Well, they're on! A 6 hour ordeal -- I've never done this before and I realize it would be easier for many of you. Still, very happy with the time spent!

You need to grind a bit off the bottom flange on the lower arm on the back edge or you lose turning radius. I did that after they were installed. I unclipped the brake lines where they are secured where the hardline meets the flexline and dropped them down a bit so I didn't need longer lines (otherwise I would have).

Ball joint separation was a pain. At 50K miles they are pretty cemented in there. I tore every boot so this fall I'll be replacing them all (and the upper arms). I need better tools and DIFFERENT size separators for the different size joints!

Rides and drives great. No change in steering feel or even centering. I'll get the alignment checked, but I'll adjust the toe-in myself first.

I'll post more later -- I have to design some invites for my daughters graduation tonight. But here's some pics.

Pic 1: General 3/4 front view

Pic 2: Side view -- a little higher in the front but not bad. These t-bars still haven't settled out so we'll see what happens.

Pic 3: 3/4 rear view

Pic 4: Looking down the bottom (sorry for the tilt -- tired and not paying attention) -- nice clean line. I still like getting rid of the shock mounts sticking down on the axle in the back. But that's off topic, lol.

NEXT: this week I mount the 35" BFG's!

 

looks really good john but it looks about like my truck with the body lift.... so i geuss i am wondering if u have noticed any more body roll or drastic leans in turns

 

looks good.

 

Not so far. I haven't "kicked" it much. I know when I lifted the rear I can feel a bit more oversteer on hard cornering from the sway. Not bad though. Aftermarket shocks that are stiffer help all that a LOT. My RSX damp the truck very well. If you have stock shocks ditch them for something better.

You get more clearance under the truck with the suspension lift, though. The spindle lift in particular opens up the area under the front crossmember. I'll get another 2" under the truck from the 35's.

 

yea i hope to up grade to those rancho adjustable shocks in a couple weeks and i really want to up grade the tires
https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ead.php?t=5876

 

How your tires look little...

But looks good tho john...

 

you look like a regular ol' hillbilly now it will look WAY better with the tires

 

good job sir. looks nice. what's up with the center caps on the wheels? you didn't get the m/t caps?

 

The M/T caps rust very easily and the Pine Barrens have spotted them. I decided that the stock caps look better since they don't rust!

You'd probably never have a problem with the M/T caps -- but they are thinly plated steel and the acid waters of Wharton were making each minor scratch a rust and corrosion mark and I got tired of trying to fight it, Gary.

Thanks for the comments everybody! Yeah, man, hillbilly cadillac it is, lol!

 

that looks awesome john... when you get the 35's are you getting rid of your 31's? if so can you save one for me as a spare so i have a matching spare?

 

Probably, Billy, but not right away. I'm keeping them as a "fallback position" in case anything doesn't work out with the 35's. If I'm going to "retire the tires" I'll let you have one.

 

So how uch total lift is in that thing now John? Looks like 4 or 5 inches overall.

 

About 5" overall in front, 4" in back -- good call.

3" in front from spindles plus 2" t-bar crank.

2" more in back from modified block, 1" from longer shackle (2" longer shackle), and about an inch from the modified spring pack and thicker rear axle tube..

 

awesome john

 

very Nice sir John. Very nice.

 

Yes, but it still won't keep up with your 'Stang!

 

Looks very good John, and thanks for your help on that driveshaft issue, I feel so much better having talked to you about it. Now I am gonna go start my spindle install.

 

what's a pine barren? someone who's cornered the market on pine trees? why would they/he/she care if your caps were rusty?

 

Congrats John! Hurry up and mount the 35's and go drive over a bunch of stuff, lol... Is that your new skid plate too? I hadn't seen any pics of it, it looks good.

 

damn john you never cease to amaze me. that is awasome.... those are 31s?..... imo i would go with 33/12.50s so you can still get some flex out of that beast.... 35s might rub allot and all that stuff but its your call.... looks great btw

 

The 35's were free, Kurt -- hard to pass up. So for the cost of mounting them I can try them out. I realize they may be sub-optimal, even with the lift I've added. Still, what the hey, I want to give it a try!

And Gary...what can I say? That "pine baron" joke was worthy (read: down to the level of) my own humor!

I'm going to do a quick Wharton trip sometime in the next week, probably take a vacation day, and see how they do. I'm putting them on TOMORROW!

Keep in mind all, that full up travel in the front is 3" below where it was, and so too in the back with the thicker springs, axle and 2" more block. My 31's won't "stuff" anymore in the back. They hit the top of travel about 2" below the flare -- perfect for 35's.

The front still remains to be seen. I'm not worried about the rear at all.

Oh, and yes, Owen, that's the new skid plate. I posted on it awhile back but it wasn't a "big topic", lol. It was fabbed by my friends in the fab shop and it's a fabulous piece to me (I tested it quite a bit at Centralia and it worked just fine).

 

looks awsome John!

 

wow John! Very cool....i'm lovin it...

 

I've got the same spindles on my 03 Edge...I am having some problems with my front brakes. I also unhooked the brake lines from the frame. When I make a hard right turn and go straight, as I stop my brakes kinda kick back and make a grinding sound. Took it to Meneike and the changed the fluid...no visible problems with pads etc. Think the brake line may still be stretching...I plan on ordering some steel lines from Camburg soon.

Looks good...good luck with the 35's...mines already slow enough with the 31"

 

It looks to me like the little rubber bump stop on the upper arm hits the back of the brake calipers. Mine aren't making that sound, but I think that's touching on hard turns.

I ground a little less than optimum off of the lower a-arm and maybe that's the difference -- mine don't quite get there.

Since the caliper is "floating", any pressure on it gets translated into pressure on the brake pads.

New lines are a good idea and I'll pursue that eventually myself -- but I don't think that's your problem.