FasTrax Camber/Caster gauges anyone ever user one? - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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Old 07-18-2008
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FasTrax Camber/Caster gauges anyone ever user one?

FasTrax(TM) Adjustable Camber/Caster Gauge
This great tool is a must for your garage and can’t be beat at the track. Portable, hands-free alignment can be done quickly and easily with the FasTrax™ Adjustable Camber/Caster Gauge. This tool will help you fine tune your alignment for optimal tracking and handling while minimizing alignment headaches.
-Includes gauge and wheel mount
-Displays Camber ±4° / Caster -4° to +12°.
- Saves time and tires.





I am thinking about getting one instead of paying to have mine done.
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Old 07-18-2008
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looks good, but is something wrong with ur keyboard
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Old 07-18-2008
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no i copied it from a site. its what they had too.
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Old 07-18-2008
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How much does the unit cost?
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Old 07-18-2008
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do it! I'd love to be able to do my own alignment! I would say 100 percent do it...theres plenty of topics on alignment around, if you ever ran into a problem you could look it up easily. All you really need is toe in/out and caster/camber...which aren't too bad. (toe in is cake)
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Old 07-18-2008
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its 175 for the unit and 69 for the additional toe brackets.
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Old 07-18-2008
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do it! thats cheap!
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Old 07-18-2008
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its about a 100 for my truck to get aligned. so it would pay for itself fast. i just need some confidence that it will work.
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Old 07-18-2008
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Man Zach I wished you lived near me. You having all these cool tools lol
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Old 07-18-2008
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Man Zach I wished you lived near me. You having all these cool tools lol
lol, i want to buy it but i have about 2600 in school bills coming up to pay for. eh..
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Old 07-18-2008
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lol, i want to buy it but i have about 2600 in school bills coming up to pay for. eh..
Sounds appetizing.
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Old 07-18-2008
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ive used em before the guy workman that has the tow truck has a set for his drag truck they work good
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Old 07-18-2008
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well with a solid front axle your caster and camber are set by the axle itself and the way it's mounted so they are not adjustable anyway... You set the caster with how you have the axle mounted and that is really easy to tell with just a magnetic angle finder for 10 bucks. The camber is also really easy to check with the same magnetic angle finder and it is not adjustable anyway. The only thing thats adjustable on the solid axle is your toe... and that can be set with a couple of plumb bobs and a tape measure off the frame or just the tape measure or a an adjustable length rod to check the distance between front and the distance between back of the tires. I don't see that machine having any advantage over the angle finder and a tape measure. The only way to get more precise with the toe is to slap it on a hunter machine with the laser sights.
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Old 07-18-2008
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Dana 44s have adjustable camber and based on your links you can adjust caster.

I can adjust caster with the turn of a joint. camber is what i am worried about.

you can see my camber is visually off. but your right i am probably just worrying about something that isnt that big of a deal
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Old 07-18-2008
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i say do it. with your knowledge about everything on your truck and the fact that it will pay for itself in 2 adjustments you are way ahead. and just think you will be saving your family money to if they so happen to have you do it you might be able to squeeze a couple bucks outta them and friends to lol
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Old 07-18-2008
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why not just use a tape measure and brain power? thats all i do and it works truck goes down the road straight. . .doesnt pull or anything
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Old 07-18-2008
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if youre worried about the camber, just get it in the air with the 44 on jackstands leveled out, tires off and stick a magnetic angle finder on the brake disk surface vertically and it will tell you what degree it is sitting at.

Also most 44 upper balljoints come with a 0 degree sleeve in them just for setting the tension on the knuckle properly and you have to get a special degreed sleeve in order to actually adjust the camber values, but you also have to be sure that when adjusting the camber with the sleeve that you still torque it down properly to tension the knuckle correctly.

Hell, I set the alignment on my TIB front with a magnetic angle finder and a tape measure and I do over 50K miles a year and dont have any odd wear on my BFGs and my truck goes straight even considering a steering gear box with 367K miles on it...

If you are worried about the cost of repeated alignments, just go somewhere like NTB or another decent chain type place with a multiple year alignment package where you pay for it once and get like 3 or 5 years worth of free alignments whenever you need them. Thats what I do on the '03 just to get it on the hunter machine, then I go in with the tech and help him to set it correctly because the adjustable cam bolts are a ***** to adjust right and lock into place without a second set of hands.

Oh also make sure your wheel bearings were torqued down in the correct 3 step process to seat them and get them set right otherwise some of your camber will be thrown off by loose wheelbearings and not actually the knuckle being at the wrong angle.
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Old 07-19-2008
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hey zach, just drive to canada and ill do it for free. We have 3 lazer machines at the shop haha

I wouldn't waste my money on the toe adapter. You can to that with a tape. But it looks like a cool tool to have. Just make sure your using it on a level surface haha
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Old 07-19-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TireIron View Post
if youre worried about the camber, just get it in the air with the 44 on jackstands leveled out, tires off and stick a magnetic angle finder on the brake disk surface vertically and it will tell you what degree it is sitting at.

Also most 44 upper balljoints come with a 0 degree sleeve in them just for setting the tension on the knuckle properly and you have to get a special degreed sleeve in order to actually adjust the camber values, but you also have to be sure that when adjusting the camber with the sleeve that you still torque it down properly to tension the knuckle correctly.

Hell, I set the alignment on my TIB front with a magnetic angle finder and a tape measure and I do over 50K miles a year and dont have any odd wear on my BFGs and my truck goes straight even considering a steering gear box with 367K miles on it...

If you are worried about the cost of repeated alignments, just go somewhere like NTB or another decent chain type place with a multiple year alignment package where you pay for it once and get like 3 or 5 years worth of free alignments whenever you need them. Thats what I do on the '03 just to get it on the hunter machine, then I go in with the tech and help him to set it correctly because the adjustable cam bolts are a ***** to adjust right and lock into place without a second set of hands.

Oh also make sure your wheel bearings were torqued down in the correct 3 step process to seat them and get them set right otherwise some of your camber will be thrown off by loose wheelbearings and not actually the knuckle being at the wrong angle.
Jason you talked me out of it. All of these ways you have said I have done, it drives fine, just worried about tire wear.


Also what do you mean about proper upper balljoint tq specs? I had an issue with binding then loosened them. Where should the 0 degree sit in the C? Its threaded so I am not sure where it should sit.

Toe is set to 3/16" tow in, I have thought about going a bit more because I am having a little kicking in the steering wheel when i slow down. 1/4" or maybe 5/16" tow in....


Any thoughts?
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  #20  
Old 07-19-2008
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No thoughts on where to actually set the toe right now, I get mine as close to zero as possible but dont really pay too much attention to it heh.

As for setting up the balljoints on the D44 it goes, torque the lower balljoint to 70-90 ft-lbs, then torque the upper balljoint sleeve to 40 ft-lbs, and then torque the upper balljoint nut to 70-90 ft-lbs. (at least those are the values i've managed to find so far, but nothings definite because I didn't get them out of a repair manual) but yea, you torque the lower nut first, then you torque the sleeve, then you torque the upper nut.
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Old 07-20-2008
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id go with 1/8 toe in. anymore and you will most likely get tire wear
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  #22  
Old 07-20-2008
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now i've found somewhere that says 80 for the lower BJ, 6 for the sleeve, and 100 for the upper BJ nut. I have a friend who is rumageing through all-data for me for the torque values so I can let you know what he finds.
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  #23  
Old 07-20-2008
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thanks Jason. and Chris you have to have more than an 1/8 its going to be all over the road otherwise. bigger tires it cant be perfect straight from my understanding.
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Old 07-20-2008
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okay,

Well i do alignments on a lot of highway tractors and dump trucks mostly. Those are some big tires and my toe specs are usually 0.15 or so. so i guess thats closer to 3/16 or 1/4. Sorry Zach, i dont know what i was smoking lol

They cant be perfectly straight cause the idea with giving you toe in is this -- if you point the tires in, with the flex that happens when driving the tires will be pointing straight
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Old 07-20-2008
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Originally Posted by alljackedup View Post
okay,

Well i do alignments on a lot of highway tractors and dump trucks mostly. Those are some big tires and my toe specs are usually 0.15 or so. so i guess thats closer to 3/16 or 1/4. Sorry Zach, i dont know what i was smoking lol

They cant be perfectly straight cause the idea with giving you toe in is this -- if you point the tires in, with the flex that happens when driving the tires will be pointing straight
oh i wasnt saying what you gave was wrong but just like you mentioned .15 doesnt seem like much but with big tires that ends up being alot.. lol
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