Ha ha! Well, it's not like you're married to it. A steering box can always be replaced.

I haven't looked into the whole hydraulics issue and why one box might work and another not (pressure and volume requirements). I know the pump in the Ranger pretty much sucks, so I'm wondering also if you guys have any thoughts on that.

I've seem mods on the valving to increase the flow, not sure how effective it is -- or if those mods even work on our pumps.

 

The IFS Yota box, can withstand the abuse. Toyota Guys have been replacing the stock steering boxes on their Solid Axle Toyota's (85 and older) For years now, with the IFS boxes. Another plus of the IFS box is that they are "easily" Tapped for Hydro Assist.

This is the Toyota Box we are talking about. There are two styles of this box. This style was made from 86-89. The other was from 90 on.

 

Thanks. Of the two styles, is the older one preferable for any reason? I think I've seen guys cite they are using alike a '92 box as well.

Maybe I'll start another thread for this (or should) -- but what about coupling our steering shafts in? How hard is that?

 

ive heard to stay away from yota..and go with a GM box..parts are easier to find and cheaper..

yay or nay?

 

I find some toyota sites say to use the older style box. I Dont know why this is mentioned though.

Here is the Bleed instructions for the IFS yota boxes, This is off Trail-Gears website.

Bleeding Instructions

 

Ive never heard this, but arent most GM boxes an Inside the Rail box? I know space is very limited on the inside of the Rail. Ive seen people use alot of different boxes though. All of them have been outside the rail style. Ive seen Scout 2, IFS toyota, Fj60 and stock 97 older ranger boxes used.

 

there is a guy on here (Chris aka ShoNuff82) running a chevy power steering pump.

Not sure why he choose that pump but I am trying to find out.


I plan on running a yota box, i have one now, but instead of plating the frame i think i am going to weld bushings on the inside of the frame for the 3 bolts and let the bolts go all the way through the frame, this will stiffen the frame where i need so that the frame cannot crush or twist.

 

I found that the frame has to be plated as the "crush" zone of the frame is right there where the steering box would go. The frame bulges out becuase of this. I cut that section out and welded the plate over it.

 

You cut the whole frame? or just the outside?

I will have some 1/4" plate for a few other things i am doing ill just add that in there as im doing it. I'm still going to use bushings inside it tho.

 

I cut a square section out of the side of the frame. Its like the 3x3" bump thats there. The plate I put on is the same size as the frame height wise and is about 14" or so long. When i was home I forgot to snap some pics of it.

 

Yah for paint....





First pic I circled the Bump in the frame. The second pic is where my frame plate covers.

 

So that bump is some type of crush point... didnt know that until this thread. wondered what it was for.

thanks for the tips.

 

yea im pretty sure that is the crumple zone that is built into the frame.

 

I guess we should cover some linked suspensions also.

3 link with panhard:

 

I also just recieved an email back from the Product Engineer from Trail-Gear about the yota IFS box. He said they recommend the Older style IFS box because it has a Larger and stronger Sector Shaft then the newer ones. The sector shaft for those who don't know is the "output" of the steering box.

 

Very good. That's what I was concerned about. Larger shaft = larger bearings also. Thanks.

IFS steering boxes can be designed weaker with no particular penalty and that's why I was concerned.

 

For comparison purposes, the box on the left is the older style while the box on the right is the newer style. They are easy to tell apart as they both have a different style input.

 

if they both have different style output then why is the pitman arm the same??

just wondering because aftermarket pitman arms fit on 86-94~95 IFS boxes.

 

The splines are the same its the part of the shaft inside the box that is stronger id assume.

 

mine looks to be the newer style.

 

I wouldnt worry to much about it. You can always look for an older style, I got mine from Foxfab on Pirate.

 

I'm not worried about it too much. Not like i wheel that much Let alone find rocks and such around here.

 

What about the TJ and YJ style Steering box. I think you could use these box. The 99 V8 Durango has a TJ style steering box. So much so that the Durango is a direct bolt in for a Tj and it is a heck of a lot stronger. I also believe the Dakotas of 99 are the same as the Durango steering wise. I am also sure you could make something work form one of these manufactures.
ARG
http://www.agrperformance.com/
PSC
http://www.pscmotorsports.com/
Howe
http://www.howeperformance.com/rockcrawling.html

Info for Toyota Steering Boxes.
http://www.marlincrawler.com/htm/steering.htm
http://www.allprooffroad.com/

 

Arent Wrangler boxes an inside rail setup? inside the rail boxes are a pretty tight fit.

 

For best steering geometry, your track-bar mount (if you have one) and your sector shaft should be on the same side of the frame. Mine will attach to the shock mount on the outside of the frame, so the steering box will need to go there also, or I'll need to re-engineer the track-bar mount.