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Moog control arm, loose torsion bar fit?

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Old 08-24-2015
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Moog control arm, loose torsion bar fit?

Just put new lower control arms on my 98 and the torsion bar fit in the arm is a little loose. I measured the hole and it is slightly bigger than the old OEM arm.

It still holds the bar but a little surprising it isnt an exact fit. I'm just gonna shim it with some thin sheeting. It's almost like they expect you to have some sort of sleeve around the hex of the bar.

 
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Old 08-25-2015
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Raybestos Pro Grade LCA's shown. Don't know if Raybestos ever resolved this. First time I've heard of fitment issues for Moog CK series "Problem Solver" LCA's.

Ford Explorer and Ranger Forums "Serious Explorations"® - View Single Post - IFS Heavy Duty Upgrades!

Ford Explorer and Ranger Forums "Serious Explorations"® - View Single Post - IFS Heavy Duty Upgrades!
 

Last edited by swshawaii; 08-25-2015 at 01:18 AM.
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Old 08-25-2015
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Originally Posted by swshawaii
Raybestos Pro Grade LCA's shown. Don't know if Raybestos ever resolved this. First time I've heard of fitment issues for Moog CK series "Problem Solver" LCA's.

Ford Explorer and Ranger Forums "Serious Explorations"® - View Single Post - IFS Heavy Duty Upgrades!

Ford Explorer and Ranger Forums "Serious Explorations"® - View Single Post - IFS Heavy Duty Upgrades!
Yea, I bought the nice stuff expecting to avoid problems like this. I'm gonna have to contact moog and have them measure other LCAs and see what's going on.

Just for the record these are the problem solver ones and not the lower end ones which are usually the same Chinese copy lower end places sell.
I wonder if it's the same arm with just the ball joints being upgraded. Wouldn't surprise me if its the same lca as raybestos.

I am posting over in the linked thread on explorer forums if anyone wants to follow it there.
 

Last edited by TAMUmpower; 08-25-2015 at 08:19 AM.
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Old 10-27-2015
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Did you ever get this resolved? I have the same problem. 2003 ranger 4x4 4.0 FX4 Level II. New lower control arms and new Ford #1 torsion bars. Torsion bar is so "sloppy" in lower arm that I have to crank key adjustment bolt all the way up just to get off the bump stop. Something isn't right.........
 
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Old 10-28-2015
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Originally Posted by brad298
Did you ever get this resolved? I have the same problem. 2003 ranger 4x4 4.0 FX4 Level II. New lower control arms and new Ford #1 torsion bars. Torsion bar is so "sloppy" in lower arm that I have to crank key adjustment bolt all the way up just to get off the bump stop. Something isn't right.........
No, I just kept them. Mine arent as bad as yours because the ride height is more or less normal but the keys are basically cranked all the way. That being said I bought used torsion bars so they could have some sag in them. Yours must be really sloppy to barely be off the stops.
 
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Old 06-06-2020
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So just bumping this thread because I’m having the same issue... loose hex on the LCA and sitting in the bump stops. Any input would be appreciated, I’ve tried shimming with sheet metal but having to beat the torsion bars out to reposition them isn’t healthy(yep, no indexing marks oh well).
 
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Old 06-06-2020
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^ I Haven't replaced LCA's, but this torsion bar "clocking" post may be helpful. Good luck.


https://www.explorerforum.com/forums...3/post-1939771
 
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Old 06-06-2020
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Thanks, I’ve read a lot of your posts on both forums over the years. What that post is saying is the L/R should be at 12 o’clock with the control arms level right? So with the bars in the arms hanging at 45 degrees, pop the key onto the end of the torsion bar and secure it then jack up the control arm until the upper arm can be secured to the spindle? I’m gonna shin up the torsion bar one more time like that and give it a try if it doesn’t work then I’m removing the Old bushings from the factory LCA and pressing new ones and a ball joint in and trying that. For the hell of it I’m getting some 07 keys in the mail on Monday to try the prekey mod.
 
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Old 07-05-2020
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I am having this problem with new Moog LCA's. Has anyone resolved this issue? My current thinking is to leave it and hope rust does its thing to 'seat' the hex part of the TB.
Thanks!
 
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