haha thats funny.. im on step 22 of like almost 50 lol. the only thing i have added so far is the 3 blocks for the pass. side of the cab, the bolts to go with them and the steering linkage.. thats it.. And i had help. tomorrow its just me.. hopefully i can get it done in 9 hours lol.

it took me almost 2 days by myself, but then again i broke most of my bed bolts, and 2 of my cab bolts.

Well fly me out and i'll bring the bar with me. haha

haha, well we used a huge pipe with the 1/2" drive handle in it which made it easier, but that still doesnt solve the problem of getting the one part to stop turning with the dam bolt lol.

I'm just really worried bout one of the lines breaking.. the instructions tell me to "bend" the brake lines.. and other lines.. makes me kinda nervouse.

For that bolt not comign out - Get yourself a flat piece of stock iron and drill 2 holes about 2" apart in a straight line - then drill a starter hole in the actual spinning part of that lower cab mount - then take 2 self tapping screws and screw the piece of stock right into it.. it will give you a handle that will push into the frame mounts when you try turning the bolt - Hence, allowing you to crank on it and it wont spin. I had to do it that way myself since I was the only one doing that part of the lift myself as well.. worked wonders!!

hmmm.. i may just have to try this.. So drill directly into the cab mount? metal and rubber?

have you wedged in a needle nose vice grips on it? I did that to mine when it kept spinning. I let it spin around and hit the cab mount bracket mount thing, then held it there with my hand as my other hand was gripping the impact. You are using heat, correct? And an impact?


I couldn't believe how huge mine was when we lowered her on her feet after the superlift install.




Mike is talking about drilling 2 holes on the part thats spinning, drilled on opposite sides...if you happen to hit the rubber, oh well...it'll be okay. Then put a piece of flat bar in that matches those two holes, then screw that flat bar to the spinning part of the mount.


Like this:

http://i40.tinypic.com/bhn811.jpg

some one did not heat the bolts properly :spank::spank:

GOTCHA.. thanks shane,

and we had a torch, but did not use heat.. Where would i put the heat? I guess i coudl just put it on the bottom of the bolt and the top..

oooohhh.. what did you guys use for torque specs when you titend down the new bolts?

and did you guys use a welder for anything? cause i dont have access to one..

did you happen to read this.....https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ravaganza.html

before starting? i believe its the first thing he covers with pictures :bigok:

Heat the end of the bolt(facing the ground) until it's cherry red, or until the rubber starts smoking, then hit it with the impact.


Question, if one bolt is stuck(and presumably still tight as hell), why is one side of the truck in the air??? You may have possibly bent that bolt, which will make it a huge pain in the arse to remove... You should make sure all bolts are loose, then pull all from one side, jack it up, set blocks, set the new bolts, pull other sides bolts, jack up, place blocks, thread bolts, bam!

hhaha thansk blane lol..

no welding required unless you'd like to weld in the crushers in under the bed, most dont do it and some dont even put them in, but the weight of the bed and tightness of the bolts hold them into place quite nicely

shane- we followed the instructions.. it says to loosed the drivers side, then remove the pass. side bolts, then add the blocks, bolts, nuts, then do the other side.. We did loosen it up before we did the pass. side. then the damn rubber started turning with the bolt..

haha i was once a noob at bodylift but once i did it myself its fun to look down on the newer noobs always glad to help

map, or propane torch the sh!t out of those bolts and it will slide right out of there... i'm guessing you haven't started on the front bolts by the bumper have you?

just making sure. thats all.

blake- thanks bro.. and yea, we have all the bolts out except for that one lol.. the pass side has all 3 new blocks and harware.. speaking of the bumper, do i ahve to completly take the bumper off to lift it? i cant get it off without taking the hooks off and i cant get them off lol..

shane- your help is ALWAYS wanted and appreciated.. thanks

well im off to start.. wish me luck lol.

remove the tow hooks, right side of the nuts are welded on get a wrech on the left side, and also removing the bumper is easy i think its only 4 bolts they should be 3/4's

yes...bumper removal is required to put the new brackets in. BEFORE bolting the brackets to the truck, scuff the brackets up with sandpaper and paint them!! SOOOOO tired of seeing unpainted BL brackets on this site lately!! lol.

really? the new bumper brakets that came with the kit were painted black already...

yeah, the bumpers bolts are all taken out, so all i have to do is remove hooks.. which is the pain.. i cant get to one of them cause the dam radiator hose is in the way..

pull the bumper off then carefully move the hose out of the way, it might be a little tight but slide the socket on the bolt and get an extension that should help make some clearence