Broke leaf spring bracket and shackle, 02 ranger
#1
06-09-2017
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Broke leaf spring bracket and shackle, 02 ranger
Broke a spring shackle mounting bracket on my '02 ranger xlt 4.0 4x4 4 door. Want to replace brackets and shackles on both sides. I'm going to take a guess that original Ford replacements are neither the best nor the cheapest. I want good quality without premium price.
Who makes the best, their price and where to buy?
i've read it's better to drill them out and I've read it's better to grind them off.
i'd like opinions on both.
Also, do I need to remove anything to do the job? Gas tank....bed and so forth
Who makes the best, their price and where to buy?
i've read it's better to drill them out and I've read it's better to grind them off.
i'd like opinions on both.
Also, do I need to remove anything to do the job? Gas tank....bed and so forth
#2
06-09-2017
Yes, do all 4 at the same time
Remove the bed, 6 bed bolts plus the tail light wiring plug and gas tank filler hose(3 screws).
Wouldn't even try it another way, even WITH a lift
Couple of things you can run into, uncooperative shackle/leaf bolts, so you have to torch out the rubber to remove them, if bed is in place keep running water above that spot or you WILL blister the paint.
Grinder is faster than drilling the rivets, if you use a drill use a large bit, you are trying to cut off the head not drill into the shaft of the rivet.
Saw-all with metal cutting blade or good hack saw and a BIG can of elbow grease to cut off bolts that are stuck
Big hammer and drift(metal rod)
I have mostly used the Dorman hangers and have no complaints about quality or price
Get a bottle of Naval jelly, use it on the frame after old hangers are off, inside and out, use a brush to put it on then brush it a few times over the next 10 minutes or so then rinse it off with water.
Don't get it on you hands or any painted surfaces
This removes surface rust and changes any remaining rust to an inert compound
Dry area and paint it then put on new hangers
Gas tank can be removed to do drivers side front but I was always able to get my hand and wrenches in to do without removing the tank
With bed off check rear brake line, where it runs between gas tank and frame rail, tends to rust out there and can be very scary when it does, front brakes still work but pedal goes to the floor each time you press it
Inspect filler/vent hose, they crack and leak
Remove the bed, 6 bed bolts plus the tail light wiring plug and gas tank filler hose(3 screws).
Wouldn't even try it another way, even WITH a lift
Couple of things you can run into, uncooperative shackle/leaf bolts, so you have to torch out the rubber to remove them, if bed is in place keep running water above that spot or you WILL blister the paint.
Grinder is faster than drilling the rivets, if you use a drill use a large bit, you are trying to cut off the head not drill into the shaft of the rivet.
Saw-all with metal cutting blade or good hack saw and a BIG can of elbow grease to cut off bolts that are stuck
Big hammer and drift(metal rod)
I have mostly used the Dorman hangers and have no complaints about quality or price
Get a bottle of Naval jelly, use it on the frame after old hangers are off, inside and out, use a brush to put it on then brush it a few times over the next 10 minutes or so then rinse it off with water.
Don't get it on you hands or any painted surfaces
This removes surface rust and changes any remaining rust to an inert compound
Dry area and paint it then put on new hangers
Gas tank can be removed to do drivers side front but I was always able to get my hand and wrenches in to do without removing the tank
With bed off check rear brake line, where it runs between gas tank and frame rail, tends to rust out there and can be very scary when it does, front brakes still work but pedal goes to the floor each time you press it
Inspect filler/vent hose, they crack and leak
Last edited by RonD; 06-09-2017 at 03:41 PM.
#3
06-09-2017
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Illinois
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Yes, do all 4 at the same time
Remove the bed, 6 bed bolts plus the tail light wiring plug and gas tank filler hose(3 screws).
Wouldn't even try it another way, even WITH a lift
Couple of things you can run into, uncooperative shackle/leaf bolts, so you have to torch out the rubber to remove them, if bed is in place keep running water above that spot or you WILL blister the paint.
Grinder is faster than drilling the rivets, if you use a drill use a large bit, you are trying to cut off the head not drill into the shaft of the rivet.
Saw-all with metal cutting blade or good hack saw and a BIG can of elbow grease to cut off bolts that are stuck
Big hammer and drift(metal rod)
I have mostly used the Dorman hangers and have no complaints about quality or price
With bed off check rear brake line, where it runs between gas tank and frame rail, tends to rust out there and can be very scary when it does, front brakes still work but pedal goes to the floor each time you press it
Inspect filler/vent hose, they crack and leak
Remove the bed, 6 bed bolts plus the tail light wiring plug and gas tank filler hose(3 screws).
Wouldn't even try it another way, even WITH a lift
Couple of things you can run into, uncooperative shackle/leaf bolts, so you have to torch out the rubber to remove them, if bed is in place keep running water above that spot or you WILL blister the paint.
Grinder is faster than drilling the rivets, if you use a drill use a large bit, you are trying to cut off the head not drill into the shaft of the rivet.
Saw-all with metal cutting blade or good hack saw and a BIG can of elbow grease to cut off bolts that are stuck
Big hammer and drift(metal rod)
I have mostly used the Dorman hangers and have no complaints about quality or price
With bed off check rear brake line, where it runs between gas tank and frame rail, tends to rust out there and can be very scary when it does, front brakes still work but pedal goes to the floor each time you press it
Inspect filler/vent hose, they crack and leak
#4
06-11-2017
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Illinois
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the link you posted sold already.
as for the bed coming off, that would be a great time to remove some of the massive amounts of rust on the frame, and replace the tank straps?
Would you advise replacing the 2 front mounts as well?
when I bought the truck it needed just about everything on the underside. Ball joint, replaced all 4 shocks with 4600 Bilsteins
. I think instead of fixing things he just kept throwing new tires at it. They were all scalloped and he had 2013 tires diagonally mounted...one on front left and one on rear right. Then 2 2014 tires diagonal the other way.
after I put new shocks, ball joint, tires and aligned on it it rode and drove like brand new. Then this happens. But it'll be cheaper and as I said, I can easily get at that rusty frame.
I mentioned tank straps. Do you recommend replacing them while it's open?
forgot to mention I replaced the rear brake lines as well. And front wheel hub assemblies. Timken.
also new brakes all around.
know of another dealer selling kits by Dorman?
#5
06-11-2017
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Illinois
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Yes, do all 4 at the same time
Remove the bed, 6 bed bolts plus the tail light wiring plug and gas tank filler hose(3 screws).
Wouldn't even try it another way, even WITH a lift
Couple of things you can run into, uncooperative shackle/leaf bolts, so you have to torch out the rubber to remove them, if bed is in place keep running water above that spot or you WILL blister the paint.
Grinder is faster than drilling the rivets, if you use a drill use a large bit, you are trying to cut off the head not drill into the shaft of the rivet.
Saw-all with metal cutting blade or good hack saw and a BIG can of elbow grease to cut off bolts that are stuck
Big hammer and drift(metal rod)
I have mostly used the Dorman hangers and have no complaints about quality or price
Get a bottle of Naval jelly, use it on the frame after old hangers are off, inside and out, use a brush to put it on then brush it a few times over the next 10 minutes or so then rinse it off with water.
Don't get it on you hands or any painted surfaces
This removes surface rust and changes any remaining rust to an inert compound
Dry area and paint it then put on new hangers
Gas tank can be removed to do drivers side front but I was always able to get my hand and wrenches in to do without removing the tank
With bed off check rear brake line, where it runs between gas tank and frame rail, tends to rust out there and can be very scary when it does, front brakes still work but pedal goes to the floor each time you press it
Inspect filler/vent hose, they crack and leak
Remove the bed, 6 bed bolts plus the tail light wiring plug and gas tank filler hose(3 screws).
Wouldn't even try it another way, even WITH a lift
Couple of things you can run into, uncooperative shackle/leaf bolts, so you have to torch out the rubber to remove them, if bed is in place keep running water above that spot or you WILL blister the paint.
Grinder is faster than drilling the rivets, if you use a drill use a large bit, you are trying to cut off the head not drill into the shaft of the rivet.
Saw-all with metal cutting blade or good hack saw and a BIG can of elbow grease to cut off bolts that are stuck
Big hammer and drift(metal rod)
I have mostly used the Dorman hangers and have no complaints about quality or price
Get a bottle of Naval jelly, use it on the frame after old hangers are off, inside and out, use a brush to put it on then brush it a few times over the next 10 minutes or so then rinse it off with water.
Don't get it on you hands or any painted surfaces
This removes surface rust and changes any remaining rust to an inert compound
Dry area and paint it then put on new hangers
Gas tank can be removed to do drivers side front but I was always able to get my hand and wrenches in to do without removing the tank
With bed off check rear brake line, where it runs between gas tank and frame rail, tends to rust out there and can be very scary when it does, front brakes still work but pedal goes to the floor each time you press it
Inspect filler/vent hose, they crack and leak
as for the bed coming off, that would be a great time to remove some of the massive amounts of rust on the frame, and replace the tank straps?
Would you advise replacing the 2 front mounts as well?
when I bought the truck it needed just about everything on the underside. Ball joint, replaced all 4 shocks with 4600 Bilsteins
. I think instead of fixing things he just kept throwing new tires at it. They were all scalloped and he had 2013 tires diagonally mounted...one on front left and one on rear right. Then 2 2014 tires diagonal the other way.
after I put new shocks, ball joint, tires and aligned on it it rode and drove like brand new. Then this happens. But it'll be cheaper and as I said, I can easily get at that rusty frame.
I mentioned tank straps. Do you recommend replacing them while it's open?
forgot to mention I replaced the rear brake lines as well. And front wheel hub assemblies. Timken.
also new brakes all around.
know of another dealer selling kits by Dorman?
#6
06-11-2017
After new leaf springs are on I recommend this low cost item from Walmart. Superior Automotive Overleaf Helper Spring 3" Wide Only (11-1035)
What this will do with your new leaf springs is make them last longer. Make loads lower your bed less. I'm using these to give life back into my old leaf springs. Wasn't in the budget to replace everything. The rest looks good. Just net to wire brush the rust of a paint it when done. If I could afford new leafs I would still use these to extend the life of the new springs. Plus they are cheap. 1 goes on each side. So you have a set for that low price. Just part of my project I wanted to share.
What this will do with your new leaf springs is make them last longer. Make loads lower your bed less. I'm using these to give life back into my old leaf springs. Wasn't in the budget to replace everything. The rest looks good. Just net to wire brush the rust of a paint it when done. If I could afford new leafs I would still use these to extend the life of the new springs. Plus they are cheap. 1 goes on each side. So you have a set for that low price. Just part of my project I wanted to share.
#7
06-11-2017
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Location: Illinois
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After new leaf springs are on I recommend this low cost item from Walmart. Superior Automotive Overleaf Helper Spring 3" Wide Only (11-1035)
What this will do with your new leaf springs is make them last longer. Make loads lower your bed less. I'm using these to give life back into my old leaf springs. Wasn't in the budget to replace everything. The rest looks good. Just net to wire brush the rust of a paint it when done. If I could afford new leafs I would still use these to extend the life of the new springs. Plus they are cheap. 1 goes on each side. So you have a set for that low price. Just part of my project I wanted to share.
What this will do with your new leaf springs is make them last longer. Make loads lower your bed less. I'm using these to give life back into my old leaf springs. Wasn't in the budget to replace everything. The rest looks good. Just net to wire brush the rust of a paint it when done. If I could afford new leafs I would still use these to extend the life of the new springs. Plus they are cheap. 1 goes on each side. So you have a set for that low price. Just part of my project I wanted to share.
I was not planning to replace the springs. Also, I think someone added the leaf you are referring to. I'll go take a picture so you can see what it has.
#8
06-11-2017
No.2Ranger
I thought the entire back end stuff was bad. I thought you had to replace all by the posts. If you have the thing I'm talking about great. I have done plenty of research on the spring helpers. They make a huge difference in hauling a load. Helper springs are designed for the top or under. I'm doing top to hold the break in tight.
I thought the entire back end stuff was bad. I thought you had to replace all by the posts. If you have the thing I'm talking about great. I have done plenty of research on the spring helpers. They make a huge difference in hauling a load. Helper springs are designed for the top or under. I'm doing top to hold the break in tight.
#9
06-11-2017
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Pics of underside of '02 Ranger
[QUOTE=New2Ford;2121383]After new leaf springs are on I recommend this low cost item from Walmart. Superior Automotive Overleaf Helper Spring 3" Wide Only (11-1035)
What this will do with your new leaf springs is make them last longer. Make loads lower your bed less. I'm using these to give life back into my old leaf springs. Wasn't in the budget to replace everything. The rest looks good. Just net to wire brush the rust of a paint it when done. If I could afford new leafs I would still use these to extend the life of the new springs. Plus they are cheap. 1 goes on each side. So you have a set for that low price. Just part of my project I wanted to
What this will do with your new leaf springs is make them last longer. Make loads lower your bed less. I'm using these to give life back into my old leaf springs. Wasn't in the budget to replace everything. The rest looks good. Just net to wire brush the rust of a paint it when done. If I could afford new leafs I would still use these to extend the life of the new springs. Plus they are cheap. 1 goes on each side. So you have a set for that low price. Just part of my project I wanted to
#10
06-11-2017
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#11
06-11-2017
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Pics of underside of '02 Ranger
[QUOTE=New2Ford;2121383]After new leaf springs are on I recommend this low cost item from Walmart. Superior Automotive Overleaf Helper Spring 3" Wide Only (11-1035)
What this will do with your new leaf springs is make them last longer. Make loads lower your bed less. I'm using these to give life back into my old leaf springs. Wasn't in the budget to replace everything. The rest looks good. Just net to wire brush the rust of a paint it when done. If I could afford new leafs I would still use these to extend the life of the new springs. Plus they are cheap. 1 goes on each side. So you have a set for that low price. Just part of my project I wanted to
What this will do with your new leaf springs is make them last longer. Make loads lower your bed less. I'm using these to give life back into my old leaf springs. Wasn't in the budget to replace everything. The rest looks good. Just net to wire brush the rust of a paint it when done. If I could afford new leafs I would still use these to extend the life of the new springs. Plus they are cheap. 1 goes on each side. So you have a set for that low price. Just part of my project I wanted to
#12
06-11-2017
#13
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#14
06-29-2017
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2 issues.
I purchased naval jelly to treat my rusty 02 ranger frame while I have the bed off to replace shackles and brackets.
I read a post somewhere last night while trying to get a better understanding of the situation...don't want to have to do this again for several years . The posted advice was to use Por15 after the NJ, then paint with rust restorer.
Has anyone done this and is it superior to Navel Jelly alone?
either way I am going with Naval Jelly, but if Por15 on top of that is better, I want the best I can do.
second, I'm having difficulty locating the parts I need. Seems every link, whether it be ebay or a parts company what they advertise ends up being for another truck.
does anyone have a link to Dorman shackles and shackle brackets for my 2002 ranger 4x4 4.0 xlt 4door.
I would very much appreciate your help. There are some things I am good at and they do not include online shopping.
I purchased naval jelly to treat my rusty 02 ranger frame while I have the bed off to replace shackles and brackets.
I read a post somewhere last night while trying to get a better understanding of the situation...don't want to have to do this again for several years . The posted advice was to use Por15 after the NJ, then paint with rust restorer.
Has anyone done this and is it superior to Navel Jelly alone?
either way I am going with Naval Jelly, but if Por15 on top of that is better, I want the best I can do.
second, I'm having difficulty locating the parts I need. Seems every link, whether it be ebay or a parts company what they advertise ends up being for another truck.
does anyone have a link to Dorman shackles and shackle brackets for my 2002 ranger 4x4 4.0 xlt 4door.
I would very much appreciate your help. There are some things I am good at and they do not include online shopping.
#15
06-29-2017
Dorman shackles
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...lVehicle=false
I hope this hopes. Hey we are in the same state. The website said it will fit your Ranger.
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...lVehicle=false
I hope this hopes. Hey we are in the same state. The website said it will fit your Ranger.
#16
06-29-2017
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Dorman shackles
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...lVehicle=false
I hope this hopes. Hey we are in the same state. The website said it will fit your Ranger.
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...lVehicle=false
I hope this hopes. Hey we are in the same state. The website said it will fit your Ranger.
#18
06-30-2017
Never used Por15 but it looks like a good product
Rust is FIRE, lol, well the same chemical reaction, oxidation, as fire, just much slower and way easier to start
When most bare metals come into contact with air(oxygen) they will start to oxidize(burn), and thats rust.
If you add water(H2O) then it speeds up the process, or salts and water get a very fast "burn" going.
Once a piece of metal starts to "burn" its very hard to "put out".
Naval Jelly or similar products with Phosphoric Acid can "put out" the fire.
After the "fire is out" you need to prevent oxygen from coming in contact with the metal again, that's what paint is for, coats the metal so no contact with the air, so no oxidation.
But not all paints stick to all metals, you need a paint/coating that sticks to the metal.
And it must allow regular paint to stick to it.
Reason being is that paint or coatings that stick to metal can NOT hold up well to sunlight or road debris, Primers are great at sticking to metal, but don't last on their own
That's where Paint comes in, it can't stick to metal but it can stick to a Primer or coating.
Car makers Prime a vehicle, then paint it, then clear coat it
If there was a way to combine prime and paint or paint and clear coat or all three then they would have found it by now, lol, it would save them LITERALLY millions of dollars a month.
So no short cuts, Por15 can go on as a Primer if it is Paint-able, because you MUST paint to seal out oxygen.
Clear coat does help protect the paint, but optional.
Rust is FIRE, lol, well the same chemical reaction, oxidation, as fire, just much slower and way easier to start
When most bare metals come into contact with air(oxygen) they will start to oxidize(burn), and thats rust.
If you add water(H2O) then it speeds up the process, or salts and water get a very fast "burn" going.
Once a piece of metal starts to "burn" its very hard to "put out".
Naval Jelly or similar products with Phosphoric Acid can "put out" the fire.
After the "fire is out" you need to prevent oxygen from coming in contact with the metal again, that's what paint is for, coats the metal so no contact with the air, so no oxidation.
But not all paints stick to all metals, you need a paint/coating that sticks to the metal.
And it must allow regular paint to stick to it.
Reason being is that paint or coatings that stick to metal can NOT hold up well to sunlight or road debris, Primers are great at sticking to metal, but don't last on their own
That's where Paint comes in, it can't stick to metal but it can stick to a Primer or coating.
Car makers Prime a vehicle, then paint it, then clear coat it
If there was a way to combine prime and paint or paint and clear coat or all three then they would have found it by now, lol, it would save them LITERALLY millions of dollars a month.
So no short cuts, Por15 can go on as a Primer if it is Paint-able, because you MUST paint to seal out oxygen.
Clear coat does help protect the paint, but optional.
#19
06-30-2017
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#20
07-01-2017
Use a Primer paint then Rust-Oleum
Before and after treatment here: Naval Jelly VS Electro - Ford Bronco Forum
You don't need THAT MUCH naval jelly, lol, as shown in above thread
Coat the area using a brush, let it sit for 10 minutes then use the brush to move it around and let it sit again for 10 minutes
Rinse with water.
Repeat as you see fit
The phosphoric acid converts some of the rust to inert iron compound so might look different but isn't rust
After it dries completely, prime it and then paint it
There is no such thing as primer/paint, there are claims that there is, but as said, if it were possible car makers would be using it, they have the most skin in the game in painting metal
Before and after treatment here: Naval Jelly VS Electro - Ford Bronco Forum
You don't need THAT MUCH naval jelly, lol, as shown in above thread
Coat the area using a brush, let it sit for 10 minutes then use the brush to move it around and let it sit again for 10 minutes
Rinse with water.
Repeat as you see fit
The phosphoric acid converts some of the rust to inert iron compound so might look different but isn't rust
After it dries completely, prime it and then paint it
There is no such thing as primer/paint, there are claims that there is, but as said, if it were possible car makers would be using it, they have the most skin in the game in painting metal
#21
07-01-2017
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#22
07-01-2017
#23
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Temperature was in mid to upper 70s today.
I left the NJ on for more than 20 minutes, and after appling it I went back to where I began and worked it around with a brush all the way to where I stopped. Did this 3 or 4 times over the majority of it. Then rinsed with hose.
Also, after scraping and wire brushing yesterday I power washed it and made sure it was totally dry, giving it plenty of time in the sun today with a large fan as well. I also used compressed air to make sure no debris or water was hiding in nooks and crannies.
I left the NJ on for more than 20 minutes, and after appling it I went back to where I began and worked it around with a brush all the way to where I stopped. Did this 3 or 4 times over the majority of it. Then rinsed with hose.
Also, after scraping and wire brushing yesterday I power washed it and made sure it was totally dry, giving it plenty of time in the sun today with a large fan as well. I also used compressed air to make sure no debris or water was hiding in nooks and crannies.
#24
07-02-2017
#25
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