Cam question (other forum confused me)
#1
Cam question (other forum confused me)
ok so im buying the comp 410 cam. i was looking around on a couple other forums like rps and explorerforum. They are arguing about if you do or do not need to buy different length push rods and springs after instaling the cam. several guys said they did not do it everythings working great. summits web site says you can use it with ALL STOCK COMPONETS. Then there are the other people saying yes you have to have new push rods and springs. so some one please clear this up for me. not into wasting money if i dont need to on this project.
thanks
thanks
#3
#4
i e-mailed comp this morning, hope to hear back from them soon. im at least buying lifters and comp springs, i really dont care to have to wait on push rods though. since if i do need new one they will have to be made by smith i guess. im hoping this ends up being a weekend project after i get all my parts
#5
IMO it depends on what kind of rpms you want to spin it.
Also and OT a bit.. D said he found that the stock bottom end was good for about 5800rpms max. And with my stock 4.0L and a underdrive pulley I felt the motor was "dirty" right at about 5800 as well. (spun mine to 6200 as a trial)
So.. if the bottom end is stock.. I'd not count on rpms over 5800 and match the cam / valve train accordingly.
Rich
Also and OT a bit.. D said he found that the stock bottom end was good for about 5800rpms max. And with my stock 4.0L and a underdrive pulley I felt the motor was "dirty" right at about 5800 as well. (spun mine to 6200 as a trial)
So.. if the bottom end is stock.. I'd not count on rpms over 5800 and match the cam / valve train accordingly.
Rich
#7
IMO it depends on what kind of rpms you want to spin it.
Also and OT a bit.. D said he found that the stock bottom end was good for about 5800rpms max. And with my stock 4.0L and a underdrive pulley I felt the motor was "dirty" right at about 5800 as well. (spun mine to 6200 as a trial)
So.. if the bottom end is stock.. I'd not count on rpms over 5800 and match the cam / valve train accordingly.
Rich
Also and OT a bit.. D said he found that the stock bottom end was good for about 5800rpms max. And with my stock 4.0L and a underdrive pulley I felt the motor was "dirty" right at about 5800 as well. (spun mine to 6200 as a trial)
So.. if the bottom end is stock.. I'd not count on rpms over 5800 and match the cam / valve train accordingly.
Rich
#8
dont know yet, ill be doing that cam, port/polishing the heads, headers, and hopefully a tuner too at the same time or very soon after. maybe an underdrive (crank) pulley while im at it. ill let yall know
and anyone know about if im gonna need new pushrods? comp hasnt emailed me back.
ill go look on rps and see if i can find that guy saying he ran his truck with out new pushrods
and anyone know about if im gonna need new pushrods? comp hasnt emailed me back.
ill go look on rps and see if i can find that guy saying he ran his truck with out new pushrods
#10
Ok i was doing a lot of research when i got my free block about 2 weeks ago. the comp cam i would suggest the 422. the 410 cam is barely over stock from what i have found out. but what i found out was people are using the #988 springs and 5.5 inch long push rods. but you need different lenght push rods
How to build a 4.0 OHV for power, some limits and tips... - The Ranger Station Forums
read the first post in this thread and the first post only thats the best info
https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...r-rebuild.html
read though that thread he does the cam swap and has great info there
How to build a 4.0 OHV for power, some limits and tips... - The Ranger Station Forums
read the first post in this thread and the first post only thats the best info
https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...r-rebuild.html
read though that thread he does the cam swap and has great info there
#11
#12
Ok i was doing a lot of research when i got my free block about 2 weeks ago. the comp cam i would suggest the 422. the 410 cam is barely over stock from what i have found out. but what i found out was people are using the #988 springs and 5.5 inch long push rods. but you need different lenght push rods
How to build a 4.0 OHV for power, some limits and tips... - The Ranger Station Forums
read the first post in this thread and the first post only thats the best info
https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...r-rebuild.html
read though that thread he does the cam swap and has great info there
How to build a 4.0 OHV for power, some limits and tips... - The Ranger Station Forums
read the first post in this thread and the first post only thats the best info
https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...r-rebuild.html
read though that thread he does the cam swap and has great info there
i have already read both of those several times and also pm'd deathbypsi. but thank you for the links. now i can find those pages faster
so your building your engine?
#13
i was going to since i got a free block i was going to do cam heads head work header full exhaust bigger maf and throtle body and other stuff but once i looked at the numbers i was going to get i decided i wanted a v8. you cant get 250 rwhp with out spending about 5k and i can get over 500 rwhp with a 302 or 351 for that price and i can get 250 rwhp out of a v8 for around a grand or 2 at the most. i just didnt see the point of build a 4.0 other the wireing and keeping everything stock
#14
#16
oh and wait till friday night drags starts again at atl motor speedway. thats gonna be real fun.
#18
#21
alabama heads, 410 cam, headman headers and the x-cal should bring up my hp/torque plently. wish i could find out how much though.
i still gotta get a 4.10 gear, plus my tires are gettin worn down pretty good....... i hate not having a job. this is killing my wallet lol
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Both the 410 and 422 cams will move the torque curve up in the rpm range. You will not get "more" low rpm torque, rather you will get more torque at high rpm's, and thus more HP
I feel the lower end will be sacrificed for the higher torque curve, as it always is with a cam swap.
You mention time and money as a factor. Well, to build a halfway decent 4.0 engine will take a lot of time and money, then, you stil have to invest time to get it in the truck.. A swap will still occur, see.
For less than 1 k you could get a rolled V8 explorer, which would have all the parts you need. A stock v8 will out live, and, out power your built v6. Also, dollar for dollar, replacement and aftermarket parts are way better. You can get a whole set of 16 lifters for a v8 about anywhere for 200 bux. The 4.0 lifters are around 45.00 per lifter. And, don't think you will not need em.
If you are going to all the time and expense-to me it is a no brainer.
OH
My built 347 with x cam and 42lb injectors gets exactly 18 mpg hwy with 410 gears and 33's
. A properly tuned v8 will get excellent fuel economy if you keep your foot out of it.
I feel the lower end will be sacrificed for the higher torque curve, as it always is with a cam swap.
You mention time and money as a factor. Well, to build a halfway decent 4.0 engine will take a lot of time and money, then, you stil have to invest time to get it in the truck.. A swap will still occur, see.
For less than 1 k you could get a rolled V8 explorer, which would have all the parts you need. A stock v8 will out live, and, out power your built v6. Also, dollar for dollar, replacement and aftermarket parts are way better. You can get a whole set of 16 lifters for a v8 about anywhere for 200 bux. The 4.0 lifters are around 45.00 per lifter. And, don't think you will not need em.
If you are going to all the time and expense-to me it is a no brainer.
OH
My built 347 with x cam and 42lb injectors gets exactly 18 mpg hwy with 410 gears and 33's
. A properly tuned v8 will get excellent fuel economy if you keep your foot out of it.
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