Superlift knuckle question (with pic) - Page 2 - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


Suspension Tech General discussion of suspension for the Ford Ranger.

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  #26  
Old 09-22-2013
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Sweet deal.. Thanks guys. I guess i was just over thinking it. Trying to hope for some pre-assembly, but installing the control arm drops, then the crossmembers would clear it all up quickly i guess.

Thanks again.

I'm sure I'll be back with me questions about the lift. I'll keep this thread updated as i gather and modify parts..
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  #27  
Old 09-22-2013
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Here is a picture of mine from the front. It looks like it angles slightly out toward the back. I have a 99 ranger that used those same super lift knuckles with the pvh. If you want the right seal for the back of the those knuckles ask for one from 99 ranger. I will warn you if you go that route they were like $40 bucks a piece at napa.
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  #28  
Old 09-22-2013
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bump

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  #29  
Old 09-22-2013
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BAM! Green99, that pic is exactly what i needed to see. Thanks man! Not so worried now..

99offroad, that pic is still hilarious!
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  #30  
Old 09-22-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bird76Mojo View Post
BAM! Green99, that pic is exactly what i needed to see. Thanks man! Not so worried now.. 99offroad, that pic is still hilarious!
I found it looking for an old picture so I had to post it lol.
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  #31  
Old 09-26-2013
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x2 on all helpful posts already made.


I believe you can run the 98-99 knuckles on your 00+ without issue. If memory serves me correctly, the live axle trucks don't require any seals between the bearing and the knuckle...and the knuckle and CV. Only the PVH (98-99) trucks did. If the little tube gets in the way, cut that sucker off. Best bet to make darn well those knuckles are usable for you is to take an afternoon and tear apart one side of your truck and see how the knuckle and CV fit to the SL knuckles. I wish I could help you better, I just don't remember. But do remember I've never used a seal on the knuckle and my SL has been on mine since Spring '08.


It only goes in one way....I too installed one of the cross members the wrong way and had to flip it. And I also believe the crossmembers have pre-drilled holes on the bottom side. And remember, torsion bars are different length's....one side is shorter than the other. And you can get away without the $175 torsion key tool by releiving all pressure from the key and removing anything holding up the lower control arm from drooping all the way. Everything that needs removed to accomplish that, needs removed to install the lift. Install is reverse and kind of cumbersome if only one person.
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Old 09-26-2013
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Thanks for the reply Shane. Did you see the picture of my factory knuckle though? It's has a flanged ring pressed into it for the cv shaft seal to ride against.

The Superlift crossmembers I'll just have to try both ways i figure. There are drainage holes in the top and bottom of the square tube though. For the Superlift skid to attach to.
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  #33  
Old 09-26-2013
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The torsion bars don't scare me none. Lol I've already swapped them to the #1 bars.
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