View Poll Results: Which Wheels
Wheel #1
20
28.17%
Wheel #2
8
11.27%
Wheel #3
29
40.85%
Wheel #4
14
19.72%
Voters: 71. You may not vote on this poll
Another Wheel Poll...Which ones do you like?
XD Addicts in black would look killer against your paint. But I believe there more pricey than the ones you posted.
Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 3,650
Likes: 2
From: Hillsboro, Oregon
Do not order new wheels until you are 100% sure what you are doing to the truck for lift.
On a leveled F150, some 35s fit with stock wheels. The KM2s work because they do not have aggressive side lugs. There is about 1/4" clearance from the upper balljoint, and the tire may contact the upper control arm occasionally (barely) at full lock. Just enough to make a tiny little clean spot on the control arm. When the tires are turned, there is about 1/4" clearance between the tire and the back edge of the fender. It is a super tight fit. If any aftermarket wheels would work with 35s and a leveling kit, it would probably be those ultras due to their backspacing. I believe they are 5.75" BS and 8.5" wide iirc (I almost bought some). That means the inside of the wheel is moved in 1/4" and the outside of the wheel is moved out 3/4". In other words the center of the tire would shift OUT 1/4". That might work, or the tire could have a wider profile and rub the upper balljoint.
A wheel with less backspacing (most are 9" wide with 4.5" BS) would push the wheel out quite a bit, the outside edge of the wheel would be moved out 2.5" over the stock one. This increases the 'scrub radius' when you turn the wheel left and right, and the tire moves back and forth more in the fenders. You would have to cut quite a bit into the fender I believe with a leveling kit.
On the other end of things, different lift kits require different backspacing to clear the taller knuckles. Most kits suggest 4.5" backspacing. The only one that allows stock backspacing that I know of, is the Rancho kit.
The main reason I haven't purchased new wheels is because I haven't decided which lift I'm going with. And I think I'm going to switch to 17s when I do.
On a leveled F150, some 35s fit with stock wheels. The KM2s work because they do not have aggressive side lugs. There is about 1/4" clearance from the upper balljoint, and the tire may contact the upper control arm occasionally (barely) at full lock. Just enough to make a tiny little clean spot on the control arm. When the tires are turned, there is about 1/4" clearance between the tire and the back edge of the fender. It is a super tight fit. If any aftermarket wheels would work with 35s and a leveling kit, it would probably be those ultras due to their backspacing. I believe they are 5.75" BS and 8.5" wide iirc (I almost bought some). That means the inside of the wheel is moved in 1/4" and the outside of the wheel is moved out 3/4". In other words the center of the tire would shift OUT 1/4". That might work, or the tire could have a wider profile and rub the upper balljoint.
A wheel with less backspacing (most are 9" wide with 4.5" BS) would push the wheel out quite a bit, the outside edge of the wheel would be moved out 2.5" over the stock one. This increases the 'scrub radius' when you turn the wheel left and right, and the tire moves back and forth more in the fenders. You would have to cut quite a bit into the fender I believe with a leveling kit.
On the other end of things, different lift kits require different backspacing to clear the taller knuckles. Most kits suggest 4.5" backspacing. The only one that allows stock backspacing that I know of, is the Rancho kit.
The main reason I haven't purchased new wheels is because I haven't decided which lift I'm going with. And I think I'm going to switch to 17s when I do.
Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 2,099
Likes: 0
From: ***
I vote 4!
But I also agree with the guy who told you to get the XD addicts
Listen to what Brian and others have said about the backspacing, if your stuffing the 35s on aftermarket wheels you should be wary of the specs, unless you don't mind a trim here or there.
But I also agree with the guy who told you to get the XD addicts
Listen to what Brian and others have said about the backspacing, if your stuffing the 35s on aftermarket wheels you should be wary of the specs, unless you don't mind a trim here or there.
Do not order new wheels until you are 100% sure what you are doing to the truck for lift.
On a leveled F150, some 35s fit with stock wheels. The KM2s work because they do not have aggressive side lugs. There is about 1/4" clearance from the upper balljoint, and the tire may contact the upper control arm occasionally (barely) at full lock. Just enough to make a tiny little clean spot on the control arm. When the tires are turned, there is about 1/4" clearance between the tire and the back edge of the fender. It is a super tight fit. If any aftermarket wheels would work with 35s and a leveling kit, it would probably be those ultras due to their backspacing. I believe they are 5.75" BS and 8.5" wide iirc (I almost bought some). That means the inside of the wheel is moved in 1/4" and the outside of the wheel is moved out 3/4". In other words the center of the tire would shift OUT 1/4". That might work, or the tire could have a wider profile and rub the upper balljoint.
A wheel with less backspacing (most are 9" wide with 4.5" BS) would push the wheel out quite a bit, the outside edge of the wheel would be moved out 2.5" over the stock one. This increases the 'scrub radius' when you turn the wheel left and right, and the tire moves back and forth more in the fenders. You would have to cut quite a bit into the fender I believe with a leveling kit.
On the other end of things, different lift kits require different backspacing to clear the taller knuckles. Most kits suggest 4.5" backspacing. The only one that allows stock backspacing that I know of, is the Rancho kit.
The main reason I haven't purchased new wheels is because I haven't decided which lift I'm going with. And I think I'm going to switch to 17s when I do.
On a leveled F150, some 35s fit with stock wheels. The KM2s work because they do not have aggressive side lugs. There is about 1/4" clearance from the upper balljoint, and the tire may contact the upper control arm occasionally (barely) at full lock. Just enough to make a tiny little clean spot on the control arm. When the tires are turned, there is about 1/4" clearance between the tire and the back edge of the fender. It is a super tight fit. If any aftermarket wheels would work with 35s and a leveling kit, it would probably be those ultras due to their backspacing. I believe they are 5.75" BS and 8.5" wide iirc (I almost bought some). That means the inside of the wheel is moved in 1/4" and the outside of the wheel is moved out 3/4". In other words the center of the tire would shift OUT 1/4". That might work, or the tire could have a wider profile and rub the upper balljoint.
A wheel with less backspacing (most are 9" wide with 4.5" BS) would push the wheel out quite a bit, the outside edge of the wheel would be moved out 2.5" over the stock one. This increases the 'scrub radius' when you turn the wheel left and right, and the tire moves back and forth more in the fenders. You would have to cut quite a bit into the fender I believe with a leveling kit.
On the other end of things, different lift kits require different backspacing to clear the taller knuckles. Most kits suggest 4.5" backspacing. The only one that allows stock backspacing that I know of, is the Rancho kit.
The main reason I haven't purchased new wheels is because I haven't decided which lift I'm going with. And I think I'm going to switch to 17s when I do.
Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 3,650
Likes: 2
From: Hillsboro, Oregon
Thanks for the info man, I will probably hold off on the wheels and just mount the tires to the factory wheels(Not planning on lifting her anytime soon)...All this backspacing stuff is confusing as hell on these trucks when it comes to leveling/lifting/factory etc. I shouldnt have any problems with the nitto terra grappler mt's mounted on the factory wheels should I? These ones...
If there is any problem, it would be the side lugs touching the upper ball joint. Every tire is shaped a little different in that area. I would ask the shop to mount one and put it up front before balancing or anything to make sure it fits okay. If they rub, you could always stick a 1/4" spacer up front as a temp fix.
Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 838
Likes: 0
From: Owensboro, KY
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