t-bar problem - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


Suspension Tech General discussion of suspension for the Ford Ranger.

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Old 08-21-2005
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t-bar problem

Ok lets get this over with...I know where they are and how to crank them.

Anyways, I was trying to readjust them because I think my front end is sagging pretty good and I broke a socket trying to crank it.

.

Now I adjusted them about 4 months ago and my driver side is sitting about 1" lower than the passenger side. My question is should I just buy new bars or try to re-index these. I have 96,000 (+/-) on the truck and she is going to ford in the next two weeks for her last checkup before the extended warranty runs out.

Thanks, Jeff
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Old 08-21-2005
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i dont totally understand u're problem

the bolt that u use to adjust the torsion key is broke? or your socket? if its the socket....errr...just go back to sears and get another one....

if its the bolt, u can just buy another bolt from ford (or go to a jy) and then get the origional bolt out....drill it out i should say
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Old 08-21-2005
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All deflected steel springs degrade over time. The greater the deflection, the more rapid the decline.

Lifting the truck by cranking the torsion bars pushes the front suspension into the upper part of its travel, meaning that the bars will be twisted beyond the design intent when it bottoms out. Result? Early spring fatigue and sagging. You can crank them some more until you run out of adjustment but they will continue to degrade in the future. Reindexing them is asking for a torsion bar failure, especially at high miles.

Your 02 FX4 probably originally came with #1 torsion bars (strongest available). Check the first number of the spring rate code on your door to be sure. The only action that will restore them to original performance is replacement.

#1 bars part numbers:

F67Z#5B326#FA Pass side bar 1stfordparts price $37.72
F67Z#5B326#FB Drivers side bar 1stfordparts price $37.38
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Old 08-21-2005
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Thanks Bob.

I didnt crank them till I had about 80k miles or so. So its not like I have been cranking and cranking since day one.

So my next question is changing them. Is it easier to use the puller or to just take everthing off and lower the A-arm and slide them out?

btw the socket broke Brent. Its too bad too, because this is an old school socket from my grandpa. They dont make thick wall sockets like these anymore.
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Old 08-21-2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PotterFX4
So my next question is changing them. Is it easier to use the puller or to just take everthing off and lower the A-arm and slide them out?
I haven't changed a set myself. The factory manual shows a special puller for that operation.

Word is that you can raise the front of the truck on jackstands to unload the suspension, back off the adjuster bolts and then use a 2-jaw puller to finish it up. It would prabably be a good idea to use a good quality puller that fits well - I have heard that some people have had problems with the puller slipping off.

The adjuster bolts are factory coated with a dry adhesive locking compound and Ford says that they must be replaced anytime they have been backed off.
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Old 08-21-2005
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Good deal. Thanks again Bob.
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  #7  
Old 08-22-2005
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make sure you loosen the upper control arms at the frame before making any adjustments, then rethighten . not doing this will bind the bushings in the upper arms and will ruin the upper balljoints!
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