I'm looking to redo my track bar with one straight piece of 1.5" DOM prolly .25 wall.

Anyway I'm not really thinking I want to run that Heim joint i have up there now. Would it be weaker or would there be any down sides to using a Johnny Joint / Superflex Joint to mount the track bar up on the frame?

here is what I'm thinking about running.

http://www.rubiconexpress.com/Produc...=DB72741238081

 

its a bad idea! DONT DO IT! lol jk

 

i really don't see why you couldn't use them, Rubicon Express uses them on their extreme track bars. Plus you can rebuild them unlike a heim joint.

 

that is what i was reading chad.

but the joint only takes a 10MM bolt unlike this massive bolt i have now. So I'm kinda worried about using the small bolt but at the same time its not like the one down on the axle is much bigger.

 

if i remember right isn't the upper tj mount for the track bar around 10mm also.

 

i'm not really sure but if they use this same joint as a track bar in other places I dont know why it wouldnt work for me.

 

you can get johnny joints in all kinds of sizes if you want.

http://www.currieenterprises.com/ces...nnyjoints.aspx

 

I think the main problem with them is not related to strength, it's related to durability over time. Since they are open, you have the problem of deterioration due to dirt and moisture.

But they're easy to replace and proper maintenance probably minimizes problems.

The main reasons for bushings and TRE's is durability -- but generally speaking it's at the expense of range of motion.

 

a johnny joint would be better than the heim it will be replacing in this respect.

 

True that. But any open joint still has the issue in some form. That was my only point.

TRE's are either completely sealed, or fully sealed on one end with grease fittings allowing a continual removal of contaminants generally. But TRE's are applicable to a track bar only with modification of the mountings to take cone-shaped studs.

I think that's why bushings show up so much -- a track bar generally has the least degrees of freedom required of any of the "control" arms in a 3 link like that. Except for limited front-to-back movement due to the arc of the radius arms, they are pretty much only one degree of freedom at each end. They just may not require such exotic pivots to function really, really well, especially with long radius arms that minimize the arc of the suspension travel for the same length of travel.

 

I mean the only reason i was going for this over the heim is its rebuildable and greaseable. It also looks to be stronger as well. I think I'm going to give it a try.

 

Hey, what the heck -- ends are easy to swap, right?

 

lol they are not bad. but currently my track bar limits alot and makes bump steer horrible...

poor planning on my part. so got to start over there.

 

That's really my biggest concern: a decent steering geometry that I can live with as I continue to use this as daily driver.

Good luck with it.

 

well you are on the right track of not wanting to use the yota box... I'm not sure i like it too well, but after spending ALOT of money on it I'm just going to stick with it.

steering geometry is something that i have to think about alot just to figure out 'well if i change this what happens sort of thing' lol

 

Those are the same super pivots Im using on my 4 link for my air ride. They are pretty heavy duty joints and they do have a zerk fitting for easy lubing. Your application is completely different, but I have never had a problem with these joints.

 

Yeah i have 4 joints just like this on for my front suspension. I like them. I will prolly run the same ones in the rear but use the LARGE sized ones not the small. that is a ways down the road though.

I just ordered one and a piece of threaded rod, maybe next weekend I can get started on it. I hope...

 

They sell them with the threaded rod already welded on. These are the ones I have:

http://suicidedoors.com/SuperPivot4-...th1-18Stud.php

 

yeah but then i need the bung, either way works.. see these are you put the threaded rod in the end... they are just designed a little different.

 

Anyone think running a 1.25" OD DOM with .25 wall will be strong enough for my application? I think it would. That is somewhere close to what it is now.

 

I have the same ones, SD made all my links, for my 3 link