Trying to change out the water pump, and theres 1 bolt that I cant get out because it's behind the idler pully assy. I cant figguer out how to get this assy off, it appears to part of the smog pump. Is there a trick to getting this bolt out with out pulling off everything from that side of the engine?

 

Got this from BassBoatCentral


The following reply was posted by cardrken:

This from service info, no pics.

Special Service Tool(s) Required :
Fan Clutch Holding Tool
Fan Clutch Nut Wrench

1. Disconnect battery ground cable and move out of way.
2. Drain cooling system.
3. Remove engine air cleaner outlet tube.
4. Remove two screws and fan guard if equipped. Remove four screws and fan shroud.
5. Lift belt tensioner by ROTATING it and remove accessory drive belts. CAUTION: Fan clutch has LEFT-HAND threads so nut must be turned CLOCKWISE for removal.
6. Loosen nut on fan clutch using Fan Clutch Holding Tool and Fan Clutch Nut Wrench and remove assembled fan blade and fan clutch.
7. Remove four bolts and water pump pulley.
8. Remove three bolts and remove Air Conditioning (A/C) compressor mounting bracket with assembled A/C compressor and power steering pump. Set off to one side making sure not to damage hoses.
9. Disconnect lower radiator hose from water pump.
10. Disconnect heater water hose from water pump.
11. Remove 11 water pump-to-engine attaching bolts. Note bolt location.
12. Remove pump assembly. Discard old gasket.


HTH

 

Welcome to R-F.

So sorry my extended weekend vacation prevented me from replying to your plea.

With that said, I've never seen a smog pump on a 3.0, so I can't help you there. The IDLER pulley should come off by simply removing its bolt. You'll find that bolt smack-dab in the center of the pulley itself, probably a 15mm. Turn it left to loosen and remove it. It's a LONG bolt, so keep turning.

If it's your TENSIONER that is in the way, it comes off by removing the bolt recessed in the center of the tensioner portion, which is NOT the center of the pulley this time, although you can remove the pulley the same as the idler.

I've heard that the compressor bracket prevents removal of ONE water pump bolt. I read a recent thread that describes grinding off a portion of the bracket so that bolt will come out.

I'll search for that and get back to ya, howzat?

Here ya go: http://www.rangerpowersports.com/for...d.php?t=188941

 

Thanks Earl. First off I want to apoligize for the rudeness of my post. I have reasons for it but theres no good excuse.

I did get the thing off. It's not realy that bad once you find all the bolts.

 

Good deal, Shawn and you are wlecome.

I felt your wrenching frustration through the LAN and posted inappropriate sarcasm. Sorry about that.

Never did find the bracket grinding thread either.

Hope you like it here. We're glad to have you on board.

 

I don't think I would modify anything anyway. The old pump has 189k miles on it, so wouldn't think I'd need to change one out for a while. There are 6 bolts that hold the power stearing pump/AC assembly on. 3 in the front, and 2 on the side that you can get at from the wheel well. If I were to have to do it again I'd probably have more time in removeing the gasket than anything else.

 

Hello Everyone.

I own a 1994 Ford Ranger XLT with the 3.0 V6 engine configuration. The water pump, to all appearances, is working fine. The problem is the annoyingly high pitched screech being emitted by the pump, possibly due to bearing damage. The noise lessens to some degree after about 10 miles on the road or when add anti-freeze to the reservoir. I replaced idle / tension pulleys and serpentine belt to eliminate these as possible culprits -the tension is correct on the belt and the power steering pulley is quiet.

Here's my dilemna: I need to locate the bolts on the bracket that secures the A/C and power steering pump. The bracket blocks access to two water pump bolts thereabouts between the 3 and 4 o'clock position facing the pump. I was able to remove the upper bolt facing the engine block and the two bolts located on the on the driver side opposite the fenderwell. To my understanding there are two (possibly three) bolts still pending removal.

1. Can anyone [please] specifically point out the placement of these bracket bolts.
2. Though I was expecting not to, will removing the radiator improve their visibility and accessability.

Taking the truck to the auto shop would be easier but is not an option due to financial difficulties. Truth is we've grown very fond of my old Ranger (me and the Mrs. refer to him as "Blue") on account of Blue helping put food on the table by hauling tools and carpentry equipment to side jobs I'm able to land.

I thank Earl43P and Shawn706 for their insight as well as Rick for welcoming me to this forum. Naturally, I'm new to this and with a bit of time will learn to properly navigate my way around and excercise the proper forum ettiquette.

Again, Thanks to all.