Wheels & Tires Semi-Tech General discussion of wheels and tires for the Ford Ranger.

brake drums won't come off

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 10-30-2017
YehudiKhazar's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
brake drums won't come off

I went to get a safety done on my Ranger and it failed spectacularly. Two issues I can't confirm were a leaking seal on the passenger side rear axle and that the rear brakes need to be replaced.

So, my problem is that the drums won't come off. This is a 2007 Ranger Sport. We tried adjusting things, but attempting to take the drum off moves the entire axle. The wheel assembly spins just fine without contacting the brakes. I can't figure out how the mechanic got them off, if he did something to them or if he never got them off in the first place and they're trying to fleece me. Neither drum comes off. There IS a small hole to look at the brake pads through, and they are extremely thick from what I can see, so I'm less than trusting at this point.

Either way, I need those drums to come off, and I can find nothing on why they won't. We tried hammering the **** out of them and attached a puller; not even a micron of movement. It feels like they're still attached, but a cursory Google has shown nothing but videos of the drums coming off easily.
 
  #2  
Old 10-31-2017
CalebJ's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Roanoke, VA
Posts: 374
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Back the adjusters all the way off then try again.
 
  #3  
Old 10-31-2017
YehudiKhazar's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by fastpakr
Back the adjusters all the way off then try again.
Already did that. The drum turns freely without touching the pads at all. But it behaves like it is fused to the hub. We should be getting at least some play and we get zero.
 

Last edited by YehudiKhazar; 10-31-2017 at 06:22 AM.
  #4  
Old 10-31-2017
EaOutlaw's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Lake Worth
Posts: 647
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Install the lug nuts just far enough to protect the wheel studs, then smack the drum with a good size ball peen hammer as hard as you can at a flat spot close to the axle flange.

a couple of wacks the drum should come off, once you get it off , clean the loose rust from the axle mounting flange and the back side of the drum, once the r.pairs are complete coat the axle flange where the drum mounts with a little antiseize .

If this does not work soak the drum and wheel stud openings with penetrating oil.
 
  #5  
Old 10-31-2017
CalebJ's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Roanoke, VA
Posts: 374
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Hmm... It sounds like you did the obvious things I'd try. Penetrating spray against all of the lug nut studs so it hopefully sneaks in behind the drum face, then use a sledge on the face of the drum to break loose any corrosion between the inside drum face and the end of the axle shaft.
 
  #6  
Old 10-31-2017
YehudiKhazar's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by EaOutlaw
Install the lug nuts just far enough to protect the wheel studs, then smack the drum with a good size ball peen hammer as hard as you can at a flat spot close to the axle flange.

a couple of wacks the drum should come off, once you get it off , clean the loose rust from the axle mounting flange and the back side of the drum, once the r.pairs are complete coat the axle flange where the drum mounts with a little antiseize .

If this does not work soak the drum and wheel stud openings with penetrating oil.
We used a rubber mallet but were smashing on it hard and for a long time. We put a block of wood on the back and smashed that; nothing. One of the drums has large chips missing from it, so I'm reluctant to take a ball peen hammer to them when we still have absolutely zero play and it supposedly came off only a few days ago. If there is truly nothing else, then my only assumption at this point is that the mechanic did something to it, because as said, zero play and it behaves like it is fused to the hub.
 
  #7  
Old 10-31-2017
CalebJ's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Roanoke, VA
Posts: 374
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Forget the rubber mallet. You need solid metal to metal contact to break loose any corrosion. Do it directly on the flat face of the drum around the area where the lug studs protrude. You're not trying to hammer it off, you're using the sudden impact to break loose the rust. Also - wear safety glasses.
 
  #8  
Old 10-31-2017
YehudiKhazar's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by fastpakr
Forget the rubber mallet. You need solid metal to metal contact to break loose any corrosion. Do it directly on the flat face of the drum around the area where the lug studs protrude. You're not trying to hammer it off, you're using the sudden impact to break loose the rust. Also - wear safety glasses.
If you're correct about this, then the only thing that makes sense right now in regards to the safety is that the mechanic never took the drums off in the first place (or they were sabotaged).

Either way, can't do anything today.
 
  #9  
Old 10-31-2017
CalebJ's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Roanoke, VA
Posts: 374
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
From your description it certainly sounds like they didn't come off.
 
  #10  
Old 10-31-2017
EaOutlaw's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Lake Worth
Posts: 647
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Ranger Drums are super cheap, Like fastpakr mentioned you need a large ball peen hammer metal to metal contact ( normally one or two good smacks with all your power will pop them off easily).

Make sure you are standing up and in a position that gives you maximum power behind the hammer.

This is why I suggested installing the lugs nuts just far enough to protect the threads of the wheel studs. ( in case you miss )
 
  #11  
Old 10-31-2017
YehudiKhazar's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by EaOutlaw
Ranger Drums are super cheap, Like fastpakr mentioned you need a large ball peen hammer metal to metal contact ( normally one or two good smacks with all your power will pop them off easily).

Make sure you are standing up and in a position that gives you maximum power behind the hammer.

This is why I suggested installing the lugs nuts just far enough to protect the threads of the wheel studs. ( in case you miss )

I'll try to get more time with my guy and his garage ASAP and give her another go. I'm also an auto technician student at a trade school and my teacher has a red seal (Canadian federal certification), so I'm going to chat with him today. If I confirm that the mechanic never took them off I'm going to call up the shop and chew them out.

I'll update when I've given it another shot. Unfortunately the wifey works in the evenings when my guy is free and babysitters aren't always easy to come by. Ugh.
 
  #12  
Old 10-31-2017
EaOutlaw's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Lake Worth
Posts: 647
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
When giving a brake estimate it is normal to inspect the right side brakes since the right side wears faster most of the time, If your hammering away on the left rear he may not have removed it for the inspection.

Anything found bad on the right will also have to replaced on the left so most techs will not check all four wheels unless they have a lot of spare time or are doing other work that requires all the wheels to be removed.

Either way it sounds like you need some penetrating oil a large ball peen hammer a little patience and a bowl of Wheaties or can of spinach.
 
  #13  
Old 11-01-2017
YehudiKhazar's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by EaOutlaw
When giving a brake estimate it is normal to inspect the right side brakes since the right side wears faster most of the time, If your hammering away on the left rear he may not have removed it for the inspection.

Anything found bad on the right will also have to replaced on the left so most techs will not check all four wheels unless they have a lot of spare time or are doing other work that requires all the wheels to be removed.

Either way it sounds like you need some penetrating oil a large ball peen hammer a little patience and a bowl of Wheaties or can of spinach.
Both drums are seized. Neither was removed.
 
  #14  
Old 11-01-2017
Tsquare's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: xxx
Posts: 200
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 3 Posts
If they are seized then there is most likely other problems that need to be addressed. Drums are cheap. You need to use a heavy hammer to break the rust seal.
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
paganwars
General Ford Ranger Discussion
17
07-11-2011 04:29 PM
MikeDevo
General Ford Ranger Discussion
5
10-04-2010 03:56 PM
plowjockey
General Technical & Electrical
2
06-19-2010 05:00 PM
dodge_cowboy
Drivetrain Tech
16
08-16-2006 07:47 AM
dorf43
Drivetrain Tech
2
01-30-2006 06:03 PM



Quick Reply: brake drums won't come off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:07 PM.