Moog upper ball joints and Torsion bars..... - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


Suspension Tech General discussion of suspension for the Ford Ranger.

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  #1  
Old 04-03-2008
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Moog upper ball joints and Torsion bars.....

Hey.

It's time for joints for an UPcoming mod. I know for sure I need lowersRockauto.com list two different MOOG arms w/ joint for my 4x4. K8708T & K8710T. They also list ones a two piece design, and the other is a 1 piece. What's the difference?? I know I probably should just look under my truck and find out....

Here's a highlighted screen shot for yall...


Also wanting to upgrade my "B" bars to "#1" bars.....where would I buy new bars?? And how much do they run??

Thanks for any help.

Shane
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Old 04-03-2008
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I am soooooo stupid. I'm a total newbie!!!

One is left side....the other is right side!!!

Last edited by Fx4wannabe01; 04-03-2008 at 05:31 AM.
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Old 04-03-2008
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You should be able to order #1 bars from a Ford dealer for about $65 each. They are cheaper online but I have to believe that shipping would eat up the difference. Be sure to take the part numbers with you because, at the dealer, replacement bars are looked up by VIN based on the original build.

#1 part numbers:
F67Z-5B326-FA Pass side
F67Z-5B326-FB Driver side

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Ford changed the passenger side UCA from 2-piece to 1-piece sometime in 2003. The 2-piece design is out of production as a replacement part, both Ford OEM and MOOG, although there still are some out there in the parts pipeline.

For your 2001, you can either:
  • replace the balljoint carrier (K8710T) of the original PS arm OR
  • change over to the later one piece arm (K80068) that is a mirror image of your driver side arm.
There is only one MOOG DS replacement arm (K8708T) for 98+ torsion bar Ranger apps.



Quote:
Originally Posted by rwenzing
These numbers are for with Rangers with torsion bar suspension (98+ 4x4, 2000 Trailhead, 2001+ Edge).


DS one-piece UCA 98~2006:
(MOOG K8708T):

UCA w/replaceable/greasable ball joint


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

PS one-piece UCA 2003 1/2~2006:
(MOOG K80068)

UCA w/replaceable/greasable ball joint
Similar appearance to K8708T above but with slightly different ball joint offset.


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

PS 2-piece style ball joint carrier only 98~2003 1/2
(MOOG K8710T) :

Carrier w/replaceable/greasable ball joint
Note: this part is discontinued and may not be available. The entire 2-piece PS UCA assembly can be replaced by the 1-piece K80068.


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Lower ball joint only 98+
Greasable, fits DS and PS
(MOOG K8695T)


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Outer tie rod ends
Greasable, fits DS and PS
(MOOG ES3461)
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  #4  
Old 04-03-2008
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buy the one piece for both sides! Makes live simpler. :)

Bob is on this one
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  #5  
Old 04-03-2008
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I have no idea what your upcoming mod is..:) but what all do ya'll think is best to replace while putting on a superlift...I was just thinking ball joints upper and lower but is there more i should replace?
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Old 04-03-2008
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upper and lower are good to replace. you will need an alignment ASAP

also maybe TREs but if they are tight why bother.
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Old 04-03-2008
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silly question and not thinking at the moment (brain's on work)...

what's easiest way to check TREs? I know you can do the UCA and LCA by jacking up the truck and then checking of play.
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Old 04-03-2008
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its in a similar matter you just need to watch the TRE and look for play. that is how i checked
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Old 04-03-2008
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I only ask as I've got a knock/clunk that sounds like it's coming from my front suspension. It's usually heard when I turn left or when coming to a stop. Otherwise I never hear the sound. I've been thinking it's something within my front suspension. So far I've only gone as far as disconnecting the front drive shaft and the clunk was still present. I've check motor mounts too and they (I only saw 2?) seem fine. At times it feels like it's coming from the spindle or caliper. Sometimes it's a modest clunk, other times subtle, and yet sometimes it doesn't even occur. Right now first thought is upper and lower balljoints. And I don't think it's the rear DS or slip yoke. Kind of baffled honestly

Oh and.... (though post does apply somewhat)

Anyhow, back to reading AZA stuff for work.
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Old 04-03-2008
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eh i doubt its TREs you will know when they get bad... wont track straight, will pull, etc...

drives like crap. etc. haha

Sounds like balljoints or something loose.
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  #11  
Old 04-03-2008
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What's the difference in #1 torsions vs stock?
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Old 04-03-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zabeard View Post
eh i doubt its TREs you will know when they get bad... wont track straight, will pull, etc...

drives like crap. etc. haha

Sounds like balljoints or something loose.
Alignment seems fine, assuming it is a balljoint. I'm trying to remember what all was replaced back in July 07. I know 1 TRE and at least 1 LBJ was replaced. Once I'm off the clock I plan on making a phone call to see if a beefier UCA will work.
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  #13  
Old 04-03-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Prerunner-Ranger View Post
What's the difference in #1 torsions vs stock?
They are the highest rated t-bar, and if I recall will yield a greater amount of "lift" when cranked. Of course at the cost of potential ride quality (stiffness).

Even with my 700 lbs hypercoils on the RCD co units (vs the RCD coils that are 600 lbs) I think/feel my ride is better than that of the t-bar setup. I don't seem to hop and bounce all over the place when off-road or on bumpy/rough street terrain.
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Old 04-03-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lefty04LevelII View Post
They are the highest rated t-bar, and if I recall will yield a greater amount of "lift" when cranked. Of course at the cost of potential ride quality (stiffness).

Even with my 700 lbs hypercoils on the RCD co units (vs the RCD coils that are 600 lbs) I think/feel my ride is better than that of the t-bar setup. I don't seem to hop and bounce all over the place when off-road or on bumpy/rough street terrain.
I was told the RCD uses 550lb coils... Is that wrong? That's why I'm getting the 750lb coils! Hell, I bought a truck, not for it's ride quality, but for it's capabilities. lol
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Old 04-03-2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrePaul86 View Post
I was told the RCD uses 550lb coils... Is that wrong? That's why I'm getting the 750lb coils! Hell, I bought a truck, not for it's ride quality, but for it's capabilities. lol
https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...&highlight=600

Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGDREAMER02 View Post
Anyways, I have been looking for some new shocks on the front end since mine are sagging a bit, and after 29k, a bit stiff. I have been playing phone tag with RCD a bit but finally got the specs on the front shocks.

They are bilstein 5100's that are obviously a special coilover style:
Extd: 19.125"
Col: 14.625"
Dia: 2.0"
Spring Rate: 600 lbs
Inside Dia: 2.5"
Spring Length: 12"
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Old 04-03-2008
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I went to HS with him haha... He's the reason I lifted my truck... You should see it now... 35's and 18's... I'm gonna go ahead and get the 14in coils.. That's what he's runnin and that thing looks so big! It was so big compared to my lifted 2wd when I had it haha
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  #17  
Old 04-03-2008
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are you sure he put 14 inch coils in? I thought he did 12's.

If you're dead set on 14 inch coils you might check on, I believe, explorer forum.com. If you search here I THINK there's a link to the explorerforum.com page where a guy put in 14 inch coils on his RCD lifted explorer. If the link isn't on here it might be on offroadrangers.com.
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Old 04-03-2008
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I've been following a thread about springs and coilovers on Tracs and Gen 2 Explorers on E-F. It is quite a lengthy read but there's a bunch of good info that should translate well to 4x4 SLA Rangers.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...d.php?t=186393
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Old 04-03-2008
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thanks everyone!! espicially you bob.....i couldn't seen to find a sticky regarding joints.
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Old 06-01-2009
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got a question i ordered my ball joints and got part number K8708T and K8710T. i didn't even see the part number for the one piece. am i going to have any problems are should i get the one piece? id rather not have to send it back i just want to make sure its going to work.
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Old 06-02-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mossyoak03 View Post
got a question i ordered my ball joints and got part number K8708T and K8710T. i didn't even see the part number for the one piece. am i going to have any problems are should i get the one piece? id rather not have to send it back i just want to make sure its going to work.
The K8710T is incomplete and can only be used if you have the other part of a 2-piece arm for the passenger side.

If you have a one piece on the PS now, you'll need another one piece arm like the K80068 to replace it ... or use the new K8710T with the second piece from a junkyard.

IIRC, Ford changed production from the PS 2-piece to 1-piece sometime in 03 . My late 03 was 1-pc from the factory.
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Old 06-02-2009
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well crap! guess im ordering that one now
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  #23  
Old 06-09-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwenzing View Post
The K8710T is incomplete and can only be used if you have the other part of a 2-piece arm for the passenger side.

If you have a one piece on the PS now, you'll need another one piece arm like the K80068 to replace it ... or use the new K8710T with the second piece from a junkyard.

IIRC, Ford changed production from the PS 2-piece to 1-piece sometime in 03 . My late 03 was 1-pc from the factory.
I'm working through the fun of finding out which ball joints/control arms I need. My passenger side is the 2-piece setup...was there a benefit to making only the passenger side a 2-piece and the driver's side 1-piece??
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  #24  
Old 06-10-2009
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i don't know anything about your truck but i got both 1 piece upper control arms the part numbers are listed above
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  #25  
Old 06-10-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ccernst View Post
I'm working through the fun of finding out which ball joints/control arms I need. My passenger side is the 2-piece setup...was there a benefit to making only the passenger side a 2-piece and the driver's side 1-piece??
The 2-piece arm allowed for an independent left-to-right adjustment called 'caster split' on the torsion bar Rangers. Apparently, this adjustment was found to be unnecessary in the field, so it was eliminated in 2003 1/2 or thereabouts. All torsion bar Rangers can use the 1-piece UCA's on both sides.
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