How bad do you guys think a set of traction bars would hurt my flex in the rear? I ask because i have some pretty good axle hop in the rear end with the new chevy springs. I was thinking somthing like this for the rear without the u-joint deal i would just use a heim up there.









I was also thinking something like this the black tube would be sleeved and have pins for on the road and at the dunes and such where as much flex is not needed and when i go trail riding i could pull the pins and then would have all my flex back. Would the red bar be needed in my situation where i have axle hop kand not so much wrap.

 

What about doing a knock off of the JD traction bars? Dont really know if things will get in the way.

 

I like the idea of those man. Good work. Idk about flex though.

That driveline looks like it'll twist like a pretzel!

 

um fix your pinion angle! that is your problem. not traction bars. your pinion angle is so far off that its making the axle hop.

that is just my opinion though. i dont have any facts behind it other than i have seen it before.

 

Its a member of pirate 4x4 is where i mostly got my idea.
I did take the wedges off the leafs and the pinion angleis not as bad now its pretty much strait with the drive shaft now which i know still isnt good.

 

Just make some knock of JD's, we dont have any rocks to climb here in MI so you wont break them.

 

Ew, yeah, fix your pinion angle. I don't believe the traction bar like that would hurt flex bad, but it NEEDS to be mounted with a shackle on the front part. Otherwise you just made a radius arm basically, and it will bind up when the suspension moves at all.

 

If you change your pinion angle and still have it, you could always move your shock tabs. One that mounts towards the front of the truck and one that mounts towards the back (on either side of the axle) like the newer trucks. I know what's why they mount them like that.

 

My shocks are already like that, dang i dont wanna grind them leaf perches off again could i just put a set of wedges in backwards and see if that fixes my problem so then it rotates the pinion down instead of up?

 

They make pinion shims. The go at the bottom of the leaf pack after you pull out your center pin. Put the center pin back in with the shim in place and tighten it up then re bolt your u-bolts. They're pretty cheap. I'd say you should run either a 6 or 8 degree shim.

 

thats is what i was talking about but my pinion is to far up so i would have to put them in backwarks in order for them to help

 

Do you have shackles?

 

yes bell 6400's

 

You put the larger part towards the front. The shackles with kick the pinion whereas putting those degreed shims in with the larger part forward pushes it back down. That's how the RCD's are ran. My buddy thought they were in wrong the whole time before realizing I had shackles.

 

Thats the design I'm going to copy, except make sure where the upper and lower pieces come together is as far up as you can get it. and no, I'm pretty sure that design won't limit your travel at all, and if it does a very small amount. just make it out of some strong material.

pinion angle has a lot to do with it... but he's still gotta get something in there eventually.. there's a reason most leaf sprung trucks have them haha

no need for a shackle, he's doing the twist and slip it looks like.

 

He said he is planning on leaving the pins in on the road though. That would probably have some odd behaviors and bind over speed bumps and dips and such.
As the suspension compresses the "traction bar" will try to push the axle back, when it droops it will try to drag it forward. How much, I have no idea. May or may not be enough to notice on the road but I wouldn't want it solid mounted like that at any time.

 

it wouldn't be solid mounted? what pins?

the pic he has is the axle shaft (smaller diameter) inside another piece of tube or pipe.. they slide in and out as the axle droops, then is allowed to rotate with the axle..


unlesssss that's how he was imaging it.. but it has to either be able to slip inside each other, or have a shackle, something's gotta give.

 

with those springs he should have little to no axle wrap with no more power than what he is putting out.

he needs to have the pinion angle set so its the same angle at the top. you cant have it straight at the bottom because then the angle goes over flat when he accelerates. Like Jey was mentioning.

 

Right now the pinion angle is right in line with the drive shaft so they are both strait in line with each other the pinion should be angled down correct ill try to get pics today of the pinion angle.

 

get an angle finger from harbor freight and find the angle off the back of the tcase. then set the rear end to the opposite.

Like my truck the tcase was negative 7 degrees so i set my rear end to positive 7 degrees.

 

As you change the rear angle, the front angle is going to change too. They need to be almost equal/opposite. 1-2 degrees down at the pinion to to make up for slight axle rotation during acceleration. 1 degree difference is needed to make slight friction for the bearings to turn.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong please.

 

I know it goes up, everyone tells me mine does

but why can't he have a traction bar? its not like its a bad thing to have..

 

Im thinking something like this setup


[/QUOTE]
What do you guys think?

 

https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ad.php?t=59624

 

Thats almost exactly what i was thnking of Dosent look like they bind at all

sorry for stealing that pic 2002FX4