i tried to read the stickys but i dont have time to go through all the drama and random responses to answer my question. so i am sorry in advance if this bothers you.

i have a 06 level 2 with a tbar crank and just put sport trac leafs in the rear to replace the flattend stock ones.

the ride hight in the rear is perfect now with my factory level 2 lift blocks installed and the st leafs. i love it . i have 33s now with no troubles of rubbing any at all . even off roading. front diff lines up great and allignment is spot on. i have also gotten about 76k out of these bfg all terrains.

i would like to bring the front up about an inch to inch and a half.

OTHER THAN THE SUPERLIFT!!!!!!! what options do i have. i was going to fab a diff drop and try a different key torsion key and longer bolt? if this sounds dumb please fill me in on any options other than the rip off of a kit by superlift.


i also looked into sas swap but i dont have the time for that


any help please . thank you ranger forum!

 

There are no other options for the front.
T bar crank gets you 1.5 - 2". Superlift gets you 4"or 5.5" when you crank the t bars with the Superlift.

 

thanks. i have found that out today in my research! looks as if i will be sas this thing.

im going to go with a dana 30 out of a jeep im still unsure of what dana 30 i need though . high pinion or whatever the other options are i would like to know. i have a few for sale near me local for very cheap. just need to know what to look for or if im looking in the right direction?
i found 3 or 4 dana 30s from a 98+ wrangler. tj i think? if anyone knows if this is the axel i need please fill me in.
having bracketry or coil buckets and perches ect ect is not a problem i have a guy for all this and any other fab work. just want the axel to be the right one and a good starting piece.

 

please dont do a dana 30... do at least a 44 if you plan to wheel it.

just an fyi you cant drop the front diff without dropping the a arms as well in a ranger, axle plunge would go out of whack and pull out of the cv joint and then bind at bump. Not to mention the diff is already flush with the crossmember

 

cool thanks for the info. i am looking for a dana front axel so is the 44 the same width? if so ill get one of those and start the mok up

 

any fab work or bracing, welding,long arms ect ect, anything at all in that relm is no problem. i have a chassis and fab shop for all the special stuff. just dont want a really wide front . would like to keep the same geometry at all cost. is the dana 44 the right width? i dont want the front tires to stick out really wide? i would like to keep my factory alcoas

 

If you don't want to pay for a super lift then why are you paying for an SAS?! Waaaaayyyy more expensive. Especially since you just wanted to lift the front an inch.

 

well to clear things up a bit i am not a ranger gooroo like many of the guys on here. im a newbie here , all my knowlege is pure mustangs. i just know i love this truck and i have had it since it was new. now deciding i want to play with it a bit. i also know if i sas it i have much more options if i decide to go a bit more radical or serious with it. right now the back is perfect and the front isnt really far off. so im looking at all options and taking all notes and oppinions. anyone and any help is good. thankyou for the response

 

You are going to get a whole lot more than 1 inch in the front when you SAS it.

Google some pics on what you are getting yourself into. You'll probably need new tires too. Your 33s will look tiny.

 

check out the solid axle section above. its a fairly big deal to do compared to a superlift.
you can get the D44 out of a grand wagoneer which is a good width but wrong bolt pattern

 

thank you sir. as of now my 33s look tiny already so im sure a 35 or 37 would be next. debating cost now so its up in the air.. thanks for all the help guys and ranger forum!

 

Lots of people don't want to pay 2100$ (inc drive shaft)for a superlift, which keeps your shitty IFS suspension.
I refuse to pay that kind of money for stacked blocks in the rear. For the high seas piracy that is, they should at least give you a whole new leaf pack set for rear lift.
It will still ride like ****, and you will have to pay MORE to convert your superlifted truck to coils up front.
If I was keeping my truck id be doing a SAS, but I actually wheel my truck on rocks so it makes sense. If you are only street driving and the odd muddy trail here and there a superlift is probably fine