A lighter valve isn't a bad thing, in fact, because they are lighter they become more efficient.
It takes less effort to open and close and is likely to cause less problems because of it.
IMHO.

And if the heads were so fragile that taking it off warped it enough to cause #2 to stick; I think that's reaching a bit.
Once you get the head off, I'm pretty sure you'll find it burned/damaged in some way that's causing it not to seal.

 

ok another update

no rain: check
compression tester: check

ok i install and turn over and its not lookin good

cyl #1 150
cyl #2 125
cyl #3 125

which leads me to think a brand new head gasket is bad between cyl 2 and 3 or a crack but i dought it

opinions?

 

You can use different heads, i.e. flex fuel or different valve stem sizes, on either side, problem is when you sell it(next poor bastard) or go to get parts to work on it at some point down the road you go "oh shoot, that's right, the left head is different from the right"

The difference in power from each head shouldn't be a factor since that happens in all engines just in general.

Don't think you can warp a head by removing it or reinstalling it, they can only warp from heat, and lots of it.

 

lol ron, i agree, but i would be replacing the head with the same part # head i replaced on the drivers side. thats why ive already ordered a head gasket and obtained a piece of glass with some 250 grit sand paper, i will reinspect the head and do a "home magniflux test" lol before i reinstall

 

You can check a head or blocks flatness with a straight edge and light, see how much light can peak thru, some is OK but you can test with feeler gauge, .004" is OK.
Check width and length that would also show a warp

Not sure about magnafluxing a new head, could have cracks but would be a long shot

 

this would be on the old head, stick a strong magnet to it and add some really fine iron chips,and see where they land

did i say "ol school" ?

 

ok update

nothing obvious other than the intake valve is wet due to no fire to burn gas

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B5...d5ZmhnSTlXcE5B

i see no indication of a crack or a bad seal between the head and block

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B5...NnSURTZ0JkWWhz

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B5...dxcGpORmFvYWFv

ill take pics when all is cleaned up

 

You can't see a gasket breach on the head or block usually, pinch the metal ring on the head gasket and run fingers around it, you can usually feel a width difference if there was a breach.

 

yep the gasket felt ok for the most part and the block looks good. i have the copper spray a gasket that i will use on the intake gaskets. thinking of spraying the new head gasket for gp

 

What has to be done now is to check the valve seat seal on #2, a visual inspection isn't enough.
You use WD40 or even gas _ gas has a vey low viscosity and there will be leakage with anything, but gas will leak for sure.
Put the head between two chairs on your bench or on the floor with a mirror (a helper here comes in handy)
The underside of the head has to be facing down off course.
Pour gas into one of the healthy intake valves and note the rate of leakage, now do the same for the #2 intake.
I'm betting that the valve seat/valve face is not mating right and there will be a noticeable amount of gas coming through compared to the others.

Another concern is the amount of "rust" colour on the head itself on the one half.
The other side is black, which is normal, the rusty side indicates that water is getting in there where it shouldn't.
The head needs to be cleaned up and checked with a feeler gauge or Ron's light method for warpage.
If you can get more then .004 though gauge in there, then the head needs to be plained.

 

the rust you see is from straight water sitting in the lower side of the head on an off for over a month now. thank god for my trusty steed " the scooter"

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B5...piVGxid1o0WFk0

 

looks like another new head is in the works, im doin the gas test now! lol

$209 shipped verses $350 at the local machine shop to rebuild the old one

 

ok valve seats are not leaking, now on to the valve seals

 

hmmmm valve seals are not leaking either. re chase the threads for the head bolts and try again

 

There goes my theory.
More thinking...
Lets assume that the lifter is sticking on #2 intake and not allowing the intake valve to close.
That would certainly cause the "popping sound".
But then if it's not allowing the valve to close properly, then you should have low compression on that cylinder.

125 isn't up to spec, but it would be lower then that, if the valve was not able to close properly.
And that also doesn't account for the other cylinder too, it's not popping, but 125 is low too.

 

i agree jeff, using gas ,there should be a little leakage ,but none found on either the seat or seal. i will put it back together with a new head gasket after i chase the head bolt threads. fingers crossed it was just a rainy day gremlin!

 

If you have the valve spring compression tool I would remove the valve just to be sure.
I'd rather that be done so there is no doubt and then find that the problem is still there after the whole thing is back together.
The other way to check is to get some machinist blue.
Spread a then even film on the valve seat using your finger tip.
Insert the clean valve hard so it makes a noticeable "pock" sound.
Rotate the valve 1/4 turn clock wise and then back counter clock wise.
Carefully remove the valve with out touching the edge that came in contact with the seat.
The valve face should have a nice even coating of "Blue" on it.

It takes only a few minutes to do this and the valve spring compression tool is inexpensive.

 

lol checked the valve with prushion blue, valves and seats look good, valve spring compressor was $100 to rent, gona modify the intake to allow installation after push rods are in

 

Holly cow !
I think it would be cheaper to buy one, I don't remember paying that much for mine !

Here's what I was thinking, just for someone who was looking for a cheap one that's only going to be used once.

https://www.amazon.com/Unknown-50602...ing+compressor

 

oh it was refunded when i brought it back. now time to chase the threads and reinstall the head

 

new update

coated head, gasket and block with copper spray a gasket, reused all intake gaskets (sprayed them as well), torqued all to spec again.

left alternator off with alot of other stuff just to test fire to see if the pop was still there!

woooohooooo no pop so i will reinstall the rest of the stuff that i left off and see what it dose then!

 

woot woot all is back together now and she puuuurrrrs like a kitten! and wont go over 150 on my scanner or temp gauge with the a/c on max(no thermostat) reved up to 2500 rpm. im so happy

 

That's great to hear !
So what was ultimately the problem, a failed head gasket ?
Did you end up putting in a new/reconditioned head, or did you use your old one ?

In post 37 it looks like you ordered an new head.
I would be curios to take the old one into a machine shop and throw a straight edge on it.
Not knowing what was wrong would drive me nuts...

 

no new head, i used the old head, sprayed it, the block, and both sides of the new gasket,and reused the lower intake gaskets with the copper spray! not sure of the problem, most likely human error but i blame it on rainy day gremlins! LOL

 

ok another up date

the popping is gone now and seams to be firing on all six cylinders. drove it two miles up the road to the store,all was well, more pep than its ever had! got to my turn in and it started surging like a top fuel dragster, get to the house and put it in park, and wow really a top fuel dragster till she died. she starts right back up but still the surge

she has sat for close to two months, i wouldnt think the gas went bad that fast

any thoughts?