What is everyone using for rear shocks? If I remove the leaf block from the top of the spring, there will only be about 3" of down travel on the shock before it bottoms out. Once loaded it'll have only about an 1" of travel left.

 

Are you trying to lower your truck or just replace shocks?

 

Truck is already lowered, I'm trying to decide whether or not to build custom bump stops or remove them entirely and have the axle housing be the stop. If I take the latter road, then I'll need different shocks. I price 2wd shocks this morning, I've also read about Nissan rear shocks.

 

You just ruined the purpose of a 4x4 then

 

Matter of opinion. I came here looking for information regarding modifications done to my truck, not to get flamed for my choice of modification.

 

Why lower a 4x4 though? The purpose of a 4 wheel drive is to ge xtra traction. If you lower it, then you made a 4 wheel drive plow. Thats just my opinion though.
Hope you find your answer

 

This truck is mostly used on the highway, rarely does it see a gravel road, the clearance it had was a lot more than I'd ever need. I wanted better fuel economy and better handling, so it seemed practical to bring the truck closer to the ground. Not to mention, it would make my quad easier to load.

The winters get bad enough around here to require a 4wd, also need it for some places I ride.

The truck isn't slammed, it looks like a tall 2wd. The front is now about 1/2" lower than it was in this pic.

 

Wirelessly posted (Droid2)

How did you lower your rear end? I just used a shorter block on mine ...lowered it about an inch and a half. Leveled it out and made it ride a lot better. I know several other people around me that have done the same. I also did the same on a 2wd I had years ago.

 

The block is currently on top of the spring, I did it that way just to test it out--that way if I didn't like it, it could be reversed easily.

I'm going to leave it at this height, so it's time to remove the blocks entirely and get everything proper.

 

All you need is new U-bolts they aren't very expensive. Also you should already have bump stops on the truck. You shouldn't need to change the shocks.

 

The truck does have bumpstops, however, the shocks will bottom out before the bumpstops touch the axle housing.

 

Gotcha then I guess some longer bump stops would be an option.

 

You could just make a bumpstop extension like the Superlift kits come with... they're just sort of a metal box that you put between the factory stop and the frame.

 

Wirelessly posted (Droid2)

The shorter blocks I used on my truck didn't have bump stops, and I used the original u bolts, just ran the nuts down a little further. I pull a small trailer around some in the winter hauling wood and have never had an issue with no bumpstops.

 

Ok that seems a lot more practical. When I think lowered I think dragging the frame. I like the stance actually. Can you tell a difference in mpg and handling?

 

Took a trip last weekend, gained 1.5mpg on E-85. I haven't tested gasoline yet, I expect it to be over a 2mpg gain based on the results on corn. My ultimate goal is 25mpg hwy, if the 2mpg estimate proves to be correct, than I've achieved my goal.

Truck turns in much quicker, handles much flatter and it takes noticeably less throttle to maintain freeway speeds.

 

Clean truck and a lowered 4x4, nice idea actually.

As far as the shocks go… sounds like you need a shorter bodied shock or a relocation of the existing mounts. (IMHO…)
I would just replace the shocks.

Once you determine the longest & shortest measurement of your suspension and maybe the static measurements contact a shock manufacturer and talk to there tech people.
Off-Road Warehouse has some decent shock people there, maybe they can help.

luck and interesting idea this lowered 4x4.

 

I found a bunch of shock specifications and it looks like the 2wd shock is going to be my best bet. The only other shock that would work better dimensionally is a F-350 Superduty rear shock, however I think the truck would ride like crap with those shocks due to valving.

FWIW---The rear of the truck is 33" to the wheel well, front is 32".

 

Don’t go with a stock F350… I am thinking size and ride… NOT !

Call a manufacturer of the shocks and see what they say before putting money down.

luck

 

The 350 shock would definitly ride 10x rougher. Id go custom shocks if theyre not too pricy.
And I do like the stance. I shoulda asked before expressing my opinion

 

Just swap in stock 2WD Ranger shocks.

When I did my 2 inch rear lift I just picked up a set of stock 4x4 shocks and they are perfect.

Same concept, just reversed.

You are making a WAY bigger deal out of this than it needs to be lol.

 

Hate to be the debbie downer here, but that truck wont see 25mpg hwy. You might see 22 and maybe 23. Best I ever got out of my edge 3.0 2wd was almost 22mpg.

 

22-23mpg highway is what the truck has been averaging to this point, 19-20mpg hwy on E-85. 25 is a very attainable number.

 

Personally, I've just been running some Edelbrock Performer shocks for over 2 years now after removing the rear blocks from my 2007. They said they were made for my 4wd Sport, but they did seem a bit shorter when I put them on. Like you said, it's not going to be running off-road, so what's the odds you actually need 3 inches of travel (at any speed).

Also, glad to see people still rag on people trying lower a 4wd.

 

The way I see it is its up to the person who owns it. Me personally I wouldn't lower a tbar truck 2wd or 4wd. However I would love a second gen sport trac 4wd/awd to lower.