Superlift knuckle question (with pic) - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


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  #1  
Old 08-31-2013
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Superlift knuckle question (with pic)

Hey guys. I've recently found a good deal on a complete used Superlift kit. The guy says it's for a 1998-1999 truck. I have a 2001 model. The knuckles he has are the older models with one set of holes for the brake caliper bracket. The knuckle also has some sort of tube for the ABS system that I've never seen before.

My question is, what will it take to make these work on my truck? Will I have to switch to smaller brake rotors while using all the rest of my brake system parts? Or will I have to drill an additional set of holes in the knuckles for my brake caliper brackets? I can't see where it would be that hard to do the drilling. It's not the space shuttle.

Also, does anyone know if the ABS tubes are easily removable? Would I just have to plug the hole or what? From what I do know, the ABS sensors on my truck are integrated into the unit bearings..

https://www.ranger-forums.com/attach...1&d=1377974675


GB
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Superlift knuckle question (with pic)-cam00190.jpg  
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Old 08-31-2013
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I would just pick up a set of the smaller rotors, they are fairly inexpensive. As for the ABS sensor I imagine you could pick up a bolt at the hardware store to plug the hole, or you could probably leave it as is also. Since the unit bearings are sealed it shouldn't cause any problems.
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Old 08-31-2013
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The bad thing about that is my rotors only have a few thousand miles on them.

What is the size difference? I forget. Also, what year or model of Ranger do the smaller rotors come on?


GB :)
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Old 08-31-2013
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Yours may already have the smaller rotors. If memory serves me correctly the 4x4s came with 11.25" rotors until 2003 when they switched to a 12" rotor.
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Old 08-31-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bird76Mojo View Post
What is the size difference?
11.27" versus 12.00"

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bird76Mojo View Post
Also, what year or model of Ranger do the smaller rotors come on?
Mid model year 2003's switched to the 12.00" setup.

When I purchased my smaller setup, I just told the parts place I had a 2002.
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Old 08-31-2013
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Oh, I thought I already had the larger rotors. Excellent! So all I would have to worry about would be the ABS tube on the older style knuckles. I think a NPT pipe plug fitting would work for that.

I'm thinking I should buy it. $500 sounds pretty good to me for all of the front parts.

Thanks guys!


GB :)
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Old 09-10-2013
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Quick question guys...

I've bought a used Superlift. My buddy picked it up for me but he's in Arizona. I'm in Illinois. So, we have to ship it. As of now, the shipping charges look to be right at $190-$200

How much did shipping cost you if you bought a used Superlift? Are there any tips on shipping it to save money?

The box weighed 140lbs at UPS on their scales.


I've looked into the USPS. They have a 70lb limit.
I've gotten quotes online at UPS.com and I looked at FEDEX online but their website is sh*t to actually use.
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Old 09-10-2013
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Try splitting it up into 2 boxes. There's your 70lb limit per box, ship parcel post (cheapest way), done.
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Old 09-10-2013
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Look at greyhound, they ship also. The only drawback is sometimes you have to go to their depot to pick it up. However if the savings are greater than the others it might be worth it.
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Old 09-10-2013
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My wife worked for greyhound in canada, there usually the best for heavy stuff. Make sure to get insurance though cause they only insure up to 100
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Old 09-10-2013
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It looks like we'll be boxing it up into two separate boxes and using the USPS. We had considered that option. I just hate to split it up like that, only for the USPS to damage and lose some parts. The chances are doubled basically. Plus I'm not sure about the "length + girth" limits they have. "Length + girth" <--- lolwut? USPS are you my ex-girlfriend?

I thought about Greyhound, and I had looked online at one time, but I could never find any info about using them for shipping. Only insuring it for $100 ain't gonna work for me.
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Old 09-10-2013
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When I bught my used Superlift/coilover conversion he split it into 4 boxes. It was still around $200 though
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Old 09-11-2013
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Thanks for the replies everyone. It looks like we'll be using the USPSand packing it in two separate boxes. It looks like it'll come in at around $140 for shipping.

We'll see..


GB :)
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Old 09-11-2013
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I paid 150 to have a F350 transmission, driveshafts, and clutch shipped to me. USF Holland.

Also that isn't an ABS tube, my bet is it is a vacuum line for pulse vacuum hubs. I believe you can just put your one piece live bearing hubs in instead.
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Old 09-11-2013
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Oh, I thought I had read somewhere (possibly Superlift documentation) that it was an ABS tube on the knuckle. Who knows? Anyway, as long as my hubs bolt in, I think I'm good to go.

I think I'll just silicone the hole. I was planning on installing a NPT pipe plug but I don't want to risk cracking those cast knuckles. Being that the hubs are sealed from that side, I don't think it's an issue.

USF HOLLAND?? Freight? Everything I've looked into so far is showing freight as stupid expensive.


GB :)
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Old 09-11-2013
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Well you will have ABS on your truck which will plug right in the top/side but the other hole is probably for pvh.
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Old 09-18-2013
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Another (probably dumb) question for you guys. I've been doing my homework on parts needed for my Superlift install and noticed this difference in my knuckles VS the superlift knuckles..

My 2001 factory knuckles have what appear to be a brass ring or seal surface pressed into them. It looks to be for the CV axle shaft seal to ride against. The Superlift knuckles do not have this. It's a straight through bore on the SL knuckles.

Here's the Superlift knuckles that I picked up. Although the picture is angled and looks odd, the I.D. is straight through on these: https://www.ranger-forums.com/attach...c-cam00190-jpg


The attached thumbnail is my truck currently. You can clearly see the brass or copper colored flange inside the knuckle.
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Superlift knuckle question (with pic)-img_20130829_115241_294.jpg  

Last edited by Bird76Mojo; 09-18-2013 at 10:14 PM.
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  #18  
Old 09-18-2013
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*duplicate post*

Last edited by Bird76Mojo; 09-18-2013 at 01:20 PM.
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Old 09-19-2013
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I guess I haven't been specific enough in explaining this. My factory knuckles don't have a seal pressed into them. They have a flanged ring pressed into the back side that the seal on my CV axle rides against. The flanged ring is more than likely steel but maybe it has a thick gold colored nickel coating?

Anyway, I'm really at a loss here. If I can find and actually get a seal from Ford that presses into the knuckle, then the seal on my CV isn't needed. If I just stick with the seal on my CV, I'd need the press-in ring for the knuckles.

I can't find any of these parts on RockAuto or any other Ford parts website. I guess everyone must be as confused as I am?
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Old 09-21-2013
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Alright guys, another question, since no one seems to have a definitive answer for the last one. I'll just go to Ford and see what happens on those seals..

Today I was cleaning and painting the Superlift parts. I noticed that the crossmembers for the front suspension drop are angled a certain way. The plates that are welded onto the ends of the square tubes are angled. Anyone know which way they get installed on the truck? The Superlift instructions make no mention of this. I did use the search function with no results.

The crossmembers, viewed from the top, look like this. One of two ways:

/=======\

or this

\=======/

Which way to they get installed?


GB :)
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  #21  
Old 09-22-2013
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Is anybody on this site anymore?
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Old 09-22-2013
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Been a few years since I installed mine... I don't remember them being like that. I'm about 99% sure mine were straight.
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Old 09-22-2013
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Thanks for the reply! They're angled, ever so slightly. Both of the angles match, so I don't think it's been wrecked or anything.
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Old 09-22-2013
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I'm just trying to minimize any surprises ahead of time, so my truck is off of the road as little as possible. Less down time, more drive time..
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Old 09-22-2013
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I do remember mine being angled, I actually got one crossmember installed and had to flip it around to get it in. Once you have the a arms off mock it all in place. Also don't tighten the 8 3/8ths bolts on the crossmembers until they are installed in the stock a arm pockets and the a arms are back in. Other wise things won't line up very well.
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