Alright, so I lifted my 2011 XL 2.3 2WD with 4" spindles and when I get home today I'm installing 3" blocks on the back...
Unfortunately, I bought my wolf spindles from a 3rd party for a cheaper rate then the Wolf website and they said nothing about the whole Stabilitrak issue...

SURPRISE :)

Unfortunately now, the deed is done!
I took it out for a test drive last night after completing the install on the front end and at first it pretty much just limped with throttle down issues.
After it registered the ABS codes for both speed sensors, (c1296 for one side, and I can't remember the code for the other sensor but it's the same thing) it ended up riding just fine (I turned traction control off also)
Unfortunately, the ABS codes are still there and of course, I don't have traction control (not very concerned about not having it)

I've read forum after forum without any luck on a good solution. Does anyone have any information on this topic?
I've thought about possibly grinding down some of the cast iron on the spidle so that I can mount the sensor a little closer for a better reading.
Not sure if that would work either though...

If your wondering why I did this, it was actually because a spindle ended up getting pretty boogered up and it was cheaper to buy the entire lift then to get an OEM replacement spindle.
Unfortunately was not able to find any at the junkyard, so I figured why not just lift the damn thing..

On the bright side... It looks great! lol

Any information would be very, very much appreciated!

Thank you!

 

Did you ever figure it out? I have a 2010 2wd Sport with what I think is Stablitrack (Its the same as Traction Control isnt it?) anyways did you find a solution want to lift my truck about 3" but dont want to break things unnecessarily. I emailed Doestech and they said there spindles work on my truck with relatively no issues, they said they have had maybe two trucks that had stablitrak issues and they need to go to the dealer to get it sorted. This is the truck I want mine to look like. Anyways Thanks I appreciate any help!

 

So, after looking through every forum, I never found anyone making an update after they got their 2011 2wd ranger with advancetrac and a 4 inch spindle lift to operate correctly after installing it. I sorted out all the gremlins in mine and it works without activating the ABS, traction control, or throwing any codes, so I figured I’d share what I did to make mine work. I bought mine with the lift already installed. The dash had the traction control light and ABS light on. I figured it shouldn’t be too hard to sort out, not knowing it would take multiple tries, throwing parts at, doing a bunch of research on: advancetrac, ABS systems, passive vs active wheel speed sensors, air gap, and finally buying a scan tool capable of doing active sensor monitoring. I’ll spare you all my failures and growing pains and just get to the point: why all the kits say they don’t work with the 2011 models, and how you can make it work.

1. The wheel speed sensors on the 2011 are different from the older versions the kits are designed for. They won’t bolt up and work with the kit. If your wheel speed sensors don’t work the 2011 rangers freak out.
   
2. If you try to bolt up the old style wheel speed sensor, it fits in the holes and bolts up, but if you turn the wheel lock to lock you’ll likely crush the sensor between the spindle and lower control arm.
   
3. The old style sensors and the 2011 sensors have different connections.
   

Here’s what I did to make it all work:

1. Get the front of the truck on stands. Once it’s up in the air grab your tire and give it a couple pushes and pulls to ensure there’s basically no play. If you can feel noticeable play you need to take the caliper off the spindle, inspect all the parts for wear, pack that **** full of grease, and slap it back together (there’s no such thing as too much grease. Fit as much as you can pack in everywhere). That small bit of runout is enough to make the system freak out. Fix it.
   
2. Make a set of wheel speed sensors from the stock ones on the truck and a set that the kit is designed for. I cut the deutsch connectors off the 2011 wheel speed sensors and soldered them onto the old style wheel speed sensor. Then I used a multimeter to check the olms. It should be somewhere between 1000 and 2000 ohms (not sure if this is the exact spec for the ranger, but it’s in the ballpark for most passive systems). When I checked mine they were at 1400. When doing this make sure you have it on the correct ohms setting. When I initially checked mine it said 1.4 and it took me a minute to realize the little K on the screen means multiply that number by 1000.
   
3. Now you can test fit the sensors. Odds are the air gap is wildly out of spec--This is the distance between the end of the sensor and the tone ring that’s built into the caliper. When I put mine in to test fit, the air gap between the sensor and the tone ring both were almost .25 inches. To be within spec the air gap needs to be within .4-1.3mm. I machined off about .25 inches off both sides of the mounting point on the sensor. This got the sensor within the proper air gap spec and prevented the lower control arm from hitting the sensor at full steering lock.
   
   
4. Not really a step, but another thing you’ll want to check as you’re going along. You’ll need to check if your tone ring has any runout. I checked mine by mounting the sensor in and placing a light on the back side of the rotor. Then I looked through the vents in the rotor as I spun it at the tone ring to see if there was any wobble. With the sensor mounted in place it’s pretty easy to notice. You’ll see the tone ring get closer and further away from the sensor. If there’s a noticeable wable of the tone ring as you spin the rotor there’s too much runout and you’ll have to replace the rotor. This is only really a problem on the cheaper rotors with the cast tone rings. If you have OEM rotors this isn’t an issue. Only an issue if you bought the budget autozone joints like I did. They replaced the rotor I had with the wonky tone ring. Just check them. It might save you a lot of headaches.
   
5. Once you’re sure you have everything in spec and slapped together properly, you’re going to need to test drive it, and if you have some big meaty *** tires on small wheels, you’ve added another level of complexity. This system is touchy… It really doesn’t like puffy tires. You’ll want to have a scan tool that runs active tests, so you can monitor your individual wheel speeds during your first test. If you don’t have one, you can get the foxwell NT 630 for a little over $130 on Amazon (It’s hella cheap for how capable it is) or something similar, or borrow one from someone.
   
   When I initially test drove I was getting consistently about 1-1.5 mph difference between the front and rear wheel speeds with all my tires at 35 psi. This makes sense because the front tires have more weight over them than the rear. Plus, bigger tires squish more than smaller lower profile tires. This changes the total diameter of the wheel enough in the computer to make it do some dumb **** you wouldn’t have probably thought of. The more you squish a tire the smaller total diameter the wheel is to the computer. When I lowered the rear to 28 psi I got even readings when going in a straight line. Maintaining your air pressures is always important, but if you chose to lift a 2011 it's even more important. If you don't have good pressures the system will do dumb ****.
   
   Being able to actively test the sensors while driving will save you a lot of headaches. You’ll be able to tell what sensor is doing at all the times and review the logs. You might only have one sensor that’s dropping off causing your ABS to kick in but never long enough to throw a code. You'll see it in the logs and you can fix it.
   
   After messing with it for a long time I got everything to work as it should and haven't had any hiccups since. Good luck to anyone out here trying to sort one out. I hope this info helps. If I run into any issues further down the road I'll add updates to this thread.
   
   Also: if your truck freaks out and goes into limp mode just unplug the harness on the ABS control module. It will light your dash up like a chrismas tree, but your truck will drive again, just without ABS and traction control.