ok I went wheeling the other day "on 31" enter a small mud hole and got stuck did a few reverse-drive no big deal...and then snap! fawk...broke the front drive side axle didn't pound it or anything....so this morning I went and bought one "from a 2005" from a guy...."this is for my 07 level 2 with 4" superlift" at first the new one seem longer but after mesuring the where pretty much the same length but it have bigger boot...

anyway i install it in the truck anyway and then back up my driveway and guess what...SNAP the ****ing thing rip appart!

so then went to the scrap yard and bought another one from an 06...to find out that the 05 the guy sold me with bigger cv are from explorer...GERK...anyway...I did some research in the mean time and found out that some superlift bracket bend and bring the diff. to the passenger side...I chek mine dans the diff. is about 1" to the right...but no bracket seem bend...so i have put a 1/4 spacer between the axle and wheel bearing to prevent it to get out again...but did not went wheeling again...nor put it in 4wd..I am scare to broke it too

has this ever happen to someone? what was your fix for the diff not in the right spot?

what is broking my axle? would the explorer be a bad one?

sorry for huge post

 

Never heard a thing about it before... I know a guy on here with an RCD lift had some similar issues but not sure what caused it.

 

well superlifts come with the disclaimer that it will eat your front drive shaft in less than 20000 miles hence why they want you to by the superlift drive shaft for the extra 400 bucks which, i believe, is a bit longer or in some what different to compensate for the driveline angle (thats my guess)

 

yeah i know about the driveshaft....but that is not the problem....it the driver side cv axle

 

Do you have the bars cranked all the way up? Could just be over extending them or too much angle causing them to bind up.

 

my head hurts from reading that.


good luck on fixing it.

 

oh **** you were talking about cv axle ok. nevermind i wouldn't know other than maybe having too severe of a cv angle into the boot?

 

haha thx Tys 4x4 FTW for the compassion...
seed60 and abq02ranger the t-bars are crank a little bit I would said an inch...

For the first broken axle I think it my fault..the limiting strap where not install and I think the LCA bottom out being jack on a rut....

but for the second one...I back off 10 feet...so i am not sure what the !@#$ was wrong with that...

 

im with ya ty!


he wasnt making fun of your situation... read through your first post real carfully. at some points it seemed like a 3rd grader wrote that.

 

Maybe something different about the exploder axel is why it busted so quick, i wonder if anyone makes beefier cv shafts for this wonderful suspension rangers have.

 

i think builtright bullie was on to somthing not long ago with expo's being stronger. may look into it

 

why would you have limit straps if you have torsion bars too? just wondering i've never heard of that...

 

i didnt see anything about limit straps

 

[QUOTE=bigpotato555;1692342]
For the first broken axle I think it my fault..the limiting strap where not install and I think the LCA bottom out being jack on a rut....QUOTE]

 

I was running into the same problem with my RCD lift (busting cv shafts) only on the drivers side
my rcd brackets look tilted twards the pass side, like you said, wich would cause the drivers side cv to be to short
I have tryed to loosen all the brackets and push it back twards the drivers side, but it seems to settle back into the same position
with the rcd knuckles the stock cv's are already a little to short, the first rcd kits came with custom extended cv's
but then they started giving you spacers instead, I found that even with the spacers the cv's are to short
you would think that all replacment cv's would be the same length, but there are slight differents in lengths depending on the brand
some fit better than others but all were to short, so I bought a cv shaft for the newer explorers it has the same spline count
but is 2 1/2 inches longer than the rangers, and it was to long, so i had it shortend by a machine shop
it definatly wont pull apart now there is no way it realy can, even at full droop there is plent of the plunging end of the shaft still in the cup

if you got the cash I would have these guys make me a custom pair https://www.rcvperformance.com/store...products_id=53

 

explorer and ranger cv's are the same until 2006 some times they may look different but the lengths are the same

not stronger but 06 and up are longer

 

Koyn is an expert in CV axles now.

 

i would just break cv's all the damn time. **** would **** me off. i think i went through 5-6 cvs in 6 months. hence i am putting a dana 60 undeer the ranger now.

 

this guy sounds about like me went threw 5-6 in just a few months

 

dana 60 would solve a lot of problem....just replace all the ball joint also not even 40 000 miles on it...it not the front end I even seen...TTB rock..

so what you are saying Koyn is that pre 2006 model are shorten then the newer? that might explain the explorer one breaking...

anyone know if i could buy the 3 roller slider at the end of the shaft i could rebuilt the broken one...

and also if anyone know how to solve the diff beeing to the passenger side

btw thx to everybody for the help so far!!!

 

no the new expo shafts are to long to get every thing back togather so sound like you had a shaft from an older expo
they are the same as the ranger in length
you mite try puting a jack between the frame and diff and jack the diff over and then put a strap on it to hold it

 

Are they breaking or just pulling apart?

 

they are breaking appart at the diff...breaking the 3 roller slider in it path

 

How is the angle when it sitting on flat ground? Klc has a 4" and even more with coilovers and his angle is like stock. Was the tire spinning or lodged against something? I havent read much about the cv's breaking.

 

I dont know if your having the exact same problem i was but if you take the boot off and look at it at full droop
the top bearing would be a little out of the cup and with some torque that bearing would fail wich causes the rest to fail