What are these bars called? - Ranger-Forums - The Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource


Suspension Tech General discussion of suspension for the Ford Ranger.

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Old 11-12-2010
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What are these bars called?

What are these bars called? (I want to say torsion bars, but I know I'd be wrong)
The weird part is that one side stands proud of the lower control arm (I think that's the way it's suppose to be because I've seen other trucks like this) The other side is recessed into the lower control arm but what's even stranger than that is that the bar that didn't take a hit is the one that sitting back inside the LCA and the side that took a hit is sticking out.
The bar on the side that took a hit is bent and it has to be replaced.

How do you replace these bars? and the one that is pushed into the LCA, can it be knocked back out by hitting the other end?

Any help would be greatly appreciated,

Brian

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Old 11-12-2010
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you are correct those are the torsion bars
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Old 11-12-2010
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Yep those are your torsion bars. The reason the ps is sticking out is because the frame is bent, probably near the front cab mount. The rear mount for the bar is most likely in the proper location so that will give you an idea how far the frame is pushed back. To remove the bars you need to remove the shock(so the suspension can flex down)(jack under frame not suspension) and unscrew the tension bolt on the back all the way and disassemble the rear mount. Once the rear is disassembled the bar should come right out of the lower control arm. Be careful springs(and torsion bars) store energy that can hurt you!
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Old 11-13-2010
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Originally Posted by wvcat View Post
Yep those are your torsion bars. The reason the ps is sticking out is because the frame is bent, probably near the front cab mount. The rear mount for the bar is most likely in the proper location so that will give you an idea how far the frame is pushed back. To remove the bars you need to remove the shock(so the suspension can flex down)(jack under frame not suspension) and unscrew the tension bolt on the back all the way and disassemble the rear mount. Once the rear is disassembled the bar should come right out of the lower control arm. Be careful springs(and torsion bars) store energy that can hurt you!
Well, I guess I'm starting to learn what all these suspension parts are called
I knew you would come to the rescue on this one. I guess the torsion bars that I seen sticking out on the other trucks were cranked.
So, normally the torsion is back into the octogan hole instead of sticking out of it?
I'm also wondering about what part is going to release the energy so I don't get my head knocked off.
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Old 11-13-2010
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dont try to use a c clamp to remove them, itll hurt u...buy a torsion bar tool, yes they are expensive, but can u really put a price on being able to use your hands
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Old 11-13-2010
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Can you rent a torsion bar tool? And where would I even put the C-Clamp? I don't have the first clue about removing a torsion bar.
Can someone post some pictures?
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Old 11-13-2010
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Can you rent a torsion bar tool?
i think you should be able to

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Originally Posted by BlackRanger04 View Post
I don't have the first clue about removing a torsion bar.
a chilton or haynes manual should tell you
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Old 11-13-2010
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I used a standard 2 jaw puller from Sears to change out my torsion bars. It worked well but you have to be super careful as the puller will try to slip one direction when tightening it. You have to hold it at the correct angle as you tighten it or it will fly off and possibly hurt you.

Here's the puller I used: Craftsman

It's not a bad job though. Once you do one side, you fly through the other side.

BE CAREFUL.


GB :)
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Old 11-13-2010
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I can't fully remember but I think i removed the shock and unhooked the upper/lower ball joints. Then the front suspension just went the full way down and the tbar was easy as hell to remove by hand.
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Old 11-13-2010
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jack the truck up in the air let the front suspension droop all the way then take off the protective plates covering the key.... pull the adjustment bolt all the way out (heat it up to make your job easier). use a jack with a piece of wood or whatever to unseat the key.

no need for a "torsion bar tool"
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Old 11-13-2010
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Thanks for all the advise ... It sounds like the way 99offroadrngr does it sounds safer and I wouldn't need a torsion bar tool.
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Old 11-13-2010
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In my opinion, it'd be just as dangerous using a jack as it would to use a puller like I did. It's only safe using the correct tool meant for removing Ford torsion bars. I know I had both of mine swapped out, using the puller, in less than 3 hours.

To each his own though.


GB :)
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Old 11-13-2010
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I think I'm going to have somebody do this for me. It sounds like I could get killed doin this.
Would anyone be interested in replacing a torsion bar for me?
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Old 11-13-2010
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here is a thread I had on this with pics. it is not really that dangerous if you do it right.
https://www.ranger-forums.com/f15/t-bar-how-97289/
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Old 11-13-2010
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Originally Posted by Bird76Mojo View Post
In my opinion, it'd be just as dangerous using a jack as it would to use a puller like I did. It's only safe using the correct tool meant for removing Ford torsion bars. I know I had both of mine swapped out, using the puller, in less than 3 hours.

To each his own though.


GB :)
you need to put your purse down on the table and take the gloves off when working on a truck
1hr TOPS to do both sides. the hardest part is to take the adjustment bolt off but if you heat it up and use an impact gun to blast it out theres no problems at all
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Old 11-13-2010
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Yeah, it's not difficult or dangerous if you use common sense.
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Old 11-14-2010
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Well I'll be dam, This doesn't look too dangerous. I thought a spring was gonna come flyin out and knock my head off when I unbolted that cover plate.
Thanks for all the instructions on how to do this.
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Old 11-14-2010
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Originally Posted by 99offroadrngr View Post
you need to put your purse down on the table and take the gloves off when working on a truck
1hr TOPS to do both sides. the hardest part is to take the adjustment bolt off but if you heat it up and use an impact gun to blast it out theres no problems at all

I'd do it 99offroadranger's way. Seriosuly, nothing is gonna go flying. Just make sure your truck is supported solidly.
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Old 11-14-2010
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Originally Posted by 99offroadrngr View Post
you need to put your purse down on the table and take the gloves off when working on a truck
1hr TOPS to do both sides. the hardest part is to take the adjustment bolt off but if you heat it up and use an impact gun to blast it out theres no problems at all

That's the most idiotic response I could ever imagine. lol I'm not a professional mechanic and I've never claimed to be one. I also take my sweet time when doing a job. No reason not to. I also have no air compressors, impacts, etc.. From opening the shed and dragging the tools out, to finishing the job and putting the tools up, it took me those three hours. I can see how some people would finish it faster. Good for them.

I'll make sure your mom doesn't forget her purse though.



GB :)
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Old 11-14-2010
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Originally Posted by Bird76Mojo View Post
That's the most idiotic response I could ever imagine. lol I'm not a professional mechanic and I've never claimed to be one. I also take my sweet time when doing a job. No reason not to. I also have no air compressors, impacts, etc.. From opening the shed and dragging the tools out, to finishing the job and putting the tools up, it took me those three hours. I can see how some people would finish it faster. Good for them.

I'll make sure your mom doesn't forget her purse though.



GB :)


It's a lot easier and safer to use a jack than a tbar puller but honestly.....Both activities are easy as hell. I also didn't use air compressors/impacts. Just hand tools.


But as to the time, I prolly took more than 3 hours. I'm slow
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Old 11-14-2010
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Originally Posted by Bird76Mojo View Post
That's the most idiotic response I could ever imagine. lol I'm not a professional mechanic and I've never claimed to be one. I also take my sweet time when doing a job. No reason not to. I also have no air compressors, impacts, etc.. From opening the shed and dragging the tools out, to finishing the job and putting the tools up, it took me those three hours. I can see how some people would finish it faster. Good for them.

I'll make sure your mom doesn't forget her purse though.



GB :)
How is it an idiotic response? You said that using a jack is just as dangerous as using your puller which is completely false, you should probably just bring your truck to a shop every time you need to get your tires rotated since you think its "dangerous" to use it to jack up on the torsion key and you probably also sit down to pee. I'm no mechanic either but I also don't shake like a little girl when I do anything on the truck. I've swapped mine out ONCE and it took me an hour, although it doesn't matter how long it takes because everyone works at a different pace.

Last edited by 99offroadrngr; 11-14-2010 at 05:35 PM.
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Old 11-14-2010
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We're all very happy for you and amazed at your superior wrench turning skills and super speed. lol

I'll keep working on all of my trucks thanks.. I always have and always will. No shaking or quivering involved. Again, just idiotic.



GB :)
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Old 11-14-2010
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We're all very happy for you and amazed at your superior wrench turning skills and super speed. lol
It's called an impact wrench you fool and you must be the only one amazed since you don't have one. Get with it dumbass.


oh yeah btw if using the puller is dangerous why would you tell him to use one? Sounds pretty idiotic to me.
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Old 11-14-2010
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Toreador4x4 in MI did not use a t-bar tool and swapped in my #1 inless then 30 minutes..
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Old 11-14-2010
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Toreador4x4 in MI did not use a t-bar tool and swapped in my #1 inless then 30 minutes..
I did it how he did but in double the time because im still a newb but thanks to him i got em done

Were you amazed by the speeds of an impact wrench? its insane!!!!
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