Yup, I was just looking at the price of those skyjackers...and OMG, I think i'm going to do chev springs!!!

 

the 5" lifted Chevy springs are not cheaper than Skyjacker springs for a Ranger...

 

Musta been lookin at the wrong links...

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

211.95

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

161.95

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

125.95

All prices are each




I'll probably go chevy.

Maybe I'm looking at the wrong links though...

 

i sure was.....hmmm.........it will be easier for you to do a Chevy spring swap than me because my front spring hanger is a "v" style hanger....yours is a "u" style hanger......i would have to drill 3 holes you only 2....and you would have less measurements to take...

 

Sounds good!

Hey, thanks for the help maurice!!! I appreciate it

 

i aint the only 1 who helped ya......but i can take some credit ..........

when you do the Chevy swap, alls you have to do is move the rear 2 holes to the front 2 holes and then drill 2 new front holes for the front spring hanger.......pretty easy........start with a small bit and work your way up...if not you will break bits right and left.......work up about 3 times......then use nothing less than grade 8 bolts and nuts.....

 

LOL! Well, it does sound like something else is up if it's that bad though. Sounds like you're on to some improvements in this thread so good luck with that.

 

actually you can only reuse 1 hole and its different per side.

you have to oblong one hole on each of the front brackets inorder to use the 2nd front hold on the frame.

once you get that then you have to drill 2 new front holes.

the top bolt on the front two holes has to be shorter and it runs into the bed bolts, and the gas tank side is another story.

and last but not least make some sort of bracket for the ebrake.

then if you want some piece of mind fix the bumpstops and shocks to the right length.

 

huh.....i figured that the 2 holes lined up..........at least you only have to drill 4 holes and make 2 holes bigger....

 

lol yeah you would think but they dont. i have done 3 trucks all the same

 

i dont think you want 5.5 chevys, those would really show youre 2wd status. thats a lot of lift.

 

I'm on aal, 6400 shackle, and aal right now...i could use 1 more inch too...

I think thats what zach has?

 

I think I fixed it, u bolts are as tight as I could get them. Its not making any noises or shifting...yet.

My steering wheel is straight.

Looks like I just had loose u bolts...

So far, I'm keeping ht elocker if I don't have any more problems. It rides 100 percent better now!

 

i think zach has 4". the other guy doing a coil sprung 44 solid axle right now is running those chevy 5.5s on his for the rear. we ran them on the chevy that we just finished. it will give you about 5.5, plus the already 2-3 that stock chevy springs give you.

 

actually mine are the 3.5"-4" springs the 5.5" ones are huge, although they would work for me now.

 

yea Scott is running the 5.5" springs and he has massive rear lift........if you install those on your truck Ricky, you would have serious rake...

 

Plus I have the chevy shackle.

That mod is still far out, I have a lot of things to go...

exhaust, tuner, bedliner, toolbox, more painting, backup lights, etc, etc...the list goes on!

 

i have the chevy shackle as well.

 

You need to check the lift blocks. They should have a locating hole on the top that engages the center spring bolt. Then there should be a pin sticking out of the bottom of the block that engages the hole in the axle perch. If your axle is shifting, something that locates the axle is not staying engaged. Having the u-bolts loose just makes it easier for the shift to happen.

It is possible that the pin has sheared off of the block or that the hole on the opposite side is elongated or that the bolt through the spring pack is missing or damaged. You really need to fix the root cause instead of just overtorquing the u-bolts. Without the locating pins and holes, the spool will eventually yank it loose again when you go around a corner.

The torque spec on the u-bolt nuts is 76 lb-ft.