ok i have a 2004 ford ranger 2.3 -5 speed with a 107,000 on it and the problem i.m having is that when i start the truck up no problem "let's say i run to the corner store or gas station and when i go to start it back up it just wants to cranks i can here the pump turn on everthing seems right but nothing happens until i turn the key a few times then it seems like its starting on the bottom end at times " i have replaced the fule filter ran great for a few days then it started doing it again . so i was told it might be fule pump relay maybe not sure anyone have same problem that can steer me in the right direction any help would be thankful-- shawn

 

Welcome to the forum

So cold start is not a problem, just warm start?

You could have a leaking injector.

When you turn on the key the fuel pump runs for 2 seconds, then shuts off, it won't run again until engine starts, RPMs above 400, or unless you turn the key off and on again to get another 2 seconds of run time.

Loss of fuel pressure should cause an issue on cold starts, but you say it seems to start up quickly cold.
Now a leaking injector does cause loss of fuel pressure and it can also flood a warm engine, cold engine likes extra fuel.

So do a couple of tests
Warm engine
Turn key on count to 3, turn key off, repeat 2 more times then try to start engine
If engine starts right up then check valve in fuel pump may be the issue.

Second test
Warm engine
Turn key on
Press gas pedal down all the way and hold it down
Try to start engine
It should NOT start or even fire
If it does then you have fuel leaking into engine

Clear Flooded Engine Routine
All fuel injection computers have this routine in the software
Key on, computer on, engine at 0 RPMs
Gas pedal to the floor, TPS(throttle position sensor) shows above 4.5volts, wide open throttle
Computer enters, Clear Flooded Engine Routine, it shuts off fuel injectors, spark is on

So when you crank the engine there should be no fuel present so no start
As soon as you let up on gas pedal or engine RPMs exceed 400 computer will turn on injectors.

One other thing to check if engine fires during this test, at the end of the fuel rail will be the Pulse Damper, it will have a vacuum hose attached, if diaphragm in Damper leaks, fuel will be sucked into engine and also flow into engine from pressure when engine is off.
Remove this vacuum hose and check it for fuel or fuel smell.

 

it will do it weather it is hot or cold

 

Then most likely you are losing fuel pressure.
Do the first test

If it starts up OK after key on/off a few times, and gas mileage seems OK, then check valve in fuel pump is failing.
Check valve is just a flap inside the pump that allows fuel to flow out but not back in, if it leaks then when truck sits fuel pressure drains away, back to the tank, and when you try to start engine there is not enough fuel.
Whole pump must be replaced, but this won't effect driving the truck, only starting

You can get a fuel pressure gauge to test this
2004 should have 65psi engine running and then stay above 45psi engine off, it will hold that pressure for a few months, not days or hours, months

 

dumb question i have to drop the tank then hu?

 

Yes, but pulling the bed off or sliding it backwards is easier if you have a helper.

You have to unhook the filler tube for either method.

The bed has 6 bolts and then you unplug the tail light wires.
No draining the tank needed, bed is not all that heavy but not something you want to do alone just to prevent dropping it and bending something.
All the hoses and wires are then accessible, disconnect them, pull out pump and replace it

Dropping the tank requires that you drain it as much as possible, pull off fuel filter hose and use jumper wire at fuel pump relay to pump out the gas.
Then unscrew the 2 tank straps, and remove crash shield if so equipped.
Tank strap bolts can be rusty, so loosen all 4 before removing.

Lower tank down and disconnect hoses and wiring from the top
Slide it out and replace pump
getting it back in can be tougher, almost need a helper for this part


But in either case I would test fuel pressure first, alot of work to replace a part that may not be the problem.

 

I have same issues, semi-new bosch pump (20k) checked it with forcing 90psi against output of fuel pressure and it wouldn't leak. Mine idles and runs at constant 64psi, when I turn off, it goes down to 20psi in 3 seconds. I get terrible mileage and piddle power. And the engine has 35k on it along with all components, so leaky fuel injectors maybe the problem, but such low mileage.

 

Test for leaking injector using Clear Flooded engine test
In above post

 

No dice, wouldn't start. Fuel damper wreads of no fuel.

 

Well pressure is going somewhere.

After engine is warmed up shut it down and pull off the air plenum(big tube from air filter) from the intake.
Open throttle and smell for gasoline smell, poormans leaking injector test.

There should be no smell of gasoline, when you shut off a fuel injected engine the injectors shut down before RPMs are at 0 so any fuel remaining in the intake would be sucked out of the intake as RPMs dropped to 0, engine is just basically an air pump.

The poor MPG would indicate a leak into the intake, check spark plugs for blackish Rich running.
Or an external fuel leak, check fittings at engine and at fuel filter.

Fuel pump check valve issue wouldn't effect MPG, since fuel is not lost it just flows back into the tank