take the bogging im kool with it.. and im going to tweak the motor a little bit to get a few more hp out of it
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and ... see.. all my boys have layed out s-10's or full size chevys.. and my first ranger was a road scrapper as well.. but i never had a lifted ranger.. so why not do that to this ranger?...

 

That price is just about right. My lift was $1850 installed @ Camburg, but you can find a rough country 5" or somethin' installed for under a grand.

For me...
Front Suspension: $1850 (installed)
Wheels: $419 (shipped) + $29 lug nuts (shipped)
Tires: $547 (includes mounting and balancing)
Rear shackles: $56 shipped (shipped)
My total: $2901

I didn't regear, so add another $150 or so to that and that's what you're lookin at. Rough Country's only about half as much as my lift installed, but your 33" tires will make up the price diff...

 

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this is a good set up...
how much did this run you?
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. and whats ya side on rear end blocks and " add-a-leaf"... its way cheeper and should work the same...?

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. as for the front.. ill get the coils that i need and i saw that you can get block the the springs too?.
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what do ya think
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ok i got a night class,, so i gtg.. l8

 

Do you have an idea of what you are planning on doing to pep up the Lima 2.3? They really wont make any power. Well cheaply anyhow. Cold air intakes are a joke. The stock header on there now is about the best setup, so anything after market is not worth it and will yield little to no gains. Cam will gain you some depending on the grind, but don't expect it to be a cure.

 

short of hand feeding you everything like we've done already, ill throw some clear and usefu info at you.

for:

~2" of lift = coil spacers, or lift coils. If you go with a coil spacer, also try to get a factory spring to compensate for the fatigue yor spring has now.
3" of lift = PA bodylift.

4" of lift = rough country lift. come with all the rop down brackets, shocks, pitman arm, everything short of alignment cams i believe, which you will need on anything over 2"s. autofab bent beams.

5.5-6" of lift = procomp, superlift, skyjacker. similar to the 4" lift, but includes a few mroe things. also have the ability to upgrade later on to better parts. also included is camburg, big bucks for them to begin with, and then start playin more, and youll get in deep.


Im running 31s on a coil spacer and bodylift. I can and will be running 33s soon with what i have now. before long, ill be getting rid of all this crappy i beam junk, and going solid axle up front. I also have 3.73s in the rear with my 2.3. while the truck was nothing fast to begin with, youll loose 5th pretty much, and passing is eventful. Ill be bumpin up to 4.56, or maybe even 5.13s with the 33s, so i wont have to regear later with the solid axle.

 

** question**
what is the overdrive ratio for the trans. in a 2.3L s-4 95 ranger
. if ya know.. it would help alot
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thanks

 

2.3 I4... not s-4

Not quite sure what the ratio for fifth is, I want to say .79:1. But then I'd just be trying to convince myself I actually remember it. Hopefully someone else can answer it for you.

 

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ok i saw s-4 on other sites and a different forum...i just thout thats what it ment.. my bad on that..

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i been doing some studing on the rear end gear and trying to find one that i mite need... and the use of a gear calc. helps!
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. instead of getting a 8.8 rear end.. could i beef up the rear end that i already have ? ( new gears and stronger axel). it's not going to be a major mudder. it's "just mostly" a street truck.
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and
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if ya know,whats the gear ratio in the 8.8 rear end from the ford SUV'S

 

Just because it's a lot of work. You could save a lot of steps in my opinion starting with a 4x4 (as it's start higher as already stated), and will probably have a bigger engine and possibly if you got real lucky even 4.10's to start with.

But like I said it's your truck. And I can appreciate the desire to take your truck and turn it into what you want.

It varies I believe just like ranger's do. More then likely probably 3.73s. I would guess. Seems like that's a pretty standard gearing for a baseline model.