drivers side wheel squeal...... not the brakes!
#1
drivers side wheel squeal...... not the brakes!
ok, so, i have what sounds like something is metal on metal, i have looked but can not find. its a light squeal.... and it points out the fact that my drivers side rotor is warped. however, i dont get the pulling, or vibration, infact, the squeal goes away when i touch the brakes. any ideas? btw, the pads have like 10K left on them.
#4
what kinda money am i looking at for new wheel bearings? also, there is about 42K miles on the truck..... AND while on this subject, how easy/difficult are wheel bearings to replace? and, while im here, should I do both?
Also, why when I step on the brake does the squal go away? and why does it emphysize the fact that my drivers side rotor is warped?
Also, why when I step on the brake does the squal go away? and why does it emphysize the fact that my drivers side rotor is warped?
#5
I dunno what to say. I think it was 500 for ford to fix it for me. And i remember it was just sooo strange that my brakes squealed and i definately could stop them sometimes with brake pedal action. but i replaced the pads.
oh that reminds me, there is actually a grease applied to the backs of pads that stops the squealing noise(or tries to help).
two things, make sure your calipers actuall work when the brake is compressed. make sure they are adjusted properly.
the other thing, make sure your 4wd works. i was getting stuck in simple situations for 4wd and didnt even know
oh that reminds me, there is actually a grease applied to the backs of pads that stops the squealing noise(or tries to help).
two things, make sure your calipers actuall work when the brake is compressed. make sure they are adjusted properly.
the other thing, make sure your 4wd works. i was getting stuck in simple situations for 4wd and didnt even know
#6
Ok, I can answer all of this for you! Yes, finally something that has happened to me that I can share with everyone! Ok, heed my warnings... get he bearings replaced SOON. You will need to do both bearings (as they work best completely replaced on the spindle). Now, I will itemize everything you will need to do this job. I myself spent 2 hours in the Auto Hobby Shop on base doing this, but you can do it in your drive way.
TOOLS:
Some type of Punch set
flat head screw driver
NEW COTTER PIN - Must not forget this
Rubber mallet
something big enough to seat the bearing race in the spindle (big enough circumfrence which would be the same size as the race of the bearing).
Parts needed:
Outer Bearing + Race
Inner Bearing + Race
Rear Seal
Cotter pin as mentioned above.
HIGH TEMP Wheel bearing grease
I do believe that is all the tools.
As far as squealing stopping.... force is applied to the front brakes, which puts more weight on the front of the truck. This in turn MAKES those bearings that are broken, or about to break, start rolling, which stops the squealing.
I myself got VERY VERY lucky! I drove an extra 1600 Miles on mine before I replaced them, and I had 1/3 rollers left on the inner Bearing. The rest fell out when I popped off the rear seal. Nasty Nasty bad situation there. Now, make sure that when you PACK the wheel bearing grease in the wheel bearings that you fill them thourghly! Otherwise, they will seize up.
This job is not hard. moderate level - I'd say a 4 out of 10 on the difficulty meter.
TOOLS:
Some type of Punch set
flat head screw driver
NEW COTTER PIN - Must not forget this
Rubber mallet
something big enough to seat the bearing race in the spindle (big enough circumfrence which would be the same size as the race of the bearing).
Parts needed:
Outer Bearing + Race
Inner Bearing + Race
Rear Seal
Cotter pin as mentioned above.
HIGH TEMP Wheel bearing grease
I do believe that is all the tools.
As far as squealing stopping.... force is applied to the front brakes, which puts more weight on the front of the truck. This in turn MAKES those bearings that are broken, or about to break, start rolling, which stops the squealing.
I myself got VERY VERY lucky! I drove an extra 1600 Miles on mine before I replaced them, and I had 1/3 rollers left on the inner Bearing. The rest fell out when I popped off the rear seal. Nasty Nasty bad situation there. Now, make sure that when you PACK the wheel bearing grease in the wheel bearings that you fill them thourghly! Otherwise, they will seize up.
This job is not hard. moderate level - I'd say a 4 out of 10 on the difficulty meter.
#8
Originally Posted by Ranger_Guy15
This exact problem is happening to me. There is a sqealing coming from the tire, and whenever I brake, the squealing goes away.
Ok, read posts.... The fix is there. If you guys have any questions, I am here. Also, I used the Hayes manual for all repairs to my truck, so pick one up if you need extra know-how help.
I FORGOT - YOU MUST REPLACE THE RACES WITH THE BEARINGS!!!!!!! NEVER REUSE THE OLD RACES WITH NEW BEARINGS BECAUSE THE NEW RACES ARE MATCHED TO THE BEARINGS!!!!!!!!!!!!
#9
#11
Originally Posted by FMD
well i figured id rip it all apart and have all the new parts tomarrow, and then let my buddy art, whos a mechanic put it all back together
btw what am I looking at in parts?
btw what am I looking at in parts?
#14
#16
Originally Posted by 94greenmachine
ok, list of parts is listed above. Cost is like 7 bucks a bearing, and I think the rear seal is 14. I got mine from Napa, and the Races come with the bearings.
Sometimes the 4x4 knuckle seal goes dry and can cause squealing, especially at low speeds.
#17
Carrier bearing
ok, so, i have what sounds like something is metal on metal, i have looked but can not find. its a light squeal.... and it points out the fact that my drivers side rotor is warped. however, i dont get the pulling, or vibration, infact, the squeal goes away when i touch the brakes. any ideas? btw, the pads have like 10K left on them.
#18
ok, so, i have what sounds like something is metal on metal, i have looked but can not find. its a light squeal.... and it points out the fact that my drivers side rotor is warped. however, i dont get the pulling, or vibration, infact, the squeal goes away when i touch the brakes. any ideas? btw, the pads have like 10K left on them.
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