F.O.R.D. (pics to come)
#26
I'm having an issue right now though. The transmission crossover is rusted out and the bushings are toast. It's over $100 bucks for a new one at the dealer and I really don't want to pay that right now. I've included pictures of the crossover.
1. Does anyone think I could reuse this crossover as it is? Would it be cost effective to have a weld shop weld some metal on to it?
2. Does anyone know a good place to get bushings? I saw these..
No results found for ‘rs1869p performance’ - Auto Parts Warehouse)
but i'm not sure if they will be the right ones. As you can see I've measured the crossover so in theory I should be able to pick out the right bushings for the job. So unless someone bestows upon me the missing knowledge of the bushings fairy, I will probably do just that. Or I will fashion my own bushings with more hockey pucks and a hole saw.
Regards
Patrick
#27
I might just order this considering the bad shape of my crossmember.
https://www.trademotion.com/memberse...iteid%3D215005
I have the time though so it's hard to justify if its possible that I run around for a couple days but it only costs me $50 instead of $100.
Of course if the dang thing still does not work then I will have wasted time and money. Hmmm.
https://www.trademotion.com/memberse...iteid%3D215005
I have the time though so it's hard to justify if its possible that I run around for a couple days but it only costs me $50 instead of $100.
Of course if the dang thing still does not work then I will have wasted time and money. Hmmm.
#28
i had this exact same problem, with the oil pump letting go and also with the different EGR styles on the new and old motor. i just swapped all the wiring and the exhaust manifold and all of my know to be good sensors from my old motor the the one i found. everything went pretty smooth. one problem i ran into with re-installing the motor was the oil filter got in the way when trying to get the motor back onto the mounts. If i could do it over i'd leave the filter off until the motor was installed. also check the motor mounts while the motor is out of the truck. they are much easier to replace now then when the motor is back in. good luck.
I'm thinking that I need to replace the lifter chamber gasket though.
#29
I did some more googling, (i've been doing a lot looking for this crossmember) and I found Mikestrucksalvage.com on another forum. I called him up and let him know exactly what I was looking for. He called me back promptly and let me know he had a "new looking" crossmember with the bolts! He gave me a very fair price and we did the transaction right there.
I'm excited!
I'm excited!
#31
Also, I started the truck today! It ran pretty good. I still need to bolt down the transmission to the crossmember, bolt back up the differential, secure the starter wires, bleed the clutch and fill the transmission.
Regards
Patrick
#32
Here are the photos of the crossmember I bought from Mikes truck salvage.
I have everything all set for the truck. Everything is bolted down and the motor is running. But I'm having trouble bleeding the clutch right now. I searched the forums and saw someone mention a how to but I could not find it.
However I think I read enough to try again. I'm either going to gravity bleed from the bleeder valve while my GF keeps the master full or I'm going to get a vacuum bleeder. Any advice is always appreciated.
Regards,
Patrick
I have everything all set for the truck. Everything is bolted down and the motor is running. But I'm having trouble bleeding the clutch right now. I searched the forums and saw someone mention a how to but I could not find it.
However I think I read enough to try again. I'm either going to gravity bleed from the bleeder valve while my GF keeps the master full or I'm going to get a vacuum bleeder. Any advice is always appreciated.
Regards,
Patrick
#34
You should have a bleader valve on your slave crack that open after someone pumps the clutch peddle a couple of times have them hold pressure on the peddle and crack the bleader valve open untill fluid/air flows from it tighten the valve and have the person in the cab pump the peddle again. Repeate untill no more air flowes from the valve it's just like bleading your brakes.
Oh and your old crossmember was tost!
Oh and your old crossmember was tost!
#35
I found a video on youtube on bleeding my clutch! I cut the hose to my master cylinder (when pulling out the engine, and I used a barbed connector to make a union) so I'm pretty sure after 2 hours of bleeding that I have air that I cannot get out without bench bleeding. So I'm just going to get a new master cylinder. Here is the video
YouTube - Ford Ranger & Mazda B-Series Pickup Clutch Hydraulic Release System Bleeding Procedures
YouTube - Ford Ranger & Mazda B-Series Pickup Clutch Hydraulic Release System Bleeding Procedures
#36
Finally! I had to pull my master cylinder off and stretch it out to bleed it. I had air deep in that was not coming out unless I did so. I also did not know that the master had to be completely stiff before hooking it up to the slave. The video on youtube taught me that.
I drove the truck today!! No power steering but I think I just need to add more fluid. I hope to have a clean truck picture soon!
Thanks everyone.
I drove the truck today!! No power steering but I think I just need to add more fluid. I hope to have a clean truck picture soon!
Thanks everyone.
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