I bought a 2003 Ford Ranger edge, it has a 3 inch body lift and it is on 33's. (How I bought it) I don't know much else about the suspension set up and lift setup. I do know that whenever I go over the slightest bump on the road my tires come off of the ground, and when they come back into contact with the ground it jerks the car from my tires being in the air. I want to fix that problem, but I do not know what it is. I also want to turn it into an offroad vehicle too. I don't know what suspension to get for it. Please help, I want to get this done before winter comes.

 

Welcome to the forum

Body lift is just what it says, the body is unbolted from the frame, and in your case 3" spacers are added between frame and body then it is bolted to frame again, this doesn't change frame ground clearance but does allow for larger tires, and larger tires do increase ground clearance.
Axles, frame and drivetrain stay the same distance apart

Body lift doesn't change suspension at all so there may be other modifications you are unaware of.

"Ride" of a vehicle is based on "Sprung weight" and the springs for that weight
The wheels, tires and axles are "un-sprung weight"

Frame, body, engine, trans, driver and passengers are "sprung weight", that's the weight the suspension is holding up.

For a softer ride you want springs matched to weight, stiffer ride comes from too much spring for the weight.
The heavier the vehicle, sprung weight, the easier it is to get a good ride, an old Cadillac would tip the scales at 5,000 pounds, hard to get that much weight moving(in any direction) so it absorbed bumps pretty good, lol.
3,000 pound Rangers are not so lucky, but get better MPG

And Pick up trucks in general are tough because bed weigh can vary by 1,000+ Pounds, 1/2 ton rating

Manufacturer just installs leaf springs capable of 1,000 added pounds and off it goes
Which does make rear stiff.
You can add 500+ pounds in the bed, lol, for a better ride

Or use softer leaf springs with an overload leaf added, the overload leaf doesn't touch the frame until load weight exceeds softer spring weight rating, so you have the softer ride but can still carry the 1,000 pounds if you need to.

Front springs, coils or torsion, can also be over sprung
With torsion people often over tighten them to get lift in the front, and this would of course make for much stiffer ride.
So say front springs are setup for 1,500 pounds and you changed it to 2,000 pound setup, yes vehicle is lifted, but......there is not enough sprung weight to absorb any bumps, you feel every little bump

Shocks..................
Shocks are there to prevent the springs from continuing to bounce every time you hit a bump.
They don't support any weight
They are, in simple terms, a tube filled with oil, inside there are plates with small holes, as the shocks rod and plates move the oil is forced thru these holes which slows down the movement of the rod and also prevents re-bound effect so springs don't keep bouncing.
The size of the holes and number of plates matter, you want larger holes for smaller bumps so springs can absorb the bump, not pass it on to the frame and body, then progressively smaller holes as shock gets compressed more, larger bumps, lol.

If you get "off-road" shocks they are usually smaller holes so stiffer but recover faster, so made for many many bumps in a row, i.e. off-road travel.

Tire pressure..............
First stop in ride quality, tire pressure is set by driver, not tire maker, lower pressure makes for softer ride.
High pressure prevents side wall deflection so bumps are not absorb at all by the tire, bump goes direct to springs and frame/body.
Lower the pressure, some sidewall deflection is wanted/needed especially on larger tires since they weigh so much.

Remove front shocks, at least one end of each shock
Push down on front bumper, should easily bounce, if not there is way too much spring, if it bounces OK the shocks are too stiff for what YOU WANT

Rear will be too stiff regardless but if front shocks were too stiff then change all 4 if the same.