Just wondering if anyone has some knowledge of what the weak links are of the D44 from the Wagoneers? I yanked mine out 2 weeks ago, and am still cleaning the sh*t off of it, and probably will be for another week. Anyway, I have it fully disassembled. Once it's cleaned, I will definitely be replacing the differential, gears, and all seals and bearings, and converting to 5x5.5. Are the axles/u-joints good enough, or should I upgrade them? Any other suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.

Ricky

 

what are you going to do with it? what size tires? etc...

 

I would use the best ball joints, bearings, etc that you can afford to buy. Spicer ball joints are really nice as are Moog. Believe me, buying top quality stuff will definitely save you money in the long run and keep you from the frustration of breaking stuff as frequently as you would with low quality components. I would also upgrade to 760x u-joints rather than stock 297's. They only cost about $25 appiece and offer a lot more strength. If you aren't going to upgrade to chromoly axle shafts buy an extra set of inners and outers to have on hand if you break. I would also suggest carrying at least one extra u-joint and ball joint on the trail with you. Good luck.

 

So Chromemoly Axles are a good idea then? I basically want to do it right the first time. It will be geared with 5.13s, Full Spool, running 38s.

 

so if you have the 297s you can run the 760x?

my D30 has the 297s so I can upgrade as well?

 

yes,you can polish your turd....

 

If you are planning on running 38's I would run chromoly shafts with 760x u-joints and full circle clips. Really, you would be better off with a set of CTM's or some other alloy u-joint. Also, I would advise against a full spool and go with a Detriot locker.

 

why not a full spool?

 

It'd make it REALLY hard to turn. You'd need hydro assist steering. It'd also make your tires wear badly and give you a TERRIBLE turning radius. A full carrier replacement locker like the Detroit is the stronger alternative to a lunchbox locker, but lets you keep more streetable characteristics on the road while giving you the traction you need off-road.

 

I wouldn't run a spool unless it's going to be a strickly mud truck. Otherwise I would go with a Detroit. Like Gearhead said, turning will be much more difficult unless you do hydro assist. If you want a less expensive option just buy a LockRight, slap it in your stock carrier, and buy thick 5.13 gears.

 

I belive the Wagoneer D44 Is a low pinion. If you upgrade the axels and u joints. I would bet on the ring gear puking first.

 

Low pinion isnt as "weak" as most are lead to believe. Its only like 10% weaker then HP and thats a guesstimated number. There was a thread on pirate a while back, out of the couple hundred replies of people who run low pinion 44's only like 5 of those guys had actually broken one.

 

I know the bait. I had a similar debate about the LP D60. I was unclear with my post. If he up grades the shafts and u joints at the knuckles I think the ring gear will be the week link.

 

I know, I was saying that even with that being the weak link it wont really matter as its not that weak. The only broken ones ive seen were on 38's and above anyways.

 

I just took my mini-spool out, I couldn't take it anymore.

The chirping, clicking, and all the other noises just got to me. Not for a DD unless you can handle it!!!

 

Keep in mind that this was in a rear axle which is engaged all the time, unlike the front axle which isn't engaged unless the transfer case is in 4wd mode and the hubs are locked. A spool or mini spool would make absolutely no difference on the street in a front axle since it wouldn't be engaged. On the trail the steering input would still be harder and the turning radius could be affected when compared to other types of locking differentials.

 

so technically, The only issues I'll run into with a spool is when it's in 4wd and the hubs are locked. It won't give me a hard time on the street in 2wd, correct?

 

If it was mine I would not want a spool up front. When front hubs are locked in and it is out of 4 wheel drive your turning radius will just suck and it will put a lot of stress on the U Joints. If you are looking at the cheep front traction adder and don't want a lunch box. throw a track lock up there it is a limited slip. It is 100% rebuild able and will not break your wallet. That is my two cents.

 

That is correct, but I would still go with a LockRight or a Detroit.