Leaf question - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


Suspension Tech General discussion of suspension for the Ford Ranger.

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  #1  
Old 11-29-2006
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Leaf question

What leafs do I need to keep the same rear height, but at the same time remove the stock blocks? Or can I use Add-a-leafs to achieve the same thing?
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Old 11-29-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedPowerRanger
What leafs do I need to keep the same height, but to remove the stock blocks? Or can I use Add-a-leafs to achieve the same thing?

What are trying to do???
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  #3  
Old 11-29-2006
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I just want to remove the rear blocks, but keep the same height.
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Old 11-29-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedPowerRanger
I just want to remove the rear blocks, but keep the same height.
is it the stock blocks? and if so why would you want to remove them?
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Old 11-29-2006
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I would use Chevy springs.
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Old 11-29-2006
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ya. chevy springs will keep the same height and remove the block. it did on mine.
you have to move the front spring mount forward tho, its a project, but well worth it imo.
such a better ride.
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Old 11-29-2006
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Which model Chevy, and what about new U-bolts?
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Old 11-29-2006
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88~98 C1500 (2wd 4-leaf) or K1500 (4wd 5-leaf). I have the C1500 springs and mine rides stiffer than the factory Ranger springs did. I don't think I would like it with the 5-leaf K1500 springs.

You can get shorter universal U-bolts or get some from a 2WD Ranger XL/XLT. If you remove the blocks, you should also get shorter shocks like those on the 2WD Ranger models without blocks.
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Old 11-29-2006
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what is involved in moving the front spring mount? Why would I need shorter shocks if it retains the same height?
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Old 11-29-2006
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You have to drill out the 4 frame rivets on each side and relocate the spring hangers 6" forward. By coincidence, this happens to be about the same distance as between the holes so you can reuse 2 of them. Then drill 2 more holes in the frame and remount the hangers using Grade 8 SAE or Class 10.9 metric bolts.

I guess that the above could be done with the box in place but it is way easier with it removed. This is especially true on the DS where the fuel tank is in the way.

The parking brake cable stay mounts to the DS hanger and will not work after the relocation. You would have to fab something to make it work again.

You need the shorter shocks because you would be moving the bump stop by removing the block. The ride height doesn't matter.
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Old 11-29-2006
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its really quite a task, expect to spend at least a full day doing it. I have done mine and 2 other RF members trucks, We did manage to do 2 trucks in one day but that was with 3 guys working on it constant, not to mention a lot of cussing at each other

some tools that really come in handy..

drill
oxy/acte torch
jack (we used a skidsteer)
jack stands
BFH
1/2 drill bits
1.5 strap for custom ebrake mount
air tools
air chisel


plus a nice selection of sockets and wrenches

here is a pic of comapring springs
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  #12  
Old 11-30-2006
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thanks for the info
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Old 12-03-2006
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An easier solution would be to use longer shackles (chevy 1500 lowering shackles), which should give you about 1.5" of lift, and a long add-a-leaf, then ditch the blocks.
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  #14  
Old 12-13-2006
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you could get 4inch lifted leafs from skyjacker and ditch the blocks, and get about 1.5" of lift, and then you dont have to go thru the trouble of gettin chevy shackles or leafs and havin to mod them up, not that its not a bad idea but its prolly easier and cheaper to do the skyjacker route, thats jus my opinion.
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