Sorry, I didn't realize what a terrible pun that was until it still wasn't too late.


Edit 11/2/14:

I added pictures below, they can better help explain (I hope)


Hi, I lost the key to my 97 Ford Ranger that I've had 10 years. In all this time, I never knew there was an alarm system.

I lost my key, so my 'helpful' neighbor bashed out the existing ignition cylinder.

Now, I can start it by turning the teeth down at the base of the cylinder-and I know it works because removing the anti-theft/fuel injection relay let's it start turning over when removed-but the alarm won't let it turn over, and without the relay powering the alarm, it won't inject fuel.

I simply can't afford anything-I bought a new ignition cylinder and it seemed to not even turn the teeth...

I JUST WANT to remove the anti-theft completely. Please help.

There WAS a thick wire with a small plastic piece (like a hearing-aid) affixed to the cylinder. I have lost it after trying to cut it to splice and short it (thinking it was the alarm). Now, it's just an exposed black, thicker wire. Before I cut it though, rubbing it against the cylinder did nothing. Does anyone even know what that little thing is?

There was also a black and green (each, there's 2) 18 (or so) gauge wires connecting to a small white plastic piece (looks like a phone hookup interface). I'm not sure that it was connected to anything, or what either were.

The rest of the wires coming up from the front all come through the column itself; they're the only two 'floating'.

I could really use help disengaging the alarm so I can just drive along without a key.

Thanks in advance (please help.)

also: It's a factory alarm-the red word 'theft' blinks. I disconnected the horn (imagine how quickly I learned to do THAT.), so now it will 'ding' on when I turn the teeth forward, play the radio, etc..., but just clicks because the alarm is stopping it from starting.

Again, I can take out the relay for the alarm, but then I get no fuel injection.

I really just want to KILL the alarm, literally if possible, so I can hop in and start her up with a screwdriver.

If there's any more info I can add to help you help me, please, by all means. I will be checking back here often in hopes of getting this thing to move.

I have back problems so I can't really walk far, or afford what it takes to have this fixed professionally.

Thanks..

 

Well it isn't a PATS(passive anti-theft system), that wasn't added to Rangers until 1998 model year.

But be happy, if it was PATS you would have to tow it to a Ford Deal to get computer reprogrammed with new keys and replacement "wand" on key cylinder, along with new cylinder.

If the horn went off then it may be a factory alarm, if siren was used then no, either dealer or car shop installed it.

If it is factory remove drivers kick panel and look for a dark Green/purple stripe wire, that is the Disable wire, if that wire is grounded alarm will be disabled.

If not factory then you will need to find the alarm module, get the name/model number from it and find the installation manual for it, so you can uninstall it

Not sure what you have done to key switch but outside of the PATS setup the key switch isn't part of most alarms, the ignition switch under the steering column can be spliced into with some alarms.
The key cylinder is connected to a bar, the bar is connected to a Slider in the ignition switch(under the steering column), when key is rotated the bar moves slider to make and break connections in the ignition switch

 

A call to your local lock smith would probably been cheaper at this point

Are you sure you got the correct replacement lock cylinder? If so, your helpful' neighbor may have damaged the rack and or housing.

Not sure by your description.

As RonD eluded the 97 did not have PATs. If installed with anti-theft, it uses a RAP module instead. This module controls the keyless entry as well as the factory alarm system. It does utilize an ignition tamper switch. It’s a sensor clip mounted within the key lock cylinder housing with a dark green with white stripe wire (coming from the module) and a black with white stripe wire (ground). It has a built in resistance of approximately 162 ohms. If the RAP module sees more than 210 or less than 120 ohms on this circuit the system will arm.

You will need to fix the key cylinder issue so it functions mechanically. I would also recommend replacing the ignition tamper switch so the RAP module will function properly.

However, to get things going temporarily, you can remove the starter interrupt relay (not the starter relay) and jump socket terminals 1 and 3 (red with lt blue and white with pink stripe wires). The relay is located in the IP relay box along with the power door lock, interior lamp, and battery saver relays Ref owners manual at this link on page 226 Click Link

For an in depth description of how the system works click this link Anti-theft system

 

Right, it isn't a PATS, it was factory, I concluded, considering that the dash board lit up with the word 'theft'...That said, yes, I was hoping there was a chance.

I'm going to run out and try your idea, thank you very much for taking time to respond.

I will return hopefully later today with success.

 

The locksmith 'couldn't' get a key for that model in years before the one after mine, and I was shocked to hear the dealership here in town say that there was no way to get a new one cut for it; it was too old. I spent 3 weeks looking for the key, and another 2 trying to pick and pull at replaceable parts to get at areas to even see what I was dealing with. Letting him bash out the ignition cylinder was indeed a bad idea, but I work with what I had-a neighbor willing to help. In truth, I'm fine with starting it with the screwdriver, I just need the damn alarm out.

Yes, I got the right replacement. It doesn't fit into a metal casing if the bottom half of it is shredded. It won't even stay in place, but sometimes barely, until I would turn the key, and hear/feel it slip on the teeth.

Being able to start it with a screwdriver is fine with me for now, I just want to get this alarm out/off/gone.

But thank you for the tips-I'm sure I'll be trying out anything/everything when I get my hands on it again today.

I guess I'm not clear on one thing:

when you say to jump two terminals- I don't understand why you're describing wire colors, because I'm picturing jumping the relay box itself.

You're saying to take out the starter interrupt relay, THEN jump sockets 1 and 3, but where? Please forgive my ignorance on the matter. I know of only two relay 'areas' to work with, but there aren't any wires showing-it's a panel for sliding relays in and out.. I'm confused on what to 'jump' and/or how.

Thanks again for the links and reply. I would have been more clear on the 'how's' of my problem, but I wanted to focus on just killing the alarm.

I'm not worried about keeping it intact. I can't afford otherwise right now and simply need something to move my body around, as walking can be quite painful.

Here's hoping the first idea works, but if not, I'll gladly accept clarification on any other ways to end the tyranny of my theft system. I had to unhook my horn, so it simply 'clicks' to let me know it won't start now (that, and it doesn't start.)

Well, I'll return with an update as soon as possible, hopefully by tonight.

Thanks again for your answers.

 

I got a key for a '94 Ranger made by taking the door lock out and dropping it off at a locksmith, $40 for 3 keys

Yeh, I know a little late now

Yes, Dealers only have the key/lock cutting info for 10 years, so back to 2004 this year, 2005 next year

You can pull the whole ignition key assembly out at a wrecking yard and then pull both door locks to install in yours, or take in your door locks and they can be recut to match new ignition key.

 

My concern with not replacing the lock cylinder and using a screwdriver is sooner or later someone is going to notice it and will either steal it or call the police. If you get pulled over and the police see the lock cylinder missing they’ll think it’s a stolen and your going to get the third degree.

The starter interrupt relay should be under the dash in the relay box. If your power door locks are working, listen for the relay clicking when you push the button. The owners manual shows the location on page 226.

To bypass the starter interrupt relay simply make a 4 inch jumper wire with spade terminals on either end. Remove the relay and throw it in the glove box. Insert one end of the jumper wire in the corresponding socket for terminal 1 and the other into terminal 3. I provided the color codes in case you weren’t sure which was terminal 1 and 3. If you look on page 19 of this link LINK it will show you a pictorial view of the relay socket pin out.

This should allow the truck to start. However, the theft light will still light up

 

Ron D.- yep. no more key, and it's too late. Thank you for affirming my discovery about having old keys made.

Rev- thanks again for replying, I appreciate your patience.

I understand your concern, and appreciate it. Luckily, where I live no one will be going near my truck. Not only that, getting the teeth to turn over isn't easy to figure out-I live in a small town.

On to business-I finally got a chance to go work on it today, so I'll try your method, if the simpler resetting method doesn't work first. I don't HAVE a new key to 'program' to it, so my hope is that it programs in nothing.

I do have a jumper, but I'm just curious. If this does start it up, do I have to leave it in then? If so, will it get hot. When I bought it, there was already a jumper across one of the larger relays, and whenever I remove it, I don't notice any changes..

I look forward to trying both today-Walking is becoming more painful every day.

I want to pick your brain quickly, if you'll indulge me.

Originally, affixed to the original ignition cylinder was a stray, thicker wire with a light green crescent-shaped piece of plastic. It seemed to slide into the cylinder itself via a copper slide to hold it on. Could THIS be the anti-theft?

You see, I tried cutting a few wired and shorting out the alarm-per another person's advice..So I cut it, tried it, and when I went to wire clamp it back together, I could NOT find the little green piece.

My ultimate goal would be to go doomsday on the damn theft system-and just KILL it.

But for now, I'll try this bypass method. Sorry for the delay in response, but this is a crippling issue that MUST be resolved by winter, or I'll be trapped in a basement all season.

Thanks again for answering, I'll check your links and hope for the best today.

 

"However, to get things going temporarily, you can remove the starter interrupt relay (not the starter relay) and jump socket terminals 1 and 3 (red with lt blue and white with pink stripe wires). "

This is where I get confused. What do you mean, 'wires'? aren't the socket terminals in the fuse box under the hood? I don't understand the wire reference.

But if I'm not mistaken, you're saying to put a jumper between 1 and 3 (two different sockets??) inside the relay box under my hood? Then don't I remove 1 and 3's relays?

You said to remove the one that is starter interrupt, I'll have to look at the diagram, but I suspect it's not 1 or 3...So I'm removing them too?

I'm sorry for the confusion, but I'm just trying to pick up what you're layin down.

I'm hoping soon to get outside and try to reset the alarm.

Again, I can take out the theft relay, but it's ALSO the fuel injection relay, so then it tries to turn over, pypassing the alarm's restraint, but fails to get gas into the engine (hence it being both to prevent theft, obviously).

SO, I'm going to take a look at the relay diagram, and look for what you said to (I believe it was starter interrupt, I'll check again). I'm still foggy on this jumping process, because for one you mentioned wires, and also because I don't get if you want me to take out relays 1 and 3 so I can insert the jumper, and if so, can I leave it that way?

It's decent outside, so as soon as my brother wakes up, I'll have him give me a 'jump'-my battery is about dead-and try out the first idea-resetting the alarm.

The process with going on and off for X second intervals-I'll take the info out with me.

If that doesn't work, I'll start exploring this second and slightly more confusing method of using a jumper between '1' and '3', and taking out the starter interrupt relay first.

Again, under the hood, in the same relay box I can take out the fuel injection/theft relay? like a 20 amp or so.. take out the 1st and 3rd, put in a the jumper between them, and I can turn over the engine? =/

please forgive my confusion. Also, anyone reading with ideas/tips, please don't hesitate to mention something. I'm in a really bad place with my truck being stuck. I can upload pictures, I think that will help. Unless 'you' understand which wire/piece I'm talking about that was connected to my ignition cylinder (the light green crescent moon). I need to know if I need that piece (please no 'duhs', there ARE things you can go without) is the alarm itself.

If so, can I just disconnect it at the other end?

I'm eager to hear any answers. The local dealer mentioned to 'ground out' the alarm, so I cut the stray wires in my steering column and tried to ground them all.

I DID hear a click at one point, as if it went off, but it still wouldn't turn over when I tried.

Guys, sorry for all the eye pain, but I'm desperate to get this truck moving. Walking is very painful for me, though I still do around the area..anyway..

Anyway I really need to get this thing moving. But in a way I can keep it moving, too; I can't have the alarm going off at a damn intersection and locking up... yikes.

So I'm calling out the powers that be here, Ranger owners/operators forum-wide. Help me out, could you?

I'll get some pics up, and try to re-iterate the situation if I have to.

Thanks all

 

Ok here goes:



Let's see..



So, this little guy was with another 2 set of a smaller, thinner gauge (green and black I believe), attached to what looks like a white phone jack hookup (other small white plastic part I'll upload.)

This one had a thin copper clip on it, so it could slide onto the end of the ignition cylinder, under the black sheathing.

NO idea what it is, and I called a parts store; their 'guy' had no idea..

Tomorrow the Ford parts dealer will be open, so I can call them and HOPE they can I.D. it by the number-the Advanced Auto here couldn't. *shrug*

But again, THIS part was loose with the other 2 aside from the banded group through the steering column. If anyone DOES recognize it, please, indulge me.

I'll get a couple more pix of the situation.

 

Now, here is the first:


Here you can see the 'other two' wires I was talking about, and the small white plastic piece on the end. I don't recall it being attached anywhere.

At the end of the knife *I turned it to light up for an arrow effect, heh*, you can see the small end of a wire (black). IT's the other end of the pic above, the part affixed to the ignition cylinder.

Now, here's my relay box:



you can see by looking the one is missing; I took out the theft/fuel injection relay to see if it would still turn.

There's that white jumper there, as I said I had one. The truck came this way, and I've left it there since. Ashamed to admit I haven't bothered looking up what that slot is. *kicks own shin*.

SO, there's pretty much all the info. Oh, one other thing, at the feet of the passenger side, there's a black box about the size of a cig pack hanging. Disconnecting it, however, did nothing for turning off/killing the alarm. Probably useless info, but maybe not, so I thought I'd add it.

So there you have it guys. I can't start it because the alarm won't turn off. It's factory, so I disconnected the horn for now. I CAN get power going by turning the teeth, and even turn it over after removing the 'theft/injection' relay, so I suspect killing/removing the alarm will do it.

If I KNEW that the first pic connected on the other end to something I could simply unplug to kill the alarm, that would be great, but I still don't even know WHAT it is.

So I'm asking anyone/everyone for insight. Winter's coming fast. Thank you so much for taking the time to read, and please speak up if you have clues.

 

The green and black wire is part of the ignition tamper switch. The other wires coming out of the yellow sheath is part of the air bag deployment system. Be very careful playing with those wires as you can set off the steering wheel air bag which can result in personal injury.


This is the wrong box for the starter interrupt relay. It should be under the dash somewhere by the steering column.

Click this link for your owners manual and look on page 226 CLICK THIS LINK

Once you locate this relay box, there will be several relays there. Look at that picture from your Owners Manuel to figure out which one to pull.

Once it out, look at the socket and compare it to the picture located on page 19 of this link CLICK THIS LINK

Insert your jumper wire between terminals 1 and 3 of the socket that the starter interrupt relay was removed from only.

If you have it correct the starter will turn and the engine should start.


On a side note, the white jumper shown in your picture appears to be jumping the terminals where the RABS resistor would normally be. It also looks like you're missing the 20 amp fuse for the fuel system/anti-theft system.

 

Ever wonder if we are helping someone steal a truck ??

 

The thought did cross my mind.

 

The thought had crossed my mind as well...Unfortunately these days all the information needed is readily available either online or on youtube. Additionally I would think if his intent was to steal this truck, he would have done a little more research and been a little more learned in the mechanical/electrical operations of the vehicle in question.

But ya never know...

 

=(

I'll post a pic of the registration?

I shouldn't be putting personal info up.

No, lol I wouldn't be that stupid. What ever you guys need for proof that doesn't violate my personal info is fine-I've had the thing for 10 years, and never once had a problem with this stupid alarm.

I've never had the ignition removed, either.

If I may get back on point-

I understand now what you mean-I'm jumping the circuit instead of letting the relay trigger a stop in the circuit.

As for the missing relay, yes, it's in my cupholder, presently. heh

When that one is out, I can get it to 'turn', but it's lacking the obvious fuel needed. I just wanted to try things..

Okay, so despite the wires you mentioned being a tamper switch, this jump should work?

I really hope so. My brother can finally give me a jump to have enough juice to try.

I wore most of the battery out trying to get past my stupid alarm.

----

Again, it's mine. Imagine my horror standing on a sidestreet to work on it as the alarm keeps going off. No one called the cops, though; my neighbors know me. One actually asked me to help her with her battery, assuming I 'knew things' because my hood was up. lol.

Okay, well thanks for the idea, I'll try using that jumper of mine under the hood for the spot inside the cab. I've taken it out before, and it didn't really cause problems.

In fact, for the longest time, I had to use it to get my window to roll up, as I had blown the relay many times due to a short in the door handle.

That truck and I have been through hell and back.

Well, thanks for the input, I truly hope one of these ideas works today.

I'm suspecting the first idea about 'resetting' the key won't work sans key. I was hoping it would just go to default, but I'm getting a gut feeling about it.

Either way, I'll jump it (hopefully shortly), and try both methods.

I'll happily report back my outcome, and thanks again.

P.S. And I'm OBVIOUSLY not using a proxy server, use google Earth. It's sitting right outside my house. I suppose now any ******* can come and steal it.

So as for ME being the bad guy here, look who just told the internet their truck can be driven without a key.

[/defensive mode] heh.

alright, here's hoping. Thanks again.

 

quick question: The second link has a warning saying:

NEVER PROBE POWER OR GROUND TO PINS 1 or 2 OF THESE RELAYS

That's not referring to what I'm doing, is it? But I'll look, and I think I see which two to 'jump'.

again, I'm guessing I have to remove both 1 and 3, right? Then just leave the jumper in?

Thanks in advance.


ETA: Also, the layout is different in the first link from the second. I'm guessing you mean module 3 from the first link, yes? It's the closest looking one and appears to be inside the cab as you mentioned. In the second link, there are a couple perpendicular to the others as opposed to a uniform layout.

What ARE the two sockets I should be jumping between? Sorry for the confusion, but I suspect you can see where I am having concerns.

I'll get a better look at mine-there's one on the left side of the steering wheel, but it's quite a larger layout than either link. I tried removing what I 'thought' was the theft relay, but it didn't stop it from honking incessantly and NOT starting. Yes, I've disconnected the horn for now.

I hope I can solve this riddle before the next couple of weeks start turning our planet to a frigid nightmare. Thank you for taking time to help.

 

Well as much as we like Rangers here I doubt the world at large would waste time stealing them and then try to make them run again, and a 1997 to boot.
They would part it out.

I was just saying "what if"
No offense was meant, and no proof required, by me anyway.

 

I would imagine probing those pins would set off the alarm.

 

what pins?

Are you referring to the advice I was given about jumping terminals 1 and 3?

At any rate, the alarm is and has been tripped; I haven't been able to kill it.

Yes, it's older, and not really worth much, but it's all I have.

 

I looked at the only fuse panel I could find inside the cab-it's to the left of the steering wheel, and has over 20 slots.

It doesn't match either of the ones in the diagram.

I'm losing hope. =(

 

The relay box you're looking for should be on the right side of the steering wheel under the dash next to the A/C box. You may have to pull the dash panel and plate below the steering column to find it. If your power door locks still work, listen for there relay clicking when you push the power door lock switch.

You will also need to reinstall the missing 20 amp fuse in the Power Distribution Box under hood for this to work.



Once you locate the relay box and have replaced the missing fuse. You'll need to verify which relay is the starter interrupt relay. You'll have to figure it out based on the picture from the owners manual on page 226. I cannot help you with this.

Once you know which is the starter interrupt relay, pull it out of its socket. Look and see if there are any terminal numbers either on the relay or on the socket. If not, your need to use a volt meter to back probe the socket and see which has 12 volts while trying to crank the engine. This will be terminal 3.

Look at the relay and see which terminal lines up with the socket terminal that had 12 volts on it. Mark the terminal on the relay as 3.

Now take a volt meter set to ohms and connect one lead to the terminal on the relay you marked as 3 and connect the other prob to the other terminals, one at a time until your meter reads continuity (less the 1 ohm). This will be terminal 1.

Now hold the relay back over the socket and mark the terminal where relay terminal 1 would go onto the socket.

Take your jumper wire and plug it into the terminal you found that had 12 volts while cranking (terminal 3) and into the one you marked as terminal 1.

Once this is done, try to start the truck normally. It should crank over and run.

Beyond this, if it still will not start and run, you'll need to take it to a shop.

 

Thank you for following up, sir. I appreciate your patience.

Yes, I have that relay temporarily removed to tinker with whether the theft was off. You see, with it out, the starter will at least turn over, but as you know, no fuel injects.

I simply removed it to see if I had shorted out the alarm.

I understand now that what I'm looking for isn't in either place I was looking-I will see how to get to the panel you mentioned above. I look forward to trying out your instruction; I'm afraid I simply can't get to it whenever I want, so I'll hope to try later today.

Too bad it's now and going to be winter. Last nice day was yesterday, it seems.

BTW, I don't have an ohm meter anymore. My neighbor might, but if I can't get my hands on this one, I should be able to deduce from schematics which are terminals 1 and 3? Or is the voltage indication a requirement to know which exactly to use?

Thank you again so much for taking time to help me. We live in a cold, selfish world, and despite my borderline fanaticism about getting this truck running, I'm finding very few who will take the time with such a complicated problem.

I will update as SOON as I can, after trying this.

I tried the other day, but a van was blocking in my hood, so I couldn't even jump it to get power to see if I was making progress. Ain't life grand. XD

Well, here's to ranger-forums, for being so helpful.

Again I apologize, I wish I could simply run out and try this, and report back now.

I will certainly return, however.

Cheers!

 

Hi Ron, I saw you were online, I have a question:

 

Where is this driver's side 'kick panel'? The links rev gave me were incorrect and I can't seem to find it.

To the left of my steering wheel, there's a grid for fuses (small ones) facing the door.

There's a small black box hanging from under my glove box that clicks when I try to start it. I looked up the number, and it said it was anti-theft. Removing it, though, didn't do anything to help.

I can't seem to find this wire to cut and ground. Could you please help me understand this?