ok i got everything back together, looks nice, seeing my lil truck back together! go to fire her up and she starts! Whhhaaaaaaa the clouds part, the sun shines, then poof the clouds slam shut! pop pop pop pop wtf i think!

one cylinder is back firing though the intake ah hell no! i leave it running and start pulling wires one at a time to see if i can make it stop and whala its cylinder #2 hmmmm check manual again for correct plug wiring and all is good! so now i am baffled!

any ideas as to why?

 

Check firing order on coil pack
3 4
2 6
1 5
Front

Follow each wire back to cylinder, 5 6 4 side gets me every time


Compression test is next, check 1, 2, and 3
160psi would be expected

May be push rod or rocker is not aligned or tight, compression test would show that

Make sure each fuel injector wire is connected and tight

 

thanks for the quick reply ron! this is cylinder #2 that is popping. i got the drivers side right! lol

i disconnect the #2 plug wire and all is well other than running ruff from #2 not hooked up! popping is coming from intake! when i hook up#2 plug wire popping starts

 

That means intake valve is open, so either 2 is firing at the wrong time or rocker/push rod is not letting valve close

 

hmmmm ill pull rocker cover off tomorrow and check push rods! (pray i didn't bend one)!

hmmmmmmm cam syncro 180 out ?

 

just pulled valve cover off and rotated engine by hand all valves move as they should, pulled rockers and reseated push rods just to make sure got it all back together and fired her up and she still pops!

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B5...ZRNkxCWGZZWnhZ

 

What did #2 exhaust and intake rockers and push rods look and feel like.
Could you rotate the push rods with fingers when valves were closed?
You should be able to turn them, it is hard but they can be turned unless they are binding

Did both open fully, i.e. same travel as #1 or #3 valves?

A backfire out the intake, can be caused by Lean mix but that is only after engine has warmed up a bit.

You can test for this by disabling spark, unplug coil pack's 4 wire connector, then crank the engine a few times
Pull out #1 and #2 spark plugs compare fuel on the tips of the spark plugs, if #2 is drier then could be #2 injector is plugged up or ??

 

ugh typical florida! when it stops raining i will check connector on the injector maybe swap injector with cyl #1

 

ugh rain again ,but got the valve cover off the push rods rotated fine but stiff, not sure what to check next, swaped plug wires 1 & 6 still the pop, if the rain holds off my next move is swapping injectors, no knocking or rattles with plug wire unplugged, or plugged in

 

ok unplugged injector, alas no pop because no fuel! plugged the injector back in and popping is back. disconnected cam sensor and ran worse, hooked back up, disconnected maf amd idle went up as expected and still popps.

 

ok swapped injectors still the same popping! next dumb question, are intake and exhaust rocker arms the same? slowly narrowing it down

same question for pushrods.

if so maybe failed lifter?

 

A bad lifter would make allot of ticking racket. I've never heard of lifter failing open _ not allowing the valve to close.
You would hear it with #2 injector disconnected or connected.


I checked the lifter pre-load on my six chasing down my gremlin.
Go through one cylinder at a time, rotate the engine until the exhaust and intake are fully closed.
At this point there should be no play in the lifters, loosen the rocker pedestal bolts for both,.
Tighten down each one now and note how many turns of the bolt it takes to take up the slack until the pedestal is full tightened.
Go through the whole engine, they should be all the same pre-load.
Mine took 3 turns of the ratchet, so about 1.5 revolutions of the pedestal bolt.

Ron had you do the same test, but in a different fashion. The guy at my machine shop told me the pre-load procedure.

I read through the thread, did you take a compression test _ assuming that it's all good ??
Push rods are the same.
Probably the rockers too, but Ron would know for sure.

This is a major puzzle, it will be very interesting to find what in the hell is causing the popping.

EDIT:
Another thought, did someone goof when they ground the valves, a compression test would show that for sure ?

 

no work was done to the head itself jeff i just replaced the head gasket and bolts since i already had it tore that far down to replace the other head. i am going to get a compression tester after this tropical storm passes!

 

Tropical storm !
We sure could use some of that here _ the rain anyway _ it's extremely dry here _ the B.C. coast is turning into a tropical climate.

When you get your compression tester make sure the end of it is narrow enough to fit down into the spark plug hole, I had to grind mine down.
They're cheap and indispensable.

If no work was done on the head and nothing was checked, I would say (at this point) that there is something wrong with the valve(s) in #2.
The compression test will reveal all.

You've pretty much eliminated every thing else.

 

ok a update;

rain gone, check
compression tester, no money to buy one and the auto stores want a $100 deposit refundable upon return of tool

so i was thinking and investigating the net and somebody said to check cam sensor not 180 out
so i check it out and it is, its a BIG PITA with the intake on but i managed

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B5...5Pb0tFN2otLVpJ

the tool pointed the wrong way and not fully seated

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B5...N1T2xzSER4bVJB

tool pointing the right way and fully seated after removal.

crosssed fingers and turn the key
pop pop pop shut off and cuss alot

 

Well Fu..ck anyway !
My truck (probably for years) ran with the cam sensor more then 90 degrees out with no popping. Just really gutless with lots of pinging.
The cam sensor tells the computer when to squirt fuel into the engine, if it's not I right the fuel enters the intake manifold at the wrong time. When the intake valve opens the fuel in the manifold will gat sucked in, but it certainly won't be very efficient.

Can't really do anything with out a compression tester, I would loan you mine, but by the time the postage is paid, there and back, that would cover the cost of the tester.

 

What you can do is remove the upper and lower intake manifold (yeah I know, allot of work !)
You can clearly see the intake valves with a small flash light or bright trouble light.
Rotate the engine until #2 intake is fully closed and then spray a goodly amount of WD40 in there.
It should not leak out that fast.
I'm betting that it will.

Up here in Canada there are cheap testers for around 30 or 40 bucks.

https://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3612-C...ression+tester

 

lol Jeff im thinking of getting a new head/ gasket, depending on what i find out Friday when i get the compression tester! thinking that i can sell the engine when i put the 5.0 in it to help offset cost.

 

another question

i have seen the issue with the 2k + 3.0 valve seats. any known issues with 95 heads?
i am thinking burnt valve or sunken seat might cause this. thats why i am leaning towards a new head

and can get one for around $195 with 8mm valves

 

Crank position(CKP) sensor is used for spark and fuel injector timing.

Cam position sensor(CPS) was added for better emissions and to help with Sequential fuel injection.
Fuel injected engines ran fine for many years without a CPS.
The Mustangs used sequential fuel injection for many years with just the CKP sensor.

If CPS pulse/position doesn't match CKP pulse/position, the computer will ignore CPS and set a code saying CPS and CKP don't match.
On the 3.0l the CPS synchronizer also powers the oil pump, so if CPS pulse stops or is erratic computer will often not start or stall the engine.


In Mid-1999 the 3.0l got a new valve designs, they got 7mm stems, 1998 and older have 8mm stems, the Blocks were also drilled deeper to use longer head bolts, the threads are recessed in the block, that's how you can tell the difference.

In 1996 Rangers with 3.0l got Flex Fuel option, the heads are different but only in combustion chamber design.
You can run flex fuel heads on gas only, and you can run gas only heads on E85, so that won't matter.
BUT(big but)..........BOTH HEADS need to be the same, same valve stem size and same flex or gas only.

You can use any "set" of 3.0l Vulcan heads from 1986 to 2008, they will all fit and work fine.
Yes the 2004 to 2006 Ranger 3.0ls did have the wrong Valve seats installed, so I would avoid used 2003-2007 heads, if they are re-manufactured or "new" they they will be fine to use.

 

I'm assuming the newer valve stems were reduced in size to 7mm to make them lighter ?
Are the heads interchangeable from left/right right/left or is there a physical difference between left and right ?

 

from what ive seen on mine they are interchangeable and the one im looking at getting if needed only offers one part # for left and right

 

It would make sense, it would be more expensive for Ford to make individually left and right castings.
Both fitting left and right; they would only need one casting.


I didn't receive an answer from Ron, so that means he leaves me to assume that my questions were already answered.
So far that assumption fits with Ron...

 

lighter equals more speed allowed in the valve train but not always as strong or stronger

lol i want strength and durability im not building a race engine. its a daily driver with off road use on the weekends aka a play toy

 

my other mech buddy's got me to thinking that when i pulled the head it might have warped and caused the valves on #2 to stick just enough to cause it to pop like that