rebuilt and runnimg kind of
#26
A lighter valve isn't a bad thing, in fact, because they are lighter they become more efficient.
It takes less effort to open and close and is likely to cause less problems because of it.
IMHO.
And if the heads were so fragile that taking it off warped it enough to cause #2 to stick; I think that's reaching a bit.
Once you get the head off, I'm pretty sure you'll find it burned/damaged in some way that's causing it not to seal.
It takes less effort to open and close and is likely to cause less problems because of it.
IMHO.
And if the heads were so fragile that taking it off warped it enough to cause #2 to stick; I think that's reaching a bit.
Once you get the head off, I'm pretty sure you'll find it burned/damaged in some way that's causing it not to seal.
#27
#28
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
You can use different heads, i.e. flex fuel or different valve stem sizes, on either side, problem is when you sell it(next poor bastard) or go to get parts to work on it at some point down the road you go "oh shoot, that's right, the left head is different from the right"
The difference in power from each head shouldn't be a factor since that happens in all engines just in general.
Don't think you can warp a head by removing it or reinstalling it, they can only warp from heat, and lots of it.
The difference in power from each head shouldn't be a factor since that happens in all engines just in general.
Don't think you can warp a head by removing it or reinstalling it, they can only warp from heat, and lots of it.
#29
lol ron, i agree, but i would be replacing the head with the same part # head i replaced on the drivers side. thats why ive already ordered a head gasket and obtained a piece of glass with some 250 grit sand paper, i will reinspect the head and do a "home magniflux test" lol before i reinstall
#30
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
You can check a head or blocks flatness with a straight edge and light, see how much light can peak thru, some is OK but you can test with feeler gauge, .004" is OK.
Check width and length that would also show a warp
Not sure about magnafluxing a new head, could have cracks but would be a long shot
Check width and length that would also show a warp
Not sure about magnafluxing a new head, could have cracks but would be a long shot
#32
ok update
nothing obvious other than the intake valve is wet due to no fire to burn gas
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B5...d5ZmhnSTlXcE5B
i see no indication of a crack or a bad seal between the head and block
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B5...NnSURTZ0JkWWhz
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B5...dxcGpORmFvYWFv
ill take pics when all is cleaned up
nothing obvious other than the intake valve is wet due to no fire to burn gas
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B5...d5ZmhnSTlXcE5B
i see no indication of a crack or a bad seal between the head and block
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B5...NnSURTZ0JkWWhz
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B5...dxcGpORmFvYWFv
ill take pics when all is cleaned up
#33
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
#34
#35
What has to be done now is to check the valve seat seal on #2, a visual inspection isn't enough.
You use WD40 or even gas _ gas has a vey low viscosity and there will be leakage with anything, but gas will leak for sure.
Put the head between two chairs on your bench or on the floor with a mirror (a helper here comes in handy)
The underside of the head has to be facing down off course.
Pour gas into one of the healthy intake valves and note the rate of leakage, now do the same for the #2 intake.
I'm betting that the valve seat/valve face is not mating right and there will be a noticeable amount of gas coming through compared to the others.
Another concern is the amount of "rust" colour on the head itself on the one half.
The other side is black, which is normal, the rusty side indicates that water is getting in there where it shouldn't.
The head needs to be cleaned up and checked with a feeler gauge or Ron's light method for warpage.
If you can get more then .004 though gauge in there, then the head needs to be plained.
You use WD40 or even gas _ gas has a vey low viscosity and there will be leakage with anything, but gas will leak for sure.
Put the head between two chairs on your bench or on the floor with a mirror (a helper here comes in handy)
The underside of the head has to be facing down off course.
Pour gas into one of the healthy intake valves and note the rate of leakage, now do the same for the #2 intake.
I'm betting that the valve seat/valve face is not mating right and there will be a noticeable amount of gas coming through compared to the others.
Another concern is the amount of "rust" colour on the head itself on the one half.
The other side is black, which is normal, the rusty side indicates that water is getting in there where it shouldn't.
The head needs to be cleaned up and checked with a feeler gauge or Ron's light method for warpage.
If you can get more then .004 though gauge in there, then the head needs to be plained.
Last edited by Jeff R 1; 09-17-2016 at 12:50 PM.
#36
the rust you see is from straight water sitting in the lower side of the head on an off for over a month now. thank god for my trusty steed " the scooter"
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B5...piVGxid1o0WFk0
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B5...piVGxid1o0WFk0
Last edited by kobin; 09-17-2016 at 01:23 PM.
#40
There goes my theory.
More thinking...
Lets assume that the lifter is sticking on #2 intake and not allowing the intake valve to close.
That would certainly cause the "popping sound".
But then if it's not allowing the valve to close properly, then you should have low compression on that cylinder.
125 isn't up to spec, but it would be lower then that, if the valve was not able to close properly.
And that also doesn't account for the other cylinder too, it's not popping, but 125 is low too.
More thinking...
Lets assume that the lifter is sticking on #2 intake and not allowing the intake valve to close.
That would certainly cause the "popping sound".
But then if it's not allowing the valve to close properly, then you should have low compression on that cylinder.
125 isn't up to spec, but it would be lower then that, if the valve was not able to close properly.
And that also doesn't account for the other cylinder too, it's not popping, but 125 is low too.
#41
#42
If you have the valve spring compression tool I would remove the valve just to be sure.
I'd rather that be done so there is no doubt and then find that the problem is still there after the whole thing is back together.
The other way to check is to get some machinist blue.
Spread a then even film on the valve seat using your finger tip.
Insert the clean valve hard so it makes a noticeable "pock" sound.
Rotate the valve 1/4 turn clock wise and then back counter clock wise.
Carefully remove the valve with out touching the edge that came in contact with the seat.
The valve face should have a nice even coating of "Blue" on it.
It takes only a few minutes to do this and the valve spring compression tool is inexpensive.
I'd rather that be done so there is no doubt and then find that the problem is still there after the whole thing is back together.
The other way to check is to get some machinist blue.
Spread a then even film on the valve seat using your finger tip.
Insert the clean valve hard so it makes a noticeable "pock" sound.
Rotate the valve 1/4 turn clock wise and then back counter clock wise.
Carefully remove the valve with out touching the edge that came in contact with the seat.
The valve face should have a nice even coating of "Blue" on it.
It takes only a few minutes to do this and the valve spring compression tool is inexpensive.
#43
#44
Holly cow !
I think it would be cheaper to buy one, I don't remember paying that much for mine !
Here's what I was thinking, just for someone who was looking for a cheap one that's only going to be used once.
https://www.amazon.com/Unknown-50602...ing+compressor
I think it would be cheaper to buy one, I don't remember paying that much for mine !
Here's what I was thinking, just for someone who was looking for a cheap one that's only going to be used once.
https://www.amazon.com/Unknown-50602...ing+compressor
#46
new update
coated head, gasket and block with copper spray a gasket, reused all intake gaskets (sprayed them as well), torqued all to spec again.
left alternator off with alot of other stuff just to test fire to see if the pop was still there!
woooohooooo no pop so i will reinstall the rest of the stuff that i left off and see what it dose then!
coated head, gasket and block with copper spray a gasket, reused all intake gaskets (sprayed them as well), torqued all to spec again.
left alternator off with alot of other stuff just to test fire to see if the pop was still there!
woooohooooo no pop so i will reinstall the rest of the stuff that i left off and see what it dose then!
#47
#48
That's great to hear !
So what was ultimately the problem, a failed head gasket ?
Did you end up putting in a new/reconditioned head, or did you use your old one ?
In post 37 it looks like you ordered an new head.
I would be curios to take the old one into a machine shop and throw a straight edge on it.
Not knowing what was wrong would drive me nuts...
So what was ultimately the problem, a failed head gasket ?
Did you end up putting in a new/reconditioned head, or did you use your old one ?
In post 37 it looks like you ordered an new head.
I would be curios to take the old one into a machine shop and throw a straight edge on it.
Not knowing what was wrong would drive me nuts...
#49
#50
ok another up date
the popping is gone now and seams to be firing on all six cylinders. drove it two miles up the road to the store,all was well, more pep than its ever had! got to my turn in and it started surging like a top fuel dragster, get to the house and put it in park, and wow really a top fuel dragster till she died. she starts right back up but still the surge
she has sat for close to two months, i wouldnt think the gas went bad that fast
any thoughts?
the popping is gone now and seams to be firing on all six cylinders. drove it two miles up the road to the store,all was well, more pep than its ever had! got to my turn in and it started surging like a top fuel dragster, get to the house and put it in park, and wow really a top fuel dragster till she died. she starts right back up but still the surge
she has sat for close to two months, i wouldnt think the gas went bad that fast
any thoughts?