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Suspension Tech General discussion of suspension for the Ford Ranger.

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  #26  
Old 04-02-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seed60 View Post
Not sure if he will see this thread, but they rattled haha everytime he left my house i could here him a block away.

And they are no longer on his truck. He bend the **** out of one of them, and took both of them off.
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  #27  
Old 04-02-2009
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what truck is that????
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  #28  
Old 04-02-2009
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Yeah the telescoping idea looks a little cheesy to me. It also looks really noisy with the play between the tubes. It would seem like they would be easy to break where the smaller tube hits the inside of the bigger tube, too much play. Any less play and any rust build up would either make it bind more or make more noise.
Also the rubber bushings don't seem ideal, and the mounts don't extend far from the axle...
I don't know, it's a cool idea but it doesn't seem very practical to me.

I think the heim joints with a shackle in the front would work better still.
But I haven't personally driven with either, myself.
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  #29  
Old 04-02-2009
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Warrior also makes traction bars similar to Duff, called torque bars. They are telescoping also, don't know anyone who has tried them.
http://www.warriorproducts.com/catal...orqueBarz.html
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  #30  
Old 04-02-2009
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I've posted this in your SAS thread as well but since you made another thread asking the same question. Here ya go.

Quote:
Just a characteristic of leaf springs in general.

Build an anti-wrap bar to help prevent the axle wrap.

Connect it at 2 points on the axle (vertically) and at the frame side connect it with a shackle the goes from the front of the anti-wrap bar DOWN to a mount on a crossmember. If the shackle goes up from the bar to the mount it will do the opposite and hurt your geometry.

Read this http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...=anti+wrap+bar
Quote:
The anti-wrap bar should go to the forward mounting point of the leafs and have a shackle going down to a mount and the shackle should generally be close to the length of the shackles on the leafs.

I think a plunging anti-wrap bar would be overly complicated and would have a higher potential of failure (slop causing it to do this /\ and possibly seize)
EDIT: Also, the pins that lock movement in your plunging design would NOT be good. As the springs compress the shackles pivots rearward and the axle has to move back. With pins preventing your anti-wrap bar from extending it could cause breakage (welds) and unpredictable/unsafe handling
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  #31  
Old 04-03-2009
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So the shackle should come down from the bar and then bolt to a mount and not come up?
I am understanding it like this and the shackle should be the same or about the same length as my leaf shackles correct?
Name:  T-bar.jpg
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  #32  
Old 04-03-2009
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You don't need that filled in where you have it all black. Tubes will do just fine. 2 of them.

I like that idea though.
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  #33  
Old 04-07-2009
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Originally Posted by ford rules View Post
So the shackle should come down from the bar and then bolt to a mount and not come up?
I am understanding it like this and the shackle should be the same or about the same length as my leaf shackles correct?
yes.

yes.
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  #34  
Old 05-06-2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ford rules View Post
Im thinking something like this setup


What do you guys think?[/QUOTE]

i see 3 major things wrong
1) his welding sucks
2) the shackle has to go up, not down
and 3) he just lost a TON of ground clearance doing that.

not to mention you can put it right next to the pumpkin and not need 2.
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