Dumb luck front driveshaft find
#1
Dumb luck front driveshaft find
I've actually had this thing since like last summer. Never took it in from the shed to see how it matched up with the axle or the t-case.
I haven't checked the axle end, length or whatever, but the double-cardan joint bolts up to the t-case like it was made for it. It has about a 3" slip joint in the driveshaft which will probably be fine.
The guy that gave it to me at work pulled it out of a scrap pile that was going to be melted into new steel. He said he thought it was off a Dodge or something. I have not idea.
If you recognize this shaft let me know. It's probably the basis for my front shaft now.
I haven't checked the axle end, length or whatever, but the double-cardan joint bolts up to the t-case like it was made for it. It has about a 3" slip joint in the driveshaft which will probably be fine.
The guy that gave it to me at work pulled it out of a scrap pile that was going to be melted into new steel. He said he thought it was off a Dodge or something. I have not idea.
If you recognize this shaft let me know. It's probably the basis for my front shaft now.
#5
That's one of the main questions. Until I get the t-case mounted and so forth it's hard to tell. Well, having SOMETHING that bolts up is a start. Modifying a shaft is cheaper than building one from scratch. I think probably it's long enough -- but it's a total guess and wishful thinking, lol.
#8
I literally have no idea, lol. It fits. I'll figure out the rest later I suppose.
Well, I need to take that flange off and see how the u-joint fits up to the yoke on the D44. There are several yoke ends available for the 44 so it might just be I have to change yokes. I know they make those adapter u-joints with different sizes on the two cross axis.
Somebody school me here: is is best practice to put the double cardan up at the t-case? I'm surprised that on the Chevy axle it would be down at the diff. I can't remember which is supposed to be best.
Well, I need to take that flange off and see how the u-joint fits up to the yoke on the D44. There are several yoke ends available for the 44 so it might just be I have to change yokes. I know they make those adapter u-joints with different sizes on the two cross axis.
Somebody school me here: is is best practice to put the double cardan up at the t-case? I'm surprised that on the Chevy axle it would be down at the diff. I can't remember which is supposed to be best.
#9
#11
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I literally have no idea, lol. It fits. I'll figure out the rest later I suppose.
Well, I need to take that flange off and see how the u-joint fits up to the yoke on the D44. There are several yoke ends available for the 44 so it might just be I have to change yokes. I know they make those adapter u-joints with different sizes on the two cross axis.
Somebody school me here: is is best practice to put the double cardan up at the t-case? I'm surprised that on the Chevy axle it would be down at the diff. I can't remember which is supposed to be best.
Well, I need to take that flange off and see how the u-joint fits up to the yoke on the D44. There are several yoke ends available for the 44 so it might just be I have to change yokes. I know they make those adapter u-joints with different sizes on the two cross axis.
Somebody school me here: is is best practice to put the double cardan up at the t-case? I'm surprised that on the Chevy axle it would be down at the diff. I can't remember which is supposed to be best.
#12
Don't know if that's what it is or not, but that square flange doesn't match the holes on the rear driveshaft flange. I'm not sure if the front and rear flanges were different or not.
Okay, well it's going to mount with the double-cardan up top then for sure. I'll figure out the rest later. Still have to drop the tranny and change the tailshaft.
I ordered the rest of the stuff to make my 1.5" 1/4" wall DOM tie rod and track bar since the drag link came out so nice. I'll be doing the "tie rod flip" when I do it and mounting it on top, and dumping the drop pitman arm I just put on (mo' money, mo' money [wasted])...well, not wasted. The truck is such a pleasure to drive until I get the rest done it's worth the $65 or whatevr I spent on it.
#13
#15
Ha ha! Well, I've taken apart an A4LD for practice, and I have the ATSG manual on it, so we'll see...I also have the "shift improver" kit (which in the case of the 5Exxx is really more of a "remedial" kit) going in as well when I do it.
I'm nothing if not foolish...I mean BOLD -- I'm nothing if not bold, yeah, that's what I meant...
I'm nothing if not foolish...I mean BOLD -- I'm nothing if not bold, yeah, that's what I meant...
#17
#19
Obviously, depending on the geometry of the suspension, this may not be possible throughout the entire wheel travel. So, I would say that the angle should be optimized for the most common loaded static ride height.
#20
#21
To minimize vibration, a driveshaft with a conventional u-joint on one end and a constant velocity on the other should be installed like this, with a zero angle at the end with the conventional joint:
Obviously, depending on the geometry of the suspension, this may not be possible throughout the entire wheel travel. So, I would say that the angle should be optimized for the most common loaded static ride height.
Obviously, depending on the geometry of the suspension, this may not be possible throughout the entire wheel travel. So, I would say that the angle should be optimized for the most common loaded static ride height.
#23
#25
Pointless since I don't have the t-case in yet, lol. I have to drop the tranny and replace the tailshaft with one I "rescued" from an A4LD from an Exploder.
But as soon as I get a break in the weather I'm taking some days off and dropping that puppy, rebuilding it, modifying the exhaust, and putting it back in there. I already have a good rear 4x4 driveshaft. I'll probably sell the 4x2 rear driveshaft for whatever I can get for it. Anyone need an aluminum driveshaft for an extended cab 4x2?
But as soon as I get a break in the weather I'm taking some days off and dropping that puppy, rebuilding it, modifying the exhaust, and putting it back in there. I already have a good rear 4x4 driveshaft. I'll probably sell the 4x2 rear driveshaft for whatever I can get for it. Anyone need an aluminum driveshaft for an extended cab 4x2?