WTF I am at a loss. Ball joints and control arm bushings were shot, so I ordered new complete assemblies from Rock Auto (Moog Serviceable). Tie Rods are fine. Had my buddy put them on at his shop, FEA ect.........drove home and the bitch will run off the highway if you take your hand off the wheel.

I don't get it at all...............I did notice the passenger side ride height is about .75 lower than the drivers...........which I may throw something off but if the FEA was in spec.............

at a loss here............anyone run across this before.

 

FUUUUUK nobody?

 

your buddy screwed up somewhere.. cant really diagnose that without looking at it

 

I saw a video on youtube where a guy was doing a T-Bar Crank and did before measurements and his passenger side was .5" or so lower than the drivers............is this common?

 

yes if they are both maxed out. The drivers side is cranked more than the passenger side from the factory. being .75" off will not make the truck veer off the road though.

 

is one of your brakes getting really hot? maybe he put in new pads that were way out of spec amd one side is grabbing. I would jack it up off the ground and see how free the tires spin.

 

if it didn't get an alignment, don't expect it to drive straight.

 

But is that normal? I would expect equal ride height.............I though maybe being off would have screwed with the alignment ins some way.

It did get an FEA on a state of the art machine but I didn't get the specs

I did all the normal checks, wheel bearing, caliper ect. I am going to have time tires rotated and balanced today just to see if that would make any difference.

 

rangers are heavier on the left. im assuming the fea just wasnt done properly

 

I got a copy of the alignment specs that was done and everything is in range..........weird...........

 

either you have a sticking brake caliper , OR that sides wheel bearing is very close to seizing up

look through the rims slots to see if the brake pads are against the rotor , if they are , jack up that side of the vehicle and spin the wheel , is there a lot resistance , or very hard to turn , YES !! semi seized brake caliper

if wheel is easy to rotate , check to see if there are any gaps between the brake pads and the rotor

if there are , then your wheel bearing requires replacement

 

the brake pads will be touching the rotor either way.

 

true.

that is why you must rotate the wheel to determine if the caliper is seized

there should be slight play between the pads and rotors

 

sounds like he just needs to take it to a shop to me. No offence to him but if he cant figure it out himself he shouldnt be doing the work. OP at least have someone knowledgeable go through it with you in person

 

I am taking it back next week but was just trying to do some research first.............don't know much about TB suspension. I cannot even find factory specifications.........there is 9 million threads about cranking Tbars for lift but nothing on replacing and adjusting them..............

no issue with the brakes. I just did a complete brake job...

 

^99offroadrngr
Your upper control arms have camber adjustment plates, two on each side. Some are a fixed plate and some are an adjustment bolt. These mess with more than just camber. Check to see if they are there. Mine are adjustable ones that I put in with my coilover conversion when I did my ball joints.

 

I would get another alignment check done.

 

alignment cams on the uca do only adjust camber

 

I don't have problems with my truck. My truck drives perfectly straight and I've had camber kits since the first day my truck was lifted lol

 

This isn't a TB suspension issue, so you're lack of knowledge isn't the problem. Something is not lined up right. Having one side a little lower would not cause pulling that bad.

As for just doing a complete brake job, that doesn't immediately rule out a problem there. Testing it is the only way to be sure.

I would personally get a second check on the alignment. Since you replaced your CAs, and this was the beginning of the problem, alignment is the obvious place for the cause.

I would try to balance out the ride height of the two sides before hand, just so that they get the optimum setup, but that's not causing the pull.

 

Regarding the brakes, inspected, cleaned and repacked the bearings, turned the rotors (no sign of heat/warp) pistons in the calipers contracted without issue, bedded the pads, no hang-up on rotation.

The alignment specs were as follows. L R Total if applicable and appear to be in spec.

Front
Caster 3.25 3.63
Camber -.25 -.12
Toe -.02 .01 -.01

Rear
Camber -.34 -.45
Toe .17 -.11 .06
Thrust angle -.14

SAI 13.42 12.68
included angel 13.17 12.56

Setback .19 .17
Track Width Diff .94

Taking it back this week and putting it back on the rack.

On the positive side, damn what a difference in the ride ect. The ball joints could easily be spun by hand, in out play, bushings on last leg before.