Axle Shifting Under Load - Page 2 - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


Suspension Tech General discussion of suspension for the Ford Ranger.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #26  
Old 03-19-2007
jrpro130's Avatar
RF Veteran
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Florida
Posts: 5,057
Quote:
Originally Posted by zabeard
taking out the rivets is what sucks
Yup, I was just looking at the price of those skyjackers...and OMG, I think i'm going to do chev springs!!!
Reply With Quote
  #27  
Old 03-19-2007
lifted97ranger's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Charlestown, IN
Posts: 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrpro130
Yup, I was just looking at the price of those skyjackers...and OMG, I think i'm going to do chev springs!!!
the 5" lifted Chevy springs are not cheaper than Skyjacker springs for a Ranger...
Reply With Quote
  #28  
Old 03-19-2007
jrpro130's Avatar
RF Veteran
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Florida
Posts: 5,057
Quote:
Originally Posted by lifted97ranger
the 5" lifted Chevy springs are not cheaper than Skyjacker springs for a Ranger...
Musta been lookin at the wrong links...

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

211.95

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

161.95

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

125.95

All prices are each




I'll probably go chevy.

Maybe I'm looking at the wrong links though...
Reply With Quote
  #29  
Old 03-19-2007
lifted97ranger's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Charlestown, IN
Posts: 1
i sure was.....hmmm.........it will be easier for you to do a Chevy spring swap than me because my front spring hanger is a "v" style hanger....yours is a "u" style hanger......i would have to drill 3 holes you only 2....and you would have less measurements to take...
Reply With Quote
  #30  
Old 03-19-2007
jrpro130's Avatar
RF Veteran
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Florida
Posts: 5,057
Quote:
Originally Posted by lifted97ranger
i sure was.....hmmm.........it will be easier for you to do a Chevy spring swap than me because my front spring hanger is a "v" style hanger....yours is a "u" style hanger......i would have to drill 3 holes you only 2....and you would have less measurements to take...
Sounds good!

Hey, thanks for the help maurice!!! I appreciate it
Reply With Quote
  #31  
Old 03-19-2007
lifted97ranger's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Charlestown, IN
Posts: 1
i aint the only 1 who helped ya......but i can take some credit ..........

when you do the Chevy swap, alls you have to do is move the rear 2 holes to the front 2 holes and then drill 2 new front holes for the front spring hanger.......pretty easy........start with a small bit and work your way up...if not you will break bits right and left.......work up about 3 times......then use nothing less than grade 8 bolts and nuts.....
Reply With Quote
  #32  
Old 03-19-2007
n3elz's Avatar
RF Veteran
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Kennett Square, PA
Posts: 10,620
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrpro130
Haha!!! You did tell me, you did tell me so!!!

But yahoo said it was ok

Well, I think I'm keeping it in for a little bit longer...I just have to figure out this problem and then I'm golden!
LOL! Well, it does sound like something else is up if it's that bad though. Sounds like you're on to some improvements in this thread so good luck with that.
Reply With Quote
  #33  
Old 03-19-2007
zabeard's Avatar
who?
iTrader: (8)
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: IN
Posts: 26,045
Quote:
Originally Posted by lifted97ranger
i aint the only 1 who helped ya......but i can take some credit ..........

when you do the Chevy swap, alls you have to do is move the rear 2 holes to the front 2 holes and then drill 2 new front holes for the front spring hanger.......pretty easy........start with a small bit and work your way up...if not you will break bits right and left.......work up about 3 times......then use nothing less than grade 8 bolts and nuts.....

actually you can only reuse 1 hole and its different per side.

you have to oblong one hole on each of the front brackets inorder to use the 2nd front hold on the frame.

once you get that then you have to drill 2 new front holes.

the top bolt on the front two holes has to be shorter and it runs into the bed bolts, and the gas tank side is another story.

and last but not least make some sort of bracket for the ebrake.

then if you want some piece of mind fix the bumpstops and shocks to the right length.
Reply With Quote
  #34  
Old 03-19-2007
lifted97ranger's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Charlestown, IN
Posts: 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by zabeard
actually you can only reuse 1 hole and its different per side.

you have to oblong one hole on each of the front brackets inorder to use the 2nd front hold on the frame.
huh.....i figured that the 2 holes lined up..........at least you only have to drill 4 holes and make 2 holes bigger....
Reply With Quote
  #35  
Old 03-19-2007
zabeard's Avatar
who?
iTrader: (8)
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: IN
Posts: 26,045
lol yeah you would think but they dont. i have done 3 trucks all the same
Reply With Quote
  #36  
Old 03-19-2007
got-dirty's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Sliding in the skreets
Posts: 3,829
i dont think you want 5.5 chevys, those would really show youre 2wd status. thats a lot of lift.
Reply With Quote
  #37  
Old 03-19-2007
jrpro130's Avatar
RF Veteran
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Florida
Posts: 5,057
Quote:
Originally Posted by got-dirty
i dont think you want 5.5 chevys, those would really show youre 2wd status. thats a lot of lift.
I'm on aal, 6400 shackle, and aal right now...i could use 1 more inch too...

I think thats what zach has?
Reply With Quote
  #38  
Old 03-19-2007
jrpro130's Avatar
RF Veteran
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Florida
Posts: 5,057
I think I fixed it, u bolts are as tight as I could get them. Its not making any noises or shifting...yet.

My steering wheel is straight.

Looks like I just had loose u bolts...

So far, I'm keeping ht elocker if I don't have any more problems. It rides 100 percent better now!
Reply With Quote
  #39  
Old 03-19-2007
got-dirty's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Sliding in the skreets
Posts: 3,829
i think zach has 4". the other guy doing a coil sprung 44 solid axle right now is running those chevy 5.5s on his for the rear. we ran them on the chevy that we just finished. it will give you about 5.5, plus the already 2-3 that stock chevy springs give you.
Reply With Quote
  #40  
Old 03-19-2007
zabeard's Avatar
who?
iTrader: (8)
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: IN
Posts: 26,045
actually mine are the 3.5"-4" springs the 5.5" ones are huge, although they would work for me now.
Reply With Quote
  #41  
Old 03-19-2007
lifted97ranger's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Charlestown, IN
Posts: 1
yea Scott is running the 5.5" springs and he has massive rear lift........if you install those on your truck Ricky, you would have serious rake...
Reply With Quote
  #42  
Old 03-19-2007
jrpro130's Avatar
RF Veteran
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Florida
Posts: 5,057
Quote:
Originally Posted by zabeard
actually mine are the 3.5"-4" springs the 5.5" ones are huge, although they would work for me now.
Plus I have the chevy shackle.

That mod is still far out, I have a lot of things to go...

exhaust, tuner, bedliner, toolbox, more painting, backup lights, etc, etc...the list goes on!
Reply With Quote
  #43  
Old 03-19-2007
zabeard's Avatar
who?
iTrader: (8)
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: IN
Posts: 26,045
i have the chevy shackle as well.
Reply With Quote
  #44  
Old 03-19-2007
V8 Level II's Avatar
RF Veteran
iTrader: (4)
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Michigan
Posts: 7,831
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrpro130
I think I fixed it, u bolts are as tight as I could get them. Its not making any noises or shifting...yet.

My steering wheel is straight.

Looks like I just had loose u bolts...
You need to check the lift blocks. They should have a locating hole on the top that engages the center spring bolt. Then there should be a pin sticking out of the bottom of the block that engages the hole in the axle perch. If your axle is shifting, something that locates the axle is not staying engaged. Having the u-bolts loose just makes it easier for the shift to happen.

It is possible that the pin has sheared off of the block or that the hole on the opposite side is elongated or that the bolt through the spring pack is missing or damaged. You really need to fix the root cause instead of just overtorquing the u-bolts. Without the locating pins and holes, the spool will eventually yank it loose again when you go around a corner.

The torque spec on the u-bolt nuts is 76 lb-ft.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
site taking forever to load/partial load morris Ranger-Forums Office 59 09-06-2011 12:59 AM
Jerking under load leadfoot General Technical & Electrical 2 04-10-2010 07:39 PM
Cured my hesitation/miss issues under load!!! Fx4wannabe01 4.0L OHV & SOHC V6 Tech 6 09-20-2009 07:34 PM
Knocking when under load nissanracer007 General Technical & Electrical 0 06-09-2008 02:03 PM
rattling noise b/w 2k and 4k rpms under load? Edge of Darkness 4.0L OHV & SOHC V6 Tech 12 04-20-2006 08:10 PM


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:15 PM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.