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Suspension Tech General discussion of suspension for the Ford Ranger.

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  #26  
Old 01-19-2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n3elz
So how do you explain that? If they have no flex to begin with, I lose nothing. And if they bottom out too easily, the B bar should improve that. From what you just said it would seem to be a benefit.

It is for sure possible because people are doing it.
That was all pretty much a joke. It doesn't flex because the springs are too stiff. It bottoms out because there is hardly any travel. I'm not sure what your goal is, but if you want off road performance I don't think this is the right direction. If you want a cheap drop in replacement then it is.

I know it is possible to change the spring, what I meant was if it is possible for the Ranger to flex even less than it does now.
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  #27  
Old 01-19-2005
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lol! It's hard to believe it could flex less, but it's true.

The main thing, Dave, is to be able to hit obstacles as "hard" as I need to in 2WD and not overly fatigue the t-bars. I think most of the damage to the stock ones occured BEFORE I put the Ranchos on. I was offroading with basically "blown" factory shocks which would have caused the front end to cycle too much on changes. Were I a 4x4, I would not need quite the momentum I often do.

My thought is, regardless of the "flex" issue, is that the stiffer bars would be more likely to stand up to the abuse for a longer time.
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  #28  
Old 01-19-2005
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john heres how I pulled my torsion bars. now this will be WAY easier with air tools and is really really simple.


first get the truck in the air fron tires off, disconnect the shock, the lower ball joint and the sway bar linkage letting the lower arm drop all the way. the UNCRANK the torsion bars releiving as much tension as possible. the pull off the torsion bar skidplate thingies. once you get the skidplates off its really easy to see what you have to do. there is a guide plate for the torsion key between the frame and key so look at it and remeber the way it comes out.

now I pulled my lower arm off cause I needed the get new ball joints in but i doubt that you have to do that. make sure and MARK A SPOT on the both the torsion bar hex heads (both front and rear heads) and their corrosponding spots in the torsion bar key and the spot in the lower control arm. if youre gonna rotate em a sixth of a turn just mark em one corner off.


then reverse instructions for puttin em back on. TWAS WAY EASY!!!

directions may not be TOTALLY complete as i just did this off the top of my head but im pretty sure once you get down there you'll figure it out.

oh and also use a floor jack to reload the lower arms to the needed height to reach the sway bar linkage and fron shock.

one more thing i forgot: i had my spindle all the way off so pay attention to the lower ball joint when reloading the bars so that you can reinsert it in the spindle.

HAHA ALSO might be easier with the spidle off. more working room. and one less thing to worry about when reloading as it is probably way easier to put on bottom ball joint the the top ball joint.

any questions LOL??
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  #29  
Old 01-20-2005
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Ah, that's an interesting alternative which doesn't require loading the bar with the puller or special tool. Thanks for the info!
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  #30  
Old 01-20-2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n3elz
lol! It's hard to believe it could flex less, but it's true.

The main thing, Dave, is to be able to hit obstacles as "hard" as I need to in 2WD and not overly fatigue the t-bars. I think most of the damage to the stock ones occured BEFORE I put the Ranchos on. I was offroading with basically "blown" factory shocks which would have caused the front end to cycle too much on changes. Were I a 4x4, I would not need quite the momentum I often do.

My thought is, regardless of the "flex" issue, is that the stiffer bars would be more likely to stand up to the abuse for a longer time.
That is probably true. I forgot you were 2wd.
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  #31  
Old 01-20-2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n3elz
Ah, that's an interesting alternative which doesn't require loading the bar with the puller or special tool. Thanks for the info!

and its REALLY easy, just a little time consuming. i did it by myself too.
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