can 33" BFG M/T fit on a stock suspension - no modifications?
#26
Well I figure with a 5 Spd 4.0 the hardest part will be getting them rolling, as it is now, Im always afraid I will burn the hell out of my clutch on hills now, and with 33" 's there will be more rubber to turn, just gotta learn my clutch much better I guess. As far as braking, I downshift alot to save pads. I got new rotors in feb, and they sill have the factory eching on them, which shows how much they aren't used. Also my brakes are very new and my pedle never seems to go to the floor, ever, I'll lock up before that happens , as far as lifts, I found new 2" spacers, and new 2" extended coil spings. I believe this will be enough clearance for 33" tires in the front. My spacing from my body is as continues:
< Bed Truck Hood >
6" > O < 6" 3" > O <-5" to well
Rear 8.5" Front 4"
Diagram is kinda confusing, but the O are my tires, and the measurements are to the wells, and the measurements below are from the top of the well to the top of the 28" tires I have on it now.
I don't know why my frontend is down so low, but it seems to be getting worse, the factory suspension may be giving out since it has been 11 years and 112,000 miles on rough terrian. I was wondering if the 2" spacers would be better or worse, than the 2" springs. I kinda think personally the springs would be better, and then I would have to get new shocks as well, correct?
Not a suspension expert... so Let me know what you guys think... I have a pic quick to attach to show the lean I have now, really I want it level, and the 33" 's to fill the wells, but be pratical and useful offroad, not tare up my body.
Thanks!
- Brian
Yeah it looks like the frontend has been slammed, I need to get it up and level!
< Bed Truck Hood >
6" > O < 6" 3" > O <-5" to well
Rear 8.5" Front 4"
Diagram is kinda confusing, but the O are my tires, and the measurements are to the wells, and the measurements below are from the top of the well to the top of the 28" tires I have on it now.
I don't know why my frontend is down so low, but it seems to be getting worse, the factory suspension may be giving out since it has been 11 years and 112,000 miles on rough terrian. I was wondering if the 2" spacers would be better or worse, than the 2" springs. I kinda think personally the springs would be better, and then I would have to get new shocks as well, correct?
Not a suspension expert... so Let me know what you guys think... I have a pic quick to attach to show the lean I have now, really I want it level, and the 33" 's to fill the wells, but be pratical and useful offroad, not tare up my body.
Thanks!
- Brian
Yeah it looks like the frontend has been slammed, I need to get it up and level!
#28
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Coal Region, MTC to be exact...heart of the coal region.
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old thread i know, i know...so sue me. is there any difference in the FXL2 and Edge suspension height wise? after seeing this i was sure on 33s for Sarahs edge but now that i look at it...the front seems awfully low. i guess my question is, is there a difference between a FXL2 and Edge height? i know spring rate comes into play somewhere. we are really set on some 33x10.50x15 BFG ATs...i know the best way is to test fit but i know of NO ONE with that particular size around here on a ranger BP :(
#30
Originally Posted by optikal illushun
old thread i know, i know...so sue me. is there any difference in the FXL2 and Edge suspension height wise? after seeing this i was sure on 33s for Sarahs edge but now that i look at it...the front seems awfully low. i guess my question is, is there a difference between a FXL2 and Edge height? i know spring rate comes into play somewhere. we are really set on some 33x10.50x15 BFG ATs...i know the best way is to test fit but i know of NO ONE with that particular size around here on a ranger BP :(
no difference
#32
"torsion bar" -- torsen's are differentials.
And Neil is correct. Front bars run from "F" type (4x2 Edge and some single cab 4x4) to "1" type. 1 is the strongest, highest rate bar and that's what Neil has.
I've broken this down many times so search for it anyone if you need it -- but Neil's code breaks down to: front spring is type "1" and rear leaf is type "C". I had weak type "F" front bars and something weaker than "C" (can't remember what) in the back. I made my own custom spring pack for the rear, and got type "B" bars for the front. Helped quite a bit on the elevation problem.
And Neil is correct. Front bars run from "F" type (4x2 Edge and some single cab 4x4) to "1" type. 1 is the strongest, highest rate bar and that's what Neil has.
I've broken this down many times so search for it anyone if you need it -- but Neil's code breaks down to: front spring is type "1" and rear leaf is type "C". I had weak type "F" front bars and something weaker than "C" (can't remember what) in the back. I made my own custom spring pack for the rear, and got type "B" bars for the front. Helped quite a bit on the elevation problem.
#33
yea, what he said....
got it John - torsion... like twisted springs
all good except this form torsion ouch
got it John - torsion... like twisted springs
all good except this form torsion ouch
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