errr CB raido issue
#1
#5
#7
Where's your ground for your radio?? As said above, it needs to be as short as possible. Mines a whopping 2" and it's got a ton of slack.
I don't know where your radio is located in the cab, but a place I've used for a ground is the bracket that the RCM bolts to. The RCM is under the plastic thing on the floor w/ the cupholders. This is a good ground location if your radio is in that general area.
Also, possibly move where you're taking power to a cigerette lighter or AC outlet.
I don't know where your radio is located in the cab, but a place I've used for a ground is the bracket that the RCM bolts to. The RCM is under the plastic thing on the floor w/ the cupholders. This is a good ground location if your radio is in that general area.
Also, possibly move where you're taking power to a cigerette lighter or AC outlet.
#8
Where's your ground for your radio?? As said above, it needs to be as short as possible. Mines a whopping 2" and it's got a ton of slack.
I don't know where your radio is located in he cab, but a place I've used for a ground is the bracket that the RCM bolts to. The RCM is under the plastic thing on the floor w/ the cupholders. This is a good ground location if your radio is in that general area.
Also, possibly move where you're taking power to a cigerette lighter or AC outlet.
I don't know where your radio is located in he cab, but a place I've used for a ground is the bracket that the RCM bolts to. The RCM is under the plastic thing on the floor w/ the cupholders. This is a good ground location if your radio is in that general area.
Also, possibly move where you're taking power to a cigerette lighter or AC outlet.
#11
Where your radio is located, is a PERFECT spot for the ground I suggested in my earlier post. Upon finding a pic for you, you don't even have to use a self tapper....there's a ground bolt already there. Just get the correct size ring terminal(1/4" I believe), crimp it on your ground wire, and bolt it in place. This area is under your shift bezel/cupholders or if you're an auto, it's under that goofy cubby thing on the floor.
(green bolt... green = ground)
Yes, you can route wiring under carpet.
#12
Other suggestions:
Toolbox mounted antennas SUCK in my experience. It's the whole reason I have the fender mount. Getting a good ground for the antenna was the main issue.
I noticed less interference when I moved the radio's positive from the battery to one of my constant hot cig lighters.
It's too late now, but like I said in the other thread, I use crimp on coax and antenna studs because they are highly suggested by all who deal with radios. Sure the screw on works okay, but eventually corrosion internally happens and that style stud/coax takes up alot of real estate.
Toolbox mounted antennas SUCK in my experience. It's the whole reason I have the fender mount. Getting a good ground for the antenna was the main issue.
I noticed less interference when I moved the radio's positive from the battery to one of my constant hot cig lighters.
It's too late now, but like I said in the other thread, I use crimp on coax and antenna studs because they are highly suggested by all who deal with radios. Sure the screw on works okay, but eventually corrosion internally happens and that style stud/coax takes up alot of real estate.
#13
That right there is thge problem that most jumps out at me. Your ground wire is probably 6 foot long. Find somewhere steel and use a self tapping screw and crimp on a small ring terminal. You want the shortest ground wire possible for your radio.
Where your radio is located, is a PERFECT spot for the ground I suggested in my earlier post. Upon finding a pic for you, you don't even have to use a self tapper....there's a ground bolt already there. Just get the correct size ring terminal(1/4" I believe), crimp it on your ground wire, and bolt it in place. This ,area is under your shift bezel/cupholders or if you're an auto, it's under that goofy cubby thing on the floor.
(green bolt... green = ground)
ill try it , and see what happens , i was hoping it wasnt how i had my antenna hooked up
Yes, you can route wiring under carpet.
Where your radio is located, is a PERFECT spot for the ground I suggested in my earlier post. Upon finding a pic for you, you don't even have to use a self tapper....there's a ground bolt already there. Just get the correct size ring terminal(1/4" I believe), crimp it on your ground wire, and bolt it in place. This ,area is under your shift bezel/cupholders or if you're an auto, it's under that goofy cubby thing on the floor.
(green bolt... green = ground)
ill try it , and see what happens , i was hoping it wasnt how i had my antenna hooked up
Yes, you can route wiring under carpet.
#14
Try that out yeah. It's an issue that needs resolved anyway. Shorter the ground for the radio, the better.
The antenna... I could barely get it tuned to the radio....the SWR. Thankfully I run FirestikII's that have an adjustable tip for tuning, but even then, I was about maxed out on adjustability on the antenna. This was back in the toolbox mount days.
The antenna... I could barely get it tuned to the radio....the SWR. Thankfully I run FirestikII's that have an adjustable tip for tuning, but even then, I was about maxed out on adjustability on the antenna. This was back in the toolbox mount days.
#15
Try that out yeah. It's an issue that needs resolved anyway. Shorter the ground for the radio, the better.
The antenna... I could barely get it tuned to the radio....the SWR. Thankfully I run FirestikII's that have an adjustable tip for tuning, but even then, I was about maxed out on adjustability on the antenna. This was back in the toolbox mount days.
The antenna... I could barely get it tuned to the radio....the SWR. Thankfully I run FirestikII's that have an adjustable tip for tuning, but even then, I was about maxed out on adjustability on the antenna. This was back in the toolbox mount days.
and im going to put it on my side panel , when i get somemore time
#17
Other suggestions:
Toolbox mounted antennas SUCK in my experience. It's the whole reason I have the fender mount. Getting a good ground for the antenna was the main issue.
I noticed less interference when I moved the radio's positive from the battery to one of my constant hot cig lighters.
It's too late now, but like I said in the other thread, I use crimp on coax and antenna studs because they are highly suggested by all who deal with radios. Sure the screw on works okay, but eventually corrosion internally happens and that style stud/coax takes up alot of real estate.
Toolbox mounted antennas SUCK in my experience. It's the whole reason I have the fender mount. Getting a good ground for the antenna was the main issue.
I noticed less interference when I moved the radio's positive from the battery to one of my constant hot cig lighters.
It's too late now, but like I said in the other thread, I use crimp on coax and antenna studs because they are highly suggested by all who deal with radios. Sure the screw on works okay, but eventually corrosion internally happens and that style stud/coax takes up alot of real estate.
#19
Run a wire from the one of the cb mounting screws (the ones on the side) to a ground. The negative power lead may be going to ground , but the radio chassis also needs to be grounded.
Years ago radio chassis began to be designed for either positive or negative grounded vehicles.
If you connect an ohmmeter between the radio frame and either power lead it will show infinite resistance.
With this isolated chassis and newer ignition systems , the noise problem has been amplified.
edit to add
I'll try to find the site again , from I believe was an Explorer forum , detailing the problem with wideband RF noise common to Fords from the fuel pump.
It showed how to construct a filter with parts from Radio Shack to help eliminate or at least allieviate the noise.
Years ago radio chassis began to be designed for either positive or negative grounded vehicles.
If you connect an ohmmeter between the radio frame and either power lead it will show infinite resistance.
With this isolated chassis and newer ignition systems , the noise problem has been amplified.
edit to add
I'll try to find the site again , from I believe was an Explorer forum , detailing the problem with wideband RF noise common to Fords from the fuel pump.
It showed how to construct a filter with parts from Radio Shack to help eliminate or at least allieviate the noise.
#22
Old Guy User…
iTrader: (12)
Noise is inherent to a CB because it is receiving AM Frequencies and everything electrical put out noise that is picked up on AM.
First, find out where the noise is coming from.
Start the truck, take the antenna connection off the rear of the radio, if the noise is gone then it is coming in the antenna, if the noise is still there it is coming in the power wires.
If it is antenna noise you will need to filter the noise at the source by adding power filters to each component that is causing noise.
Other than that there is not a lot you can do.
a) Add better grounding to the Antenna mount, maybe an added ground wire from the Mount to the Frame and get to bare metal.
b) Reroute the Coax
c) Move the antenna mounting location.
If it is coming in the power wires you have a few choices.
a) Re-route the power/ground wires going to the battery.
b) Add a DC Power Filter to both Power wires.
c) Add a capacitor across the speaker wires, reducing the response frequency and cutting down the noise.
d) Add an External Speaker with a Noise Suppression built in or switchable.
e) Twist the power wires together approximately 10 turns per foot and add a braided shield over both wire grounding the shield at the battery end only.
Remember these are theory ideas only, some work some of the time, some don’t work some of the time but all of them may not work at all; that is why it is called THEORY.
Luck,
First, find out where the noise is coming from.
Start the truck, take the antenna connection off the rear of the radio, if the noise is gone then it is coming in the antenna, if the noise is still there it is coming in the power wires.
If it is antenna noise you will need to filter the noise at the source by adding power filters to each component that is causing noise.
Other than that there is not a lot you can do.
a) Add better grounding to the Antenna mount, maybe an added ground wire from the Mount to the Frame and get to bare metal.
b) Reroute the Coax
c) Move the antenna mounting location.
If it is coming in the power wires you have a few choices.
a) Re-route the power/ground wires going to the battery.
b) Add a DC Power Filter to both Power wires.
c) Add a capacitor across the speaker wires, reducing the response frequency and cutting down the noise.
d) Add an External Speaker with a Noise Suppression built in or switchable.
e) Twist the power wires together approximately 10 turns per foot and add a braided shield over both wire grounding the shield at the battery end only.
Remember these are theory ideas only, some work some of the time, some don’t work some of the time but all of them may not work at all; that is why it is called THEORY.
Luck,
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