i thought they ran like 300-400.

 

No alternate, other than custom shaft.

If I hear it, I'll just grab my tools in my toolbox and unbolt it... Then go have a good shaft made for like $100 from a driveline shop near me :-D

 

stuffforyourranger.com has it for 400, jcwhitney has it for 450

 

The guy at the 4WD shop my buddy Austin got his lift from charges I think $300 for the shaft. But not for me since I went to the other shop in town and had them do my lift, when he was originally gonna do it... But hey what would you guys do?

4" superlift with shaft and body lift installed for $3,000

OR

5.5" RCD with Body Lift and Gap guards and 315's mounted and balanced with install for $3,400?!

 

^
Neither, just save up 4K for a SAS =]]

 

yeah we do trucks is a biiiig ripoff.. they are all convicts there anyways.. when i first got my truck i went there looking for tires.. they quoted me $700 for a set of 31x10.50 bfg a/ts.. evrything they sell is way overpriced and the work they do on trucks is scary.. I'm seriously talking about 6" lift blocks in the rear..

thats why your prices are way off and your information is incorrect

 

I'd go to 4wheelparts in Raleigh, there online store isn't too hot but last time I was at the store the guys seemed to know what they were talking about.

 

id rather just buy it all online and buy the tools needed to install the lift. follow the instructions. its a good learning experience.

 

Me too, I love working on the truck and learning new things. I can't see paying someone else to do something that I could just do myself.

 

I hadn't actually done a IFS lift before my Buddys Red Rocket and it was well worth it... Got to see it how it all panned out and stuff... I really had fun with it and so did he, granted there were times we wanted to tip the truck off the lift, but it was a good learning experience. For the superlift, you don't need anything but air tools and a pickle fork wedge really...

 

Well I contacted my local 4x4 shop and got some prices for a RCD lift and Superlift. He had to wait until later today to get back to me on the Superlift but here is the price for a RCD lift.

What you guys think?

 

If you search you can find the RCD for a little cheaper. Install time, IMHO is about right for a shop. If took me, albeit I was sick, 3 days to do my RCD with pretty much the only help from my friend being him doing the gusset welding. Which brings me to...

I LEARNED a ton about my truck and had fun. This is coming from someone who had no prior interest in working on a vehicle because of how his abusive father forced him [me] to be present when work was being done on family vehicles and would yell, screen, and hit me when HE would screw up. One quickly becomes disinterested in learning at that point. But now I have a vast interest in learning about my truck and it's workings. I just don't have the time, tools, knowledge (courage), or money to afford to dive into that realm of learning. I honestly wish there were more people, like the midwest/CA/northeast boys, out here where I could ask for a weekend off and work on our trucks. As such I really envy guys like Zach Beard, Stone (post ***** ), D, Griggs...etc that are relatively close to one another and can use each other's knowledge in person (vs on-line).

 

And a 2 jaw puller

 

What do you need this for? I guess it depends on what year truck it's going on... On the 98 we put it on we didn't need it... The only other thing we needed were some long skinny ring pliers for his hubs...

We could have used a seal puller for the seals on the old knuckles, but we were careful and just pounded them out.

 

I would love to buy the tools and do it myself but I just don't have the room. Do I do it on the side of the road close to where I live? Also, this is a daily drivers so I can't afford to go more then 1-2 days without my truck. I also have zero tools, maybe a screw driver so installing it on my own would be very hard and very expensive.

I am in Canada so I dunno why if thats why the kit seems more expensive. I know a superlift from another place is $2200 plus tax so like $2600. The RCD is $3000 with taxes plus they say I need a new drive shaft for both

 

They shouldn't be suggesting the shaft if you bought the RCD, I've never heard of people offering that shaft with the RCD, as I wasn't offered because they said I wouldn't need it.

If you want to buy it cheaper, I suggest driving down to the states, or talk to Metro55 from RPS, he lives in Canada and somehow bought his kit at a US price

 

RCD claims you don't need the shaft, so thats what the shop is going off of. But thats a bunch of BS, just wait till your stock one kicks the bucket. When the stock shaft goes it has a bad habit of ruining the output shaft bearing on the transfer case as well. I'd just bite it and get the shaft.

 

Agreed.

 

I'll have a custom one made for half the price of the superlift shaft... I'm not spending the money for theirs, it's a waste if I can get something better for less

 

To get the t-bars out,or you can just drop the LCA and it will slide out.

 

Really? We just used a large c-clamp to unload the torsions and take the plate out... It was more of a b*tch to get it back in though haha

 

Make sure you remove ALL TENSION in the t-bars if you do the drop the LCA method. The t-bars hold a tremendous amount of spring-loaded potential energy and if not removed carefully and properly can result in serious injury. Of course this is probably mentioned in SuperLift's instructions. I know it was boldly mentioned in RCD's instructions.

 

Yah... Trust me, we bent the shaft of the c-clamp putting it back in, we almost couldn't get it off and I know physics well enough to know that energy built up like that can come out quick if an opening is there... And it's going to happen REAL fast... No bueno!

 

the dude at 4wheelparts asked me if i want to run blocks or springs. What is the difference and which do yall prefer.

 

springs... blocks can give you axle wrap